Simpler issue first: I found a couple things at the junk yard. Hooked-up seat heater switches. They glow, but no heat in my seats! Pisses me off, what's the deal here? Secondly, someone dropped the tranny and trans-box and just left it there. I can buy the front output housing off of the unit for $100. What's involved with the disassembly besides the outer bolts holding the housing to the main case? Will it simply drop off, or will I find gears and bearing needing to be pressed-out as well? I don't want any surprises. Now, which type of motor from which vehicle do I need to customize an electronic engagement for the "nipple" component. There's got to be a better name for that mechanism. Can I use another window motor and switch from a D2, or is there something else better-suited for the task? Appreciate your responses. I'm getting awfully excited imagining my D2 with a CDL.

 

I see that I will need a puller for the front output flange

 

do a google image search for discovery 2 cdl levers, there are hundred of different way to hook it up.

there was a company down under that used a power window motor, i believe that is what disco mike used. you would have to add limit switches to a standard motor.

what shifter is in the truck at the bone yard?

the seat you should check with an ohm meter, the elements could be bad

 

standard Hi/Lo shifter with no side-throw at the scrapper. How could the heating elements have gone bad if they have never been activated?? The seats still look top-notch. at least a 9.5 on 10 scale so there wouldn't be any distortion.


I was hoping someone had a link for a write-up or bill of materials for that window motor activation setup so that I'm not wasting a bunch of time with trial-and-error.

 

I know that josh salas guy has a ton of threads and write-ups on different mods, but I didn't see anything on makes or models compatible with the CDL actuation mod. I don't know how to contact him. I tried an old G-mail addy, it was returned.

 

The seat heaters go bad from the wear of years of being sat on. No need to actually use them for them to fail. I haven't had much luck with the ohm meter test. The circuit is designed as a low ohm resistor in the first place. In good condition it reads low. My bad ones (yes i've had two) never read zero. And then you would need to look up in the RAVE which two wires are the lower seat element so you aren't measuring the usually good upper one.

Currently I have an intermittent element that developed shortly after reupholstering the bottom of the drivers seat. doh!

 

There may not have even been any elements in the seats to begin with. I know that some trucks, including almost all S models, never had them installed. Whether or not you have leather or pleather seats is a relatively reliable tell, but still not 100%.

 

CDL how to: 2003CDLInstall - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.
As for the shifter, you can use one from a series 1 disco. Bolts right to replace the non locking one but you will need to cut some metal.
Also this helps:

 

Yep. Paul