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Head gasket replacement, p0305,p0307 codes, bolt replacement

  #1  
Old 01-19-2014, 02:17 PM
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Default Head gasket replacement, p0305,p0307 codes, bolt replacement

So, I replaced the head gaskets and bolts on my D2 with NON atlantic british head gaskets and bolts. Had the heads shaved at Napa. I am pretty mechanically inclined and everything went back together as it was supposed to. I am now getting coolant in oil, and codes P0305 and P0307 misfire codes numerous times even after replacing plugs. Did a pressure test using a homemade expansion tank cap with shrader valve attachment that I found on this site, NO leaks that I can see anywhere. I still have gurgling behind the dash after bleading system numerous times but I do have good heat in the vehicle. Also have white smoke out tailpipe. I'm thinking I have a blown head gasket AGAIN on driver side due to cylinder 5 and 7 misfire codes, 5 & 7 are nearest to the firewall on drivers side. Gonna change HG on driver side with AB head gasket. Question is, do I need to buy new HG bolts even though I just replaced them? They probably have 2 miles on them, just from taking vehicle around the block on test rides. I have also replaced wires and ignition coils when i did the HG, to rule out the misfires.
Thanks
Ben
 

Last edited by bennyb43; 01-19-2014 at 07:18 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-26-2014, 02:16 PM
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Did your truck overheat? If your convinced you did everything right then perhaps the block is damaged? Or a cheaper solution is that your torque wrench is off. I wouldn't just replace them without looking into it first. I have used the British Atlantic head gaskets with great success and I didn't shave the heads. Speaking of shaving, I have heard mixed reviews from NAPA. Enough to keep me away from them when I brought another set to get machined. Perhaps have them checked for flatness at a real machine shop. To answer your question, I have been told that you cannot use them. I had a cylinder head thread give way during the send 90 and I was told I needed new bolts and I never started it. This is because they never return to the original length once they have been stretched.

Good Luck,

Ovide
 
  #3  
Old 01-26-2014, 06:14 PM
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Torque to Yield bolt, means the bolt stretches as it is tightened. Once stretched, it cannot be re-used. So every time you remove the head, the bolts go in the trash. No ifs, ands or buts.
 
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:00 AM
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all the more reason to pop the extra $50 on an ARP stud set the can be used over and over.
 
  #5  
Old 11-27-2015, 10:57 PM
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Firstly hello , secondly as I went through sorta the same questions when I did my gasket change will give ya what I picked up from scouts, and from alot of research. As others said always get new bolts. I went with a beck arnley set I found on ebay. Also this is just a preference. I would go with a felpro gasket/gasket set. Also just what I did mind you but when you have the heads off, I took ye ol shop vac to it and vaccuumed out all the bolt holes, and the water ports. Just because I overdo everything :P. Hope ya get er back up and running with no issues I don't know tons, but if ya need any help and I can ya can shoot me a message and will get ya my email.
 
  #6  
Old 11-28-2015, 07:14 AM
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when you pulled the heads did you visually inspect the block for signs of piston sleeve movement or/and underside of the heads for signs of piston sleeve contact? A tell tale sign of slipped sleeve/s is the presence of a circular impression stamped into the underside of the head, around the valves.

If you're certain the HG swap was a success then sorry to say you may have a slipped liner, cracked block, or cracked head.

And TTY bolts can only be used One time. Doesn't matter how "miles" are on them once you rotate that torque wrench, they're finished. I highly recommend using ARP studs.
 

Last edited by coors; 11-28-2015 at 07:20 AM.
  #7  
Old 11-28-2015, 07:25 AM
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Just thinking out loud here.

Are you certain the head is sitting 100% flush on the block mating surface with zero interference? It's not hung up on a wire or a piece of debris that would cause it not mate / seal properly?

Was there water in the oil prior to starting the job? If so, was the tainted oil removed and replaced with clean fresh oil?

It appears you misses are located at the two left (driver's side) rear cylinders.
 
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:29 AM
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Original post is almost 2 years old.
 
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  #9  
Old 11-28-2015, 10:53 AM
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Doh..that will teach me to read the forums when I'm half asleep lol
 
  #10  
Old 11-28-2015, 04:01 PM
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And my dumb *** responded. Haha. Regardless, still good info for the archives.
 
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