I ended up using some engine assembly lube I had already.

The head bolts are amazingly difficult to "break" loose. And there is a very definite snap when they break loose (even after removing so many I always think the bolt head has broken off when they come loose, and they they can be turned with fingertips). I am really surprised that they don't have a massive lump of thread locker om the end, but they don't. I guess that's the nature of stretch bolts.

 

I think the kit comes with parts for all versions of the engine...3.9-4.6


Titan Stud Puller — 3/8in. Drive, Model# 16023 | Multi-Drive Specialty Sets| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

Okay. I'm going to look for that. Like tomorrow.

Everything is together and I started it briefly without the manifolds. Purrs. Well, growls with no exhaust. Had a slight snafu with the spark plug wiring but once I get the exhaust on tomorrow I'll give it a test drive.

Also, it is hard for me to avoid breaking the hard plastic lines... Did that. I had some blue hose that worked instead.

I am shocked, shocked, that I have seen the tops of cylinder heads (never seen that in person) and started the vehicle in the same day. This has been a rough but rewarding job.

 

It's a great feeling isn't it.

 

Yep. Really is. When swapped the engine it was my first major auto work ever. I was simply amazed when it started up. This was better.

 

Quick question to anyone... There are two connectors that come out of the upper manifold, on the same loom as the driver side injector connections. They are on the end after the injector connectors. They are black and orange (the connectors, not the wires) and are in the right place for ACE. I don't have ACE, but I don't remember those connectors, either. Does anyone know if those are ACE connectors or did I screw the pooch? I don't see anything else to plug them in to.

 

you can do it

 

There is a small connector which goes to the air box to the temp sensor the measure the ambient temp of air it is sucking in.

There is also an SAI valve with a connector on it which is toward the middle of the engine and clipped on near the fuel rail on the manifold.

you'll get codes to tell you where these go - soon enough if you get your engine started.

 

I found a couple of spots that I had missed before... To the throttle body and doohickey that comes off the throttle body. I have no idea what the latter does. I also found that I failed to replace the retainer on the silver cannister on top of the manifold. When I plugged all of them in, it immediately started purring.

I also had a panic because cylinders 1,4,6, and 7 were showing a misfire on my code reader, it was running rough, and I couldn't get up my driveway without a head start. RAVE showed they are all connected to the driver side coil. Yep, forgot the retainer. As a result, not only did it run on one side only for a couple of minutes, but the plastic loom dipped down on the exhaust. I saw smoke (the plastic was melting) burned my finger with molten plastic, and then got to lay on the engine in order to get the coil hooked up and, worse yet, get the retainer on with exactly two fingers (all that will fit behind the manifold). Success!

And now I know why discoveries are not four cylinders.

Runs great, doesn't seem to be leaking coolant. Sounds better.

I thought I had a slipped liner but since I swapped my gunky valve train for my old, clean one, that ticking has disappeared. My garage looks like a tool factory exploded. Deal with that later.

Changed oil, topped everything off, and drove down the street a very happy man.

Thanks, everyone, for helping me with your suggestions. I really appreciate it. Now I have replaced a head gasket with the engine in the vehicle. Cross that off list. Never happen again.

Now to focus on my swap...

Best,

Charlie V

 

see now that you have burns and cuts, you deserve to own a LR.
you might want to borrow a pressure tester again to check for leaks in a few days. I would hate to see it over heat from a small leak after all you have done.