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Greaseable U-joints help?

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  #11  
Old 05-08-2009, 08:26 PM
salve7's Avatar
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No, once again lucky. I was just wiggling anything that looked like it could make a noise! I always had the basic concept of how it worked but after that happened I researched it, found this site, and have been learning ever since. I am mechanically retarded.
 
  #12  
Old 05-08-2009, 08:55 PM
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Salve 7 good for you. I am a firm believer that things don't just blow up without warning. Vibration, smell, noise or anything that just gets out of the ordinary should make you stop and check for the cause.
 
  #13  
Old 05-10-2009, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Yeah but you were smart to check the driveline for play.
Bad u-joints will often seize before they get any play in them, and you can't see that by just looking for play. You have to disconnect one end of the propshaft and see if you have smooth movement of the u-joints in all directions.
Obviously if you have play in them they are bad too.
 
  #14  
Old 05-10-2009, 09:00 PM
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I just did mine. I replaced the U-joints by going to Auto-zone and asking for the part numbers. What you need is 2 Precision #344 grease-able u-joints and 1 Precision #617 centering ball kit. I brought my shaft to the shop with those parts for the rebuild. My Local driveline shop refused to change the center-ball b/c the rover one was "much beefier and in perfect condition". My truck has 62K on it, yours may be more worn. This shop just builds drive lines all day long--I was not going to argue with them. The parts cost me $24 and the labor $40. Removing the drive shaft is as simple as 8 bolts all 9/16. It won't take much work, anyone is capable of this level of wrenching (even a mechanical retard).
 
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