Another guy who bought my controller has now installed a Jeep 2015 GC pump on his landrover. I sent him this link, hopefully he will post how he plumbed it soon!

 

As the guy who just went thru the conversation I can tell you: 100% WORTH IT.

I'll detail it here. And answer questions as able.Regarding the project, I recommend the dodge/jeep (stellanis?) Pump, at least for Disco-1's.. it fits perfectly in front of the airbox, where the jack and chock normally live. It required a horn trim and I am going to trim up the hoses proper.. I left them long during the install.

It drives like a different wagon.. I opted for the manual potentiometer control, no more loading up that POS stock pump at low rpm during a city parallel parking expedition and now it has a nice heavy-centering feel on the freeway.. and each driver can adjust to their preference.

Here's a pic


More to follow..I gotta go make dinner.

 

Regarding the build, once I got all the fiddlybits sorted it was remarkably smooth (for a land rover project anyways).

In regard to the pump:

• The Stellanis pump (Jeep/Dodge) lays horizontally, thus it fits nicely. If I had to stand it vertically like the FoMoCo (volvo) pump things would have been tighter and it would have involved routing the air inlet directly out the side (like some snorkels).
• The 2015 Jeep (3.6L engine version) is what I used.
• You should connect with Mark at NMStec.ca to obtain a list of known-compatibles.
• This pump will *not* work without the power steering controller made by NMStec (https://www.nmstec.ca/product/psc/) or an equivalent. I know there are other combinations that work, but as I wrote up there^ NMStec's PSC *works* great.

Things to keep in mind when pump hunting:

• If you are stuck with eBay, like me (not many wreckers in my area), then you will ***NEED*** to look into the details of each potential pump.
• Look in the detailed description for the VIN number of the vehicle from which the pump was salvaged; DO NOT BUY ONE WITHOUT THE VIN INDICATED!
• Check the *actual* model it was in (I used https://www.vindecoderz.com for which you can just paste the VIN into the navigation bar, e.g.: https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check...RJFBG1FC129832)
  • *a metric ****etonne of listings target Dodge Durangos and other models ...and worse: other YEARS than indicated in the auction headline (trust me on this one).
  • The added benefit of this is that the VIN may be useful for CAN bus ID purposes (ask Mark for more about that).
• Try to find a pump that has the high-pressure line STILL ATTACHED...and ideally also has the harness pigtails as well. The benefits are obvious, even if you just using them for mockup and plan to make shiny new ones. Note the picture of the pump that I purchased

Regarding hydraulic lines:

• The high pressure line, it is a 3/8" steel tube and so if you have a stub of the original, just use a high pressure compression fitting (I can confirm this one fits perfectly, though I did not ultimately use it:
  Amazon
  Amazon
  )
• The specific details for the high pressure fitting (NOT the line which has a smaller OD) are indicated here: https://plews-edelmann.opticatonline...edelmann-92750
  • The relevant info: 11MM Male Captive "O" Ring x 18MM Male "O" Ring. The fitting has a larger OD than the actual line.
  • note: the closeup pic below shows the fitting without the O-ring..which is definitely necessary (unless you want to keep in the Land Rover tradition of marking your territory :-)
    

• Ultimately, for the high pressure hydraulic hose that connects the pump to the steering box, I had the local NAPA shop make it using standard farm-type compression fittings (again... 3/8 of an inch OD) mated directly to a high pressure hydraulic hose which then mated the other end to yet another compression fitting which sealed to the original hard line end attaching to the steering box.
  • here is a shot of the land rover shop manual page for the high pressure line:

• For the low pressure side, I left it unmolested.. it is still connecting to the stock reservoir (from the steering box).
• NOTE: I can almost guarantee the stock O-rings (high and low pressure) on the steering box are frigging toast.. The part numbers for them are RTC-4825 and RTC-4826.. they are sized differently, they look like this:
  
  
• The Jeep pump has two nipples, one large and one small.
  • I connected the large nipple to the large nipple on the stock reservoir. It requires a step down in size from 3/4" to 5/8" (man, I forgot to note that down, but I believe those are the correct sizes).
    • It's not high pressure, so any fittings and hoses that can live with the hydraulic fluid is fine.
  • I plugged the small nipple on the pump.

The reservoir:

• I rigged the crap outta this, and I ain't proud of it.. but I was in a bit of a hurry and I will likely come back later and craft a proper mount and maybe a new reservoir. :-P
• It is now mounted to the lower tub of the air filter box (the pre-filter side). I used a generic intake inlet (silicon) connector and it's hose clamps to affix it to the airbox. I drilled a hole in the hose clamp (where it is solid/not-slotted) and just used a flat head (chamfered shank) 1/4-20 bolt.

