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head gasket job

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  #1  
Old 10-11-2011 | 07:34 PM
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Default head gasket job

So my engine suffered from the leaking heads.I removed the heads changed the seals, cleeaned everything up and resurfaced the heads
My question is, how do I toque the last bolt on the driver's side?
Is there a special tool or a better method to do it..
So far I only did the first 90 deg on it
I used a hlf inch long ratchet with a bar, the problem is that the firewall is preventing from placing an extension to raise the ratchet
Any help is welcome tx
 
  #2  
Old 10-11-2011 | 07:45 PM
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Deepwell vs regular socket perhaps?
 
  #3  
Old 10-12-2011 | 05:36 AM
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shallow 6 point 5/8 socket with a 6 inch extention
 
  #4  
Old 10-12-2011 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Deepwell vs regular socket perhaps?
what does that look like?
 
  #5  
Old 10-12-2011 | 01:39 PM
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Sockets can be purchased in long or short lengths, which can give you just an inch or two more length, to avoid busting knuckles on things, go over protruding bolts, etc., without use of a extension. And of course, extensions come in all kinds of lengths. Since you are at the point where you turn 90 degrees, and have already set things using a torque wrench, could you switch to a breaker bar and cheater pipe?

Would seem like you could use any combination of things, as you are going for 90 degrees, not a particular foot/pound value.

What did you use to get it off originally?
 
  #6  
Old 10-13-2011 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Sockets can be purchased in long or short lengths, which can give you just an inch or two more length, to avoid busting knuckles on things, go over protruding bolts, etc., without use of a extension. And of course, extensions come in all kinds of lengths. Since you are at the point where you turn 90 degrees, and have already set things using a torque wrench, could you switch to a breaker bar and cheater pipe?

Would seem like you could use any combination of things, as you are going for 90 degrees, not a particular foot/pound value.

What did you use to get it off originally?
I used a 1/2" ratchet with a bar...
It's done, I used a 3/8 ratchet that fit in there just perfect and the jack tube to make it longer. I was just afraid that a 3/8 would break but it did the job in the end
Thanks for the help guys.
 
  #7  
Old 10-13-2011 | 06:42 AM
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Post pictures?
 
  #8  
Old 11-29-2011 | 11:05 AM
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A little update..
It runs fine, Soon after a finished it the down pipe on the passenger side broke, right at the flange, so I took it to my friend's garage and we did a new down pipe in stainless steel and removed the cats, spacers were used for for the secondary o2 sensors, no check engine light...when spring comes I will do the rest of the exhaust in stainless as well. It gained a bit of torque, my feeling.

Next, i noticed wear on the cam and lifters when I did the heads, so when spring comes I want to change all that...
My questions are..
Is it worth to go with an aftermarket cam, I saw piper has some that are supposed to gain more torque??
Do I have to change the push rods as well?? I cleaned them when I did the heads and did not notice any abnormal wear on them.
Do I have to change the rockers as well??

I had regular oil mixed with a liter of tranny oil to clean the insides, I am now gonna switch it back to synthetic oil

That's about it
 
  #9  
Old 11-29-2011 | 12:03 PM
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If you increase the output, then what about all the parts down steam that were designed for low original output.... I'd go for reliability rather than rapid gravel relocation...
 
  #10  
Old 11-29-2011 | 12:07 PM
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IMHO your money would be better spent on a set of 4.2 heads they are suppossed to breath much better than 4.0 heads. I think the piper cam is going to be choked down by the 4.0 heads unless you have them ported and flowed, which is were the 4.2 head come in they flow better than 4.0 right out of the box.
 


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