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Head Bolt Problems

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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #1  
tdmadlem's Avatar
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Default Head Bolt Problems

having problem removing 3 headbolts on left side head -- center bolt & rear 2 bolts at firewall side -- using 16mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket -- socket has slipped on bolt head & head is now slightly deformed; socket will not grip securely on bolt head to allow removal; tightening 18" breaker bar allows socket to slip off bolt head before turning; all other 17 headbolts came loose without any problems;
I would think someone else may have had this problem before -- can anyone offer suggestions on how I can get these 3 remaining headbolts to loosen? I retightened bolts adjacent to the stuck bolts but this action didn't seem to help;
any ideas for some different tool or method would be very much appreciated; I am pulling heads mainly to replace headgasket on right side that was blown to outside edge;
 
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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acamato's Avatar
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From: St. James, NY
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The bolt heads are 5/8". You can try a 5/8" 6 pt socket, it will fit a little tighter than a 16mm socket. 5/8=0.625 and 16mm= .630"

When I pulled my heads I had an issue with the rear bolt next to the exhaust manifold on the drivers side head due to access.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 10:44 PM
  #3  
abran's Avatar
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If they bolt heads get bad, try these:

http://m.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-sae-bolt-extractor-sockets-9-pc-67897.html
 
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 07:08 AM
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From: Boston Strong
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you should un-torque the head in the opposite direction that you would torque the head.
you now have all the pressure locked down by just those last two bolts, a common mistake.
i would reinsert the other head bolts to release the tension, then you should be able to remove the rear head bolts using a 6-point 5/8 shallow impact socket and a short extension.
 

Last edited by drowssap; Aug 22, 2014 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 08:09 AM
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use a 5/8 socket not a 16mm. If you have a helper around have them hold the socket straight down on the bolt while you turn the breaker bar.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #6  
dr. mordo's Avatar
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Originally Posted by drowssap
you should un-torque the head in the opposite direction that you would torque the head.
you now have all the pressure locked down by just those last two bolts, a common mistake.
i would reinsert the other head bolts to release the tension, then you should be able to remove the rear head bolts using a 6-point 5/8 shallow impact socket and a short extension.
This is a good idea, but just to be clear don't try to 'torque' the bolts back to spec. Just put some tension on them to equalize the pressure across the head.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #7  
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From: Boston Strong
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that is correct; you just want to release a little tension
 
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 02:54 PM
  #8  
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Use the 5/8" 6 point BLACK impact socket.
Only impact will hold up.

On top of that put an impact svivel joint.
Then a short stub extension.
Then a breaker bar.
Put a pipe over the breaker bar for leverage.
That will get it off.

From March 2012 in Boulder CO

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/

There are some examples in the pictures of what you are attempting to do.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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tdmadlem's Avatar
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many thanks for all the help & advice! I was able to remove the last 3 bolts today;
using the 5/8" impact socket plus having a helper to steady the socket while using breaker bar did the trick! I thought the Rovers were all metric fasteners -- but I was wrong; not much size difference between 5/8" & 16mm -- but enough to make a big difference! busy this weekend, but plan to start reinstalling the new gaskets & cyl heads next week! will keep posted when my 2003 D2 is up & running again!
Thanks again - very much appreciate all the help!
 
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