Heads probably a ticking time bomb
#21
I don't think there's anyway around it being a PITA to replace them.
The advice I've read several times is to not replace them, just tighten them down. Replacement doesn't solve the problem. The bolts holding the valve covers down work themselves loose and the covers leak, no matter if the gaskets are new or old.
The advice I've read several times is to not replace them, just tighten them down. Replacement doesn't solve the problem. The bolts holding the valve covers down work themselves loose and the covers leak, no matter if the gaskets are new or old.
Put a bit of silicone on the important edges and corners and tighten properly and you go a good long while before doing it again. If you are worried about the bolts moving then put some blue loctite on them.
#22
went in and re-tightned all the bolts I could get to, 4 in all. The only bolt that was really loose was the drivers side front most bolt. The passenger side where it appears the gasket is hanging out slightly, those bolts were not to lose. I checked the oil level again though after that 4 hour trip and the level is right where it should be - full and not overfull. 2 quarts was what I needed and so far I have not seen the oil light come back on.
and yes I was out of state for several months so the Disco was in hibernation mode, and it will be in it again come this April. Once I get back from my second season I will have enough $$$$ to change out some old gaskets and bolts. "IF" I can score on getting a second vehicle (LR3) then Ill have more flexibility to tackle more complicated DIY jobs on my D2 since I wont be depending on it to get me to work daily. I still want to change out the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets/filter while im on the subject of oil. Also need to use some serious engine cleaning formulas.
and yes I was out of state for several months so the Disco was in hibernation mode, and it will be in it again come this April. Once I get back from my second season I will have enough $$$$ to change out some old gaskets and bolts. "IF" I can score on getting a second vehicle (LR3) then Ill have more flexibility to tackle more complicated DIY jobs on my D2 since I wont be depending on it to get me to work daily. I still want to change out the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets/filter while im on the subject of oil. Also need to use some serious engine cleaning formulas.
Last edited by TRIARII; 12-08-2013 at 08:26 AM.
#23
went in and re-tightned all the bolts I could get to, 4 in all. The only bolt that was really loose was the drivers side front most bolt. The passenger side where it appears the gasket is hanging out slightly, those bolts were not to lose. I checked the oil level again though after that 4 hour trip and the level is right where it should be - full and not overfull. 2 quarts was what I needed and so far I have not seen the oil light come back on.
and yes I was out of state for several months so the Disco was in hibernation mode, and it will be in it again come this April. Once I get back from my second season I will have enough $$$$ to change out some old gaskets and bolts. "IF" I can score on getting a second vehicle (LR3) then Ill have more flexibility to tackle more complicated DIY jobs on my D2 since I wont be depending on it to get me to work daily. I still want to change out the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets/filter while im on the subject of oil. Also need to use some serious engine cleaning formulas.
and yes I was out of state for several months so the Disco was in hibernation mode, and it will be in it again come this April. Once I get back from my second season I will have enough $$$$ to change out some old gaskets and bolts. "IF" I can score on getting a second vehicle (LR3) then Ill have more flexibility to tackle more complicated DIY jobs on my D2 since I wont be depending on it to get me to work daily. I still want to change out the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets/filter while im on the subject of oil. Also need to use some serious engine cleaning formulas.
its a bit more involved, but if you are going to do the engine oil pan you should do the timing cover. when you timing cover leaks, if it doesn't currently, you'll have to replace the oil pan again, so it is less of a waste to do them both.
if its not leaking and you oil pan is, i understand where you are coming from.
#24
went in and re-tightned all the bolts I could get to, 4 in all. The only bolt that was really loose was the drivers side front most bolt. The passenger side where it appears the gasket is hanging out slightly, those bolts were not to lose. I checked the oil level again though after that 4 hour trip and the level is right where it should be - full and not overfull. 2 quarts was what I needed and so far I have not seen the oil light come back on.
and yes I was out of state for several months so the Disco was in hibernation mode, and it will be in it again come this April. Once I get back from my second season I will have enough $$$$ to change out some old gaskets and bolts. "IF" I can score on getting a second vehicle (LR3) then Ill have more flexibility to tackle more complicated DIY jobs on my D2 since I wont be depending on it to get me to work daily. I still want to change out the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets/filter while im on the subject of oil. Also need to use some serious engine cleaning formulas.
and yes I was out of state for several months so the Disco was in hibernation mode, and it will be in it again come this April. Once I get back from my second season I will have enough $$$$ to change out some old gaskets and bolts. "IF" I can score on getting a second vehicle (LR3) then Ill have more flexibility to tackle more complicated DIY jobs on my D2 since I wont be depending on it to get me to work daily. I still want to change out the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets/filter while im on the subject of oil. Also need to use some serious engine cleaning formulas.
You said the oil light stayed on. Was it literally on for a minute or simply a few more seconds? Was it because the oil was low? If comes on again you need to check the oil pressure. Otherwise just make sure it has oil and coolant and roll with it.
#25
#27
there is no need to go looking; your Rover will tell you when it needs something.
The coils only need to be removed so you can get to the middle bolt on the upper plenum, the upper plenum need to be removed to get to the inner VC bolts.
Really not a big deal I had to replace my coils this weekend so I replaced my wires and plugs while I was there total time 3.5 hours including the front 02's outside lovely NE weather.
there is a total of 8 bolts for the upper plenum, 2 for the coil bracket, everything else is a plug or hose clamp.
The coils only need to be removed so you can get to the middle bolt on the upper plenum, the upper plenum need to be removed to get to the inner VC bolts.
Really not a big deal I had to replace my coils this weekend so I replaced my wires and plugs while I was there total time 3.5 hours including the front 02's outside lovely NE weather.
there is a total of 8 bolts for the upper plenum, 2 for the coil bracket, everything else is a plug or hose clamp.
Last edited by drowssap; 12-09-2013 at 01:04 PM.
#28
I don't think that is the case with the VC gaskets on our trucks. They have a steel spacer in the gaskets where the bolts go through so you don't squish the gasket when you overtighten them, you just risk breaking or stripping the bolt.
#29
#30
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Regarding Valve Cover Gaskets: Back in earlier days, when we had only valve cover gaskets made from cork, later followed by rubber-like material mixed in with the cork, we HAD constant problems with their leaking. However, in time, the first artificial all rubber valve cover gaskets appeared, ones that last what seems like forever, being most resistant to oils, gasoline, etc. If they do leak, it is usually due to fact that the associated bolts have come loose, or contamination has overtaken the gaskets. Through the years, I have found that if a leak is happening, and one takes the gaskets out, cleans them up nicely, re installs them, torquing bolts correctly, that the leak is no more; most importantly, it is not necessary to install a new valve cover gasket ever, unless the old one somehow gets damaged. That is my long term experience, and I am sticking to it---LOL.