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got my amigo codes.. want to make sure i am doing the right fix

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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #11  
RoverRookie's Avatar
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Thanks Mike and GA, actually the squeak comes from the rear brakes and yes I do feel the ABS kick in. Out - RR.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 01:56 PM
  #12  
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So, fix the squeak, then get someone to clear your codes, drive it and see if anything comes back.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 02:43 PM
  #13  
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Thanks Big Mike........will do! Ciao - RR.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #14  
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well back to my issues..lol..

The hub seems to have no play in it all. I jacked up the front and there was no wiggle or play in it what so ever.

I pull the connections for the ABS sensor and am showing an open circuit on the right front. (The front left shows about 1000 ohms so i guess i was checking it right.) I traced all the wires to the right hand sensor and they seemed to be ok with no damage to them, so i can only assume the sensor has failed. and with that i ordered a new one yesterday.

As for the shuttle valve what do you guys think is chances of me needing to replace this part from Falcon works (click me) or is it more likely to be fixed by doing option B on this link (click me) "ABS MODULATOR ELECTRICAL FAULT REPAIR"

Perhaps the question i should ask is... should i get the Falcon repair kit before i tear into this ABS unit or is there a way to tell which problem is likely to be before take it all apart? What is the more common problem of the two with the unit?

Again thanks for all the help on this. I'm in a bind as cannot get the Discovery to pass the emissions with all this going on so cannot register it, along with my job right now i only get to work on it at the weekends so really need to get all my ducks in a row before i start to take things apart so i can drive the darn thing!

Cheers
Dave
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #15  
Disco Mike's Avatar
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You might read Josh's write ups on this stickies on the top of the Discovery section. I would order the kit, it is far better then the Rover kit with all the extra parts you need.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 06:44 AM
  #16  
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I would pull the sv switch out from the bottom of the module first and see if your 2 switches check out ok. Save the money. Just bypass the svs wire and ride. Option B. Your switches are prolly ok. Screw the repair kit I say
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #17  
ShortTom's Avatar
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From: Columbus, OH
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Originally Posted by range_time
well back to my issues..lol..

The hub seems to have no play in it all. I jacked up the front and there was no wiggle or play in it what so ever.

I pull the connections for the ABS sensor and am showing an open circuit on the right front. (The front left shows about 1000 ohms so i guess i was checking it right.) I traced all the wires to the right hand sensor and they seemed to be ok with no damage to them, so i can only assume the sensor has failed. and with that i ordered a new one yesterday.

As for the shuttle valve what do you guys think is chances of me needing to replace this part from Falcon works (click me) or is it more likely to be fixed by doing option B on this link (click me) "ABS MODULATOR ELECTRICAL FAULT REPAIR"

Perhaps the question i should ask is... should i get the Falcon repair kit before i tear into this ABS unit or is there a way to tell which problem is likely to be before take it all apart? What is the more common problem of the two with the unit?

Again thanks for all the help on this. I'm in a bind as cannot get the Discovery to pass the emissions with all this going on so cannot register it, along with my job right now i only get to work on it at the weekends so really need to get all my ducks in a row before i start to take things apart so i can drive the darn thing!

Cheers
Dave
Dave, not to ressurect a dead thread, but I think there might actually be a slight heartbeat...

At any rate I'm experiencing a similar thing with an sensor fault and I'm wondering if your sensor replacement fixed it for you or you had to go with a new hub.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #18  
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The ohms range is 950-1100, I checked both of my front sensors they were 1000 oms and then I checked a new rear sensor, it was 1050 ohms


http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...id=5&Itemid=63

Willie
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 10:01 AM
  #19  
range_time's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ShortTom
Dave, not to ressurect a dead thread, but I think there might actually be a slight heartbeat...

At any rate I'm experiencing a similar thing with an sensor fault and I'm wondering if your sensor replacement fixed it for you or you had to go with a new hub.

I went with a new sensor and it ran great for a month, then the sensor on the other side failed (which would make sense, original 15 year old ones) so i just orderd that one from a guy in Europe of ebay. I managed to get the straight "plug in" replacement ones both time that just plug straight into the harness, not the ones you have to wire to the Slabs directly.
The job is not too hard at all provided your rotors are not seized onto the hubs as mine were. You pull the wheel, remove the disk and remove the one screw holding the senor in place. pop the new one in and your good to go. 2 hours tops.. 30 min if it all goes well.
Dave
 
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