First of all quit adding a new topic to an existing thread, start your own in the future.
Second get a second option and or at least find out why they are recommending this work. Also get an exact estimate for each job.
If the head gaskets are leaking, have him show you and get an estimate.
What is leaking from the timing cover, coolant or oil, have him show you and get an estimate.
As for the rear main, may only be a valve cove leaking and if it is the main seal, a good sealant will usually fix it.
Get back to us.

 

Do not buy a cheap, Asian made radiator or you will get a piece of junk. Go to British Parts of Utah and buy theirs along with a new t/stat and never use engine coolant stop leak again.

 

"along with a new t/stat "
I just put a new t/stat in a couple weeks ago, before the stop leak crap. Do you think I still need to replace it?

I'm so irritated at myself for using that crap. My own logic told me it can't be good for the cooling system, but the mechanic who told me to use it builds pretty high end customs, I figured he must know more than me!

 

thanks for all the info guys! I will start getting the parts in line to make the repairs.

Cheers!

 

Just got a call from the radiator shop. They pressure tested before doing a flush and said it is definitely a blown head gasket. They didn't flush so as not to make it worse.

So now I'm thinking, new HG, probably new radiator, new timing chain kit, anything else?

I'm trying to decide what I want to invest in this since it has 147k miles already. Will be doing the work myself, but that's still a lot of cash and time.

 

FYI, recent repairs I've already done:
new poly-v belt
new water pump
all cooling hoses are new to newish
new intake gasket
new coils and newish wires
resealed t-case
new tranny and t-case fluids
new valve cover gaskets

 

so you basically already have experience with head gaskets, I meen you have done the valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, coils and wires a few exhaust bolts and the heads are ready to come off. The same with the timing cover gasket if you did the water pump and hoses take them back off pull out some extra bolts and your at the timing chain& gasket, what sucks is you have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off.

 

Hey, all, just was prepping the decks and noticed some deterioration at the water jacket...The manual says the gaskets should be fitted dry...I'm a bit nervous about the pitting at the water jacket...thinking a bit of Permatex or silicon might not be a bad thing. Does anyone have hard data on using sealant on the head gaskets...only at the pitted areas...
Anyhoo, I'd like to proceed in the morning, so an AAP responce would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

So, thumbing around on Google, I found this: ( answers my question nicely):

Installing New Head Gaskets
Replacement head gaskets, such as the Land Rover Genuine Parts supplied by Rovers North, are now using different materials than those used originally when most repair manuals (Haynes, Bentley, etc.) were written. First, today's head gaskets are fitted dry - do not use a gasket sealer during installation.

All V8 engines detail
A new cylinder head gasket and head bolts have been introduced since about 1995. The gasket is of composite construction with stainless steel fire rings and bolt eyelets. The outer row of cylinder head bolts have been deleted with the introduction of this gasket. The cylinder head height has been modified to compensate for the increased thickness of the new gasket. New bolts must be fitted when a gasket has been replaced.

A new tightening procedure is also introduced and should be be precisely followed when fitting the new gasket.

V8 Engines




1. Remove the cylinder heads following the instructions in the workshop Manual section 12, inspect the cylinder block face, cylinder bores and bolt holes are free from debris.

2. Select the appropriate gasket for the type of engine ie: 3.5/3.9 or 4.2. This can be identified by the identification holes in the gasket, 3.5 has one hole, 3.9/4.2 has 2 holes. See illustration below.



3. Fit and position the gasket on the dowels ensuring that the word TOP is uppermost. DO NOT FLEX or BEND THE GASKET.

4. Ensure the gasket and cylinder head face are clean and free from grease and debris, carefully fit the cylinder head.
5. NEW CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS MUST
ALWAYS BE FITTED. Check the bolt threads for damage, lightly oil the threads. There are two lengths of bolt which must be fitted to the appropriate position as shown in the illustration.
Flange bolt length 66mm is fitted to holes 2,4,6,7,8,9 and 10.
Flange bolt length 96 mm is fitted to holes 1,3 and 5.

6. Lightly tighten all bolts in the numbered sequence shown above.

7. Tighten all bolts in the sequence shown to 20 Nm (15 lb ft.).

8. Tighten all bolts in sequence a further 90˚ (1/4 turn).

9. Tighten all bolts in sequence a final 90˚ (1/4 turn).

Rovers North Part numbers are as follows;

V8 Engine Gasket Sets
RNM015 Gasket set 3.5 litre
RNV016 Gasket set - steel gasket 3.9 litre
RNM083 Gasket set - fibre gasket 3.9/4.0/4.2 litre - Genuine
PLM083 Gasket set - fibre gasket 3.9/4.0/4.2 litre ProLine
PLM012 Head Gasket - fibre type 3.9/4.0 litre V8 - ProLine

V8 Engine Head Bolts
RNK0134 Cylinder Head Bolt Kit, V8 - Genuine
PLK0134 Cylinder Head Bolt Kit, V8 - ProLine
PS: here's the link:
Rovers North - Technical Tips Installing New Head Gaskets Range ...




www.roversnorth.com/.../t-technical-info-tips-installing-new-head-ga...Cached - Similar
You +1'd this publicly. Undo
Rovers North - Technical Tips Installing New Head Gaskets - Land Rover Series, Defender, Discovery Range Rover Parts and Accessories From Rovers North

 

.....never mind....somehow wrong posting by me.sorry.