The wiring:

• Primary power: Because of last minute rushing, I did not obtain proper heavy gauge (8ga copper / 6ga aluminum) wire and instead improvised: I sacrificed a set of "copper coated aluminum" jumper cables and harvested the 6ga wire. Not my proudest moment but it works. So far, it has not been detectably warm to the touch.. if I notice any heat I will swap it out with copper welding wire. [NOTE: you can see the breaker mounted forward and above the pump, just behind the headlight area, in one of those pics below]
• I opted for a circuit breaker rather than fuse/fusible-link.. because of the load/current draw on startup and under heavy use, I doubled the fuse size (60 amp fuse/fusible-link) and when with a 120amp waterproof breaker (
  Amazon
  Amazon
  ).
• The canbus and 12 volt (switch/relay power) wires are ran into the cab through a convenient hole (complete with rubber grommet) right between the brake vacuum booster (that's next on the list to go, btw) and the clutch master cylinder.
• I opted for the potentiometer rather than automating via speed sensor (though I may change this as we get used to the pump and how best to tune it).. In my case, there is a perfect potentiometer mount hole just next to the dashboard dimmer switch (lower left side of the steering wheel).
• Currently (hah, pun) I am using the ABS fuse slot (the small 'control' one inside the cab, not the big pump one which is under the hood) for the switching power.
  • I used one of those jumper fuses, which allows a separate fuse for the 'new' circuit. I am using a 5 amp fuse for this.
  • The PSC (Power Steering Controller.. At least I hope thats what it stands for) is also powered off of this circuit..with a downstream 2 amp fuse to protect it.

Regarding the serpentine belt drive:

• I found a 7-rib belt that actually fits the system without adding a idler pulley! I will grab it's specs and add them here. A note on this: the waterpump seems to be getting plenty of traction with this belt but it only has contact from about 6 o'clock to about 10 o'clock.
• Because of the less than ideal contact surface for the waterpump I obtained an extra (original/stock) tensioner pulley and will use it as an idler ..by crafting a mount for it to replace the original pump pulley. [note: in this pic you can see the extra tensioner pulley dangling roughly where the pump pulley used to be] [note: the belt looks really close to rubbing on the far side of the waterpump pulley, in this pic... it's an optical illusion; they are not touching :-) ]

• Either of these cases, for the Disco-1 (with that pesky distributor) this opens up REFRESHINGLY easy access to the distributor. Bonus!

[update: the shortend serpentine belt is 66.2" (66.2 inches for the search engine) or 168.2 centimeters. I used this one, from autozone:

* i ran her hard on the freeway for about 60 miles yesterday; when I got to my destination I could smell just the slightest sent of glycol... and upon RTB I inspected the belt.. there was some slippage; the belt had the telltale marks on the smooth side. I recommend going a quarter to a half inch shorter or, as is proper: install an idler and keep the stock belt. I'll update this thread with that bit when I do.

Regarding the actual mounting of the pump:

• I used one of the rubber and metal-sleeve mounts that came with the stock brackets as a pedestal mount on the bottom of the unit and drilled a hole in the webbing (right under then air inlet horn) for it to "grommet" into.
• I used the stock twin-mount with it's rubber and metal-sleeve mounts for the stabilizing mount.
  • This was attached to a modified stock bracket (I bent it in a vise to get the desired angle) which came with the pump.
    • I attached this under the front airbox mount and bolted it to the inner fender (see pics)
      

Unfortunately landroverforums does not allow video, elsewise I'd upload a snippet of it in action.

Regarding noise:

• When the engine is running, this thing is completely silent
• When the engine is not running and the hood is closed:
  • Full speed (95-100%) is audible outside the car but it is not loud.. it is very muted
  • Min speed (5-40%) is not audible outside or inside the car
• When the engine is not running and the hood is open:
  • Full speed (95-100%) is very audible outside the car but it is not loud
  • Min speed (5-40%) is audible outside but is muted

Thoughts on drivability:

