I'm in to tally the same place...collected parts...but finally i'm there...next parts= lift, bumper, tires..
I just am going to put valve seals in, clean up heads an block, and re-install with new injectors and stuff... I'm going on an overland trip this weekend...riding with my buddy, and I don't have timne to get around to finishing yet...

 

Got down to the Intake yesterday. I took my time, and stayed organized. Only the screw for the dipstick has given me trouble.

Some of the valve cover bolts were really loose. The valve cover gaskets were not seated even close to properly and have found one of the metal rings sitting on top of the Head. 3 more were not in the gaskets so hopefully they turn up.

Elbow Pipe was banged up, idler pulleys are at the end of life cycle, and I have a Bolthole to fix for the Power Steering Bracket so a 90 Degree drill and Timesert kit are in my future.

If you guys take a look you can see that there is quite a git of oil in the first two holes in the lower intake. The Upper intake gasket I had not seated well and was wet with Oil, and the gasket between the plenum chamber and Upper Intake was saturated as well. Is that normal to have that much oil getting up there through the breather tube?

 

The Intake Manifold Gasket for some reason is bubbled up. I don't like that much and am glad I am changing it.

Also the Fuel Injectors are caked in grime, and am very happy to have bought remanned replacements.

 

Its normal for the stupid PCV system to have loads of oil in the intake so no worries. When you say intake manifold gasket, do you mean the valley pan? Mine was all gnar / bubbly as well..

 

Yes. Seems odd, but possibly normal. I don't know.

 

Probably normal.

Mine was probably worse

 

To be fair, my engine only has 28,000 miles on it.

Grab a couple of can of Brakekleen and blast the front of your engine. Did wonders for mine.

 

It's obvious my oil leak at the back has been from this seal. The shop told me Rear Main Seals. I am really starting to hate those guy. The Manifold clamps were at about 5lb's of torque, maybe 10. They slathered RTV all over, and where it is not needed.

 

Really happy how the Engine looks after 28,000. Have been using Rotella 5w-40/15w-40. I am going to switch to Castrol 10w-40 plus RevX Zddp additive.

 

I used red loctite on the lower half of the bottom threads of my ARP studs, and I used the gray/brown thread sealer for the upper half of the bottom threads on the ARP studs for the 4 corner studs because those bolt holes may go into the coolant chambers. You don't want pressurized coolant working its way up through there.


I screwed in my ARP studs with a little 3/6" hex wrench. You'll see on the top end of each ARP stud an indention for that hex wrench to fit, which also conveniently lets you know that you have inserted each ARP stud in the correct orientation.

On the upper half of the ARP stud threads you will want to use the torque grease that ARP includes in your stud kit.

Also, you will use that precision torque grease on the bottom of each ARP nut.

That said, you don't want *any* grease or oil on the bottom half of each ARP stud washer. It needs to be dry and clean laying on top of your heads.