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head gasket job

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  #11  
Old 11-30-2011 | 07:18 PM
20vturbo's Avatar
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4wd Low
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From: montreal
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I am not gonna increase it to 50% over just some torque, if this engine can't take the power from a cam then it's garbage

I just did the heads, and I am not crazy about putting too much money in it, the cam is because I have to change it, if then why not get a better one...I looked at the heads when I did the gaskets, Those ports are minuscule, I don't know what they were thinking when they made this engine.
 
  #12  
Old 11-30-2011 | 07:27 PM
Disco Mike's Avatar
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From: Denver, Colorado
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Originally Posted by 20vturbo
So my engine suffered from the leaking heads.I removed the heads changed the seals, cleeaned everything up and resurfaced the heads
My question is, how do I toque the last bolt on the driver's side?
Is there a special tool or a better method to do it..
So far I only did the first 90 deg on it
I used a hlf inch long ratchet with a bar, the problem is that the firewall is preventing from placing an extension to raise the ratchet
Any help is welcome tx
Are you following Rover sequence procedure when torquing the head bolts, did you use ne head bolts with head bolt thread lubricant? I don't see how you can have the correct torque using a 3/8ths. drive.
 
  #13  
Old 12-01-2011 | 01:14 PM
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From: montreal
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Are you following Rover sequence procedure when torquing the head bolts, did you use ne head bolts with head bolt thread lubricant? I don't see how you can have the correct torque using a 3/8ths. drive.
I went by the book, I had to use that on one bolt, the last one on the driver's side, no extension will fit because of the firewall, I use the bar from the tire jack to extend the ratchet.
There was no info on bolt lubricant, I cleaned the threads and used new bolts, heads were resurfaced and cleaned, new valve seals...Everything runs fine, been driving it for a month now, no leaks
 
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