Another Denver peep!

...Why i did not notice this sooner..

 

A land rover with 666 on the plate seems right

 

Basically, l feeling the same way about CVS...ever since they stopped selling tobacco products...they're purely the devil. Walked in there to buy some Black & Mild cigars...and they said they don't sell them anymore. So now, besides the stinking government telling us what and what we can not do...the private sector is getting in on the communist act.

Rant over...lol.

​​​​​​​ Brian.

 

that chirping you hear is most likely the sound of dry front driveshaft U-joint bearings about to fly apart. They commonly make a chirping noise at low speeds just before they fail. I recommend you stop driving the truck until such time as you get it out, inspected and or get it repaired because failure is catastrophic destroying the transmission and the transfer case. They can be rebuilt with new U joints or you can buy an entire front drive shaft for around $100 online.

you may want to you may want to do a search on front drive shaft on the forums, but again I strongly recommend you stop driving it immediately.

 

I don't think the chirping is the front drive shaft as I replaced it with a Lucky8 shaft just two months ago.

Another minor issue I've been having is the horn fuse keeps blowing. I have replaced engine compartment fuse #16 three times now. Yesterday I actually noticed when it happened as I set off the alarm, heard two honks and then just flashing lights and no horn. I don't know if that eliminates the horn buttons or rotary coupler as the problem.

My cruise control also does not work, which I understand can be related. So maybe it is the rotary coupler?

 

Last weekend I replaced the idlers, tensioner, and serpentine belt. There is a high pitched whine that quietly shows up around 70 mph, but changing those things didn't fix it. I'll overhaul the bearings in the old idlers and keeps them as spares, and carry the old belt as an emergency backup.

Today I rebuilt the driver door lock actuator. Since I bought the truck, on the driver door I've only been able manually lock-unlock using the key, or superlock via the fob. Regular fob lock-unlock function on the driver door did not work, but it did on all the other doors and the gate. There are two 12V motors in the lock actuator--one for lock/unlock, and one for superlock. In my case the culprit was the first motor, which had brushes that were chewed up from a badly manufactured commutator. The inside was covered in graphite.

After years of daily key use, I feared that the lock pin in the door handle was going to break any day now--supposedly this happens in these trucks. So I took out the door lock actuator and rebuilt it with a new Mabuchi motor, and replaced the door handle lock pin with a CARRS4X4 stainless version.

Next weekend: brakes.