Went back and forth on the tools to use, and really thankful I went this direction. Angle gauge with a big ratchet is the way to go.

 

@Brandon318 If you are doing torque to yield 100% that is the best way to go.

 

Also in doing this project, it's the first time I realized the motor is situated off-center. Wonder why. Maybe just to get the rest of the drive train to fit in between the frame rails down the line?

 

I haven’t used an angle gauge but I mark the head bolts at 12 o’clock after the initial torque. Then look for 90 and then 180*. The first job I did (my Disco) I slipped off twice and was very glad to have the marks painted on.

 

I hate the angle gauges, too inaccurate. I go with the paint method. Paint the socket too.

 

TBH, after finishing the job with it, I agree. Next time paint for me.

 

Another cool design feature by Land Rover is the front and rear diffs are lined up, if you come across a tall obstacle (rock or whatever) you can steer the rig over directly over (the drivers seat basically) and you have a bit more ground clearance....This is my take on it, I am not sure about the technical geometrical mathematical reasoning Land Rover has for this design..lol. But Im sure it involved moving the engine off center to accommodate the running gear design. Look under just about any other straight axle 4x4 out there, and you see the front and rear diff housings are off-set.

 

I have a snapon 1/2 torque wrench that does angle, with a paint marker and that, it's incredibly easy.

I haven't used stretch bolts in years though, too hard on my back.