There are a lot of posts out there about using an "equivalent" hyundai spec'ed purge valve in place of the 10x (or more) costly LR genuine part.

Here's my experience once my LR D2 threw a P0441 code (purge valve).

In my haste to get it fixed, I looked up the Hyundai part, found that my local autozone had a one with the same product number in stock for $40 and ran down to the store and bought it (a Dorman as I recall)

After swapping it out, the code came right back and you could hear the valve clicking on and off several times a second occasionally (sort of sounded like a cricket).

So I ordered a "genuine" hyundai part from Amazon (it has the Hyndai logo embossed on it) for $24, swapped out the generic equivalent and no problems so far.

Anyhow just wanted to share that experience and hopefully save someone from having to do the swap out twice.

 

x2 on that.

The dorman part is crap. What has really surprised me is that the original Hyundai part is more robust than the original Land Rover part.

 

Nice thread, thanks. Which part # from this list?

 

guessing it's this one:
Genuine Hyundai 28910-22040 Purge Control Valve
but search this forum to confirm.

 

Wish I had read this three weeks ago. I had P0441 and per the forum went with the Hyundai option, only I cheaped out and got the d@mned Dorman part too.

Code went away for two days and then back again intermittently over the past three weeks. Was driving me crazy thinking it was a leak with the hoses somewhere.

Thanks for the tip, I just threw the genuine one in my Amazon basket.

 

I've been using the Dorman 911-800 for several months now, with no problems whatsoever. I know I read that the purge valve does need to be mounted level and can give problems if it's not.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to check that and see what happens for a few days before I order the genuine one.

Just hate having an easy fix code and then having the fix not be so d@mn easy.

Life with a Rover I suppose...

 

P0441 "can" also be the gas cap. If you don't replace the entire purge control valve assembly (OEM includes the lines) you could also have a cracked line. It's hard to spot on the lower half, but it's something to check.

 

Thanks, I'll look at the lower line. I knew about the gas cap and that was one of my first upgrades when I bought it (old one was a cheap aftermarket anyway).

Any ideas on where to source the two lines without the purge valve? I've seen the complete LR assembly online but the price!

 

I just use new 5/16 line and some new SS hose clamps. You can cut off the old line on both sides and re-use the special line ends at the manifold and down by the bellhousing.

I've found the Stant gas cap at Wal-Mart for 6.00 is identical to our OEM LR gas caps (also made by Stant). If you're careful you can pop it apart, use the new lower half (important part), and re-use the OEM top and retain the little lanyard that lets it hang.