• I cannot tell you enough, how much of a pleasure it is driving the Disco now.
• The power steering has ***ALWAYS*** been the bane of this wagon (not a truck, not a car...a true "Station Wagon" of the post-railway era).
• I am not familiar with the Disco-2 in this manner but I know the D1 was a polished middle class wagon when it came out, but it's pretty old school..and it drives like it.
• The complete lack of engine idle-loading when parallel parking is still taking some getting used-to!
  • Our disco is manual, not a slushbox, so the parking and low speed full-stop turning has the added challenge of not killing the engine (especially when its up at operating temps).
• It is now alarmingly (and refreshingly) mundane in town!
  • I cannot be the only Disco driver who has glanced around the sidewalks prior to slotting into a street parking spot... to avoid startling passersby with the power steering pump's banshee cry of anguish!
    • Now: no muss no fuss.
• On the highway:
  • Wow!
  • The ability to dampen the steering boost on-the-fly at highway speeds is *GREAT*! Now I can roll the boost back and the steering has this nice centered heaviness that is just perfect. No more flighty darting about the ruts.
  • As bad as the stock pump is at low engine rpm and low speeds.. it is an overboosting idiot at highway rpm and speeds. It's like Rover did it on purpose, just because.. like to stay up with the Lucas boys or something.
  • Our Disco has the emu ~1-3/4" lift and shocks and the bulletproof RoverTym steering links/draglink etc. It also has a rack (of course) and a winch, so it's slightly heavier than stock.

In conclusion: This conversion breathed new life into a vehicle that I was finding harder and harder to justify. Not any more; it's actually a pleasure to drive. If any of you are in the North Carolina (triangle) area and would like to experience it first hand, just DM me.

*I am curious to see if it picks up any economy or power; does anyone know how much parasitic loss was pulled by the original pump?

 

Just looking at the pump itself and searching through 2015 Jeep (there are Wranglers, Cherokees, etc. with the 3.6L), there are several similar.

Edit:
I did find this for 2014-2015 GC (they do also say Durango), and it looks pretty much identical ($240 new on this site, but certainly can find elsewhere...just a link I found to one that matches as new). -> https://carpartsdirectstore.com/prod...5ece1e3e&_ss=r

Edit2:
Removing irrelevant (for now) information on earlier models; looks like NMStec is getting one and seeing if he can support it.
Used prices aren't much less than new and it is a bit of challenge to find them with VIN in the listing (Ebay)

--bjay

 

Sorry guys, my website got hacked. I will have that resolved in the next hour.

the 2011-2013 Cherokee pumps have different can messages it turns out, I am just waiting on one to arrive for me to reverse engineer and add support.
Recommend 2015 only at this point in time, or a dodge charger pump. They are the same unit, just different part number

 

The years have different CAN bus tests.. You need to really be specific in the model, like I said up there ^ only buy it if you can get the VIN (IMO). I am not sure how buying a new one plays out. But if you are buying used... only get one that has a VIN and double check the VIN.. and sync up with Mark at NMStec to confirm he has that model covered.

 

"2014-2015 GC (they do also say Durango), and it looks pretty much identical"
Physically the are identical.. digitally they are not.

"looks like NMStec is getting one and seeing if he can support it"
It's more involved than 'seeing if he can support it' but that seems to basically be how it works: Its the only authentic way to do it: study the device, make your stuff compatible with it :-) That's a quality method right there.

"Used prices aren't much less than new and it is a bit of challenge to find them with VIN in the listing (Ebay)"
I found the used prices to be about 1/4 to 1/2 of the new (or reman) units. Also, I found many units with VIN on ebay. It took me a while to get the hang of it, but I got pretty fast at scanning through the listings for the relevant detail. Getting that VIN is the way to go, IMO. I didn't go the "new" route and I have no idea how new units stack up on the CAN bus stuff. Let us know if you go that route and how it works out! :-)

 

Website is back to the land of the living! sorry for the downtime. Plugin on website refused to update and had critical vuln.

Sorry for the downtime/Scam redirect – NMStec

 

In my research when doing my electric fan conversion, it seemed fairly standard that an engine driven power steering pump can drain 2-6 horsepower depending on its use, so I'd bet you'll see at least a little bit of a difference.

Also, wanted to say thanks for posting all the info you did, nicely done, and greatly appreciated!

Are these the correct P/N's?
Jeep - 5154662AC
Charger - 68059524AL

And Thanks NMStec for doing all this, I'll be buying one of your controllers as soon as I can afford to do this swap, for sure!

 

Any time!

5154662AC Does appear to be correct 14-15
68059524AL Is for sure supported!

In regards to horsepower we did this test on our drift LQ4 S13 car. The obvious things that can affect the numbers I will provide are: Tiny rack, large steering angle as its a drift car, 275 front tires, 8-10* camber.
On the dyno with the stock GM LQ4 power steering pump at 6k RPM with steering at full lock, we ran at 305whp. After removing the pump, we ran at 349whp, with the peak actually pulling back by 800rpm. These numbers are WCF, at 180m above sea level, 8*c ambient.

This is an extreme case test, but this is what we needed to figure out for that specific car. I doubt you guys would see drastic power difference, or fuel economy drop, but I am sure there will be a visible difference. The faster the engine spins, the more the pump is likely to cavitate, causing parasitic drag.

The car in question: https://www.nmstec.ca/2023/04/08/s13-lq4-drift-car/