Head bolt
Last time I replaced the head gasket, the engine was sitting on a stand -which made ALL the head bolts easy to get off, on, and torqued properly.
As I am trying to pull the heads again - I am having a @#&% of a time trying to get the very last one (nearest to the firewall - on the bottom) off. If I am having a hard time getting it off - I can imagine trying to getting this sucker torqued correctly when I try to put it back together.
And it is not the fact that it is 'stuck' - I just can't get a socket back there.
With that said - I know we have had 'countless' gasket replacement jobs on this board - what do you find (or what do you use - impact not allowed since 'I ain't got one') to fit a socket/wrench combo to get it off - and then put back on?
Thanks in advanced for the help!!
As I am trying to pull the heads again - I am having a @#&% of a time trying to get the very last one (nearest to the firewall - on the bottom) off. If I am having a hard time getting it off - I can imagine trying to getting this sucker torqued correctly when I try to put it back together.
And it is not the fact that it is 'stuck' - I just can't get a socket back there.
With that said - I know we have had 'countless' gasket replacement jobs on this board - what do you find (or what do you use - impact not allowed since 'I ain't got one') to fit a socket/wrench combo to get it off - and then put back on?
Thanks in advanced for the help!!
You need a 1/2" shallow 6pt impact socket with a 1/2" impact wobble extension on a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' cheater bar. That combination will make it easy. Get the impact socket and extension because they are built stronger and will not break. The 6 pt socket grips the head bolts better and prevents slipping or rounding the bolt. You can get these are tractor supply for relatively cheap.
Ran out to the store and got it - THANKS!!
You saved me a few hours.
I will have to get the 'cheater bar' next - I had one but I think I left it in a J/Y somewhere in Chicago.
I got the bolt off using sheer determination (and a lot of swearing) but I know better to try to reassemble it without the cheater bar....
Thanks again.
You saved me a few hours.
I will have to get the 'cheater bar' next - I had one but I think I left it in a J/Y somewhere in Chicago.
I got the bolt off using sheer determination (and a lot of swearing) but I know better to try to reassemble it without the cheater bar....
Thanks again.
When you put them back in I don't think you can hardly do it with one person. I had a helper hold the socket in place and watched the angle gage, while I pulled the breaker. This made things much easier. If you need and angle gage, I found mine at Autozone for $9 I belive, and it makes it much more accurate than just marking the socket and trying to get 90 degrees...
When you put them back in I don't think you can hardly do it with one person. I had a helper hold the socket in place and watched the angle gage, while I pulled the breaker. This made things much easier. If you need and angle gage, I found mine at Autozone for $9 I belive, and it makes it much more accurate than just marking the socket and trying to get 90 degrees...
Yeah - I have one of those - and I had to make sure the engine and stand were up against the garage wall when I did it so it wouldn't slide around.
Lie I mentioned - it was cake when I had it out of the car - so I am assuming the total opposite when the block is still in the car!!!!!
Lie I mentioned - it was cake when I had it out of the car - so I am assuming the total opposite when the block is still in the car!!!!!
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