Looks like you found your leak. You can bypass the throttle body heater, been covered on this forum over and over, and YES get rid of the dexcool.

 

I changed the transmission filter and fluid yesterday. Used Castrol Transmax Dex/Merc. It took about 5.4 quarts, with the front wheels up on ramps, so the level is probably slightly high. While I was under there, I noticed some engine oil on one of the engine sump bolts. For some reason I didn't think to clean it off so see how quickly it returns. I did take a couple pictures, though:


looking up from beneath engine

looking up from beneath transmission

No evidence of leaking above the sump. No significant oil loss.

Also, one of my front chassis cross member bolts is missing on the passenger side, so I need to replace that.

 

 

You have to check the trans level on level ground, engine running, after cycling through the gears. Scary as hell, chock the wheels, set the emergency brake.

Also, you might want to check the main cross bolt to see if your drop of oil is from there.

 

^^^THIS.
If you didn't fill the transmission with the engine running, you're actually way low. The correct procedure is well documented in the RAVE and also all over this forum.

 

Hey folks, I followed the RAVE procedure. I filled the sump to the fill port, started the engine, ran through the gears, and topped it off with the engine running. I actually ran through the gears a second time and topped off once more. I did this all up on the ramps.

I just assumed that since the fill hole is at the front of the sump and the front wheels were off the ground about 6.5" that the sump oil level is a bit higher than it would have been if I did the procedure on level ground. I can't imagine having a small amount of extra fluid is going to be a problem. I can get back under there on level ground and drain some fluid out of the fill port, but I don't know how I would have fit my gallon jug and pump underneath the truck without the ramps.

I'll be back under there next weekend to change the oil again for the colder temp. This morning it was 26F and the engine did not want to turn over very easily with the 15w40. Oh well, I'll install my Fumoto drain valve while I'm at it, that should make these oil changes a little cleaner and easier.

 

That trans fluid change is right on the money. Except that it needs to be done on flat, level surface. Nice rig.

 

Picked up a couple of gallons of Rotella T6 5w40 to fill this weekend. There's a rebate right now for $7 off each gallon.

I don't think my heated windscreen is working properly, or at least it didn't noticeably melt any ice this morning. I checked the 40A fuses in the engine compartment, but they were both OK. I guess the next step is to remove the air intake plenum so I can look at the multiplugs for the screen. It's a bummer because I think that's a really cool feature. I will likely replace the screen with another heated one if it's toast.

The driver side heated seat wasn't warming, either - need to look into that. And then I need to install a new throttle body heater gasket.

I guess I've reached the point where I need to make a list for these things. It was inevitable.

I think I will change the title of this thread, as it is no longer about purchasing a truck and has become a project thread.

 

You can see the windscreen plugs just by raising the hood, located below the windshield plenum in the corners. My guess is you have a fuse or relay problem.

 

Yesterday I installed a new throttle body heater and a new throttle body gasket. That should solve my slow coolant leak.

I used a thin film of ultra blue RTV on the new throttle heater gasket in the hope that it will not leak again. I cleaned and scraped the dried dexcool gunk off the rocker cover so I will be able to tell if the throttle heater leaks again.

I removed the wheels on driver side and inspected the front and rear brake pads and rotors - they looked good. I'm going to bleed the brakes, though, as I just rolled past 60k and I don't know the last time it was done.

There's a mystery chirp coming from the wheels. It's noticeable at slow speeds, as it seems to be once every rotation of the wheel. I can't yet tell if it is all four wheels chirping or just the front wheels. It's not something I can hear in the cabin, but I can hear it with the windows down when driving alongside a wall.

There's a bit of a high pitch whine quietly audible during acceleration on the freeway, as well. I'm going to take off the belt and check the pulleys and idlers.

My permanent plates arrived:

randomly assigned -- you can't request this