antichrist is spot on. No real reason for you to pull the shaft other than to check the joints for binding. The original drive shaft has no means of allowing you to grease the centering ball. It sounds like you have been been doing it right.

 

Given my last experience with greasing everything, I think I could pull the shaft, grease all 3 joints and the slip yoke, and reinstall it in less time than trying to move the vehicle forward and backward in attempts to make the zerks accessible.

Side note: Last time (this past weekend) I did note that the joint on the rear driveshaft didn't seem to want to take grease at all. Looks like I'm going to have to engage CDL and have a FWD Disco for a day while changing it.

 

I think its quicker and easier to just remove the side to the t-case on my TW shaft - just saying....

I also did a write with step by step pictures on how to do this in 30min or less in and out of the garage.

 

CENTERING BALL!!!...i have spent this last day messing with this centering ball..flathead, slide hammers, small prybars. does anyone have another way of removing this easily (or easier i should say). any advice will help

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a slip shaft. That keyword doesn't appear anywhere in my RAVE

 

On the front driveshaft, there is an allen-headed screw on the shaft itself that oyou remove, install grease zerk, and lubricate the inside of the shaft itself. When finished, remove zerk and reinstall allen head set screw. The front shaft is actually two pieces, not counting the yokes, double cardan, etc. The shaft can change lengths as the front axle moves. This zerk allows you to keep the shaft lubricated, to allow for ease of extension and contraction.

 

If you don't have access to good wheel chocks, just get a piece of 4x6 from your local lumber yard and use that.
Jack up one front wheel and put the axle on a jack stand, then put the transfer case or gearbox in neutral.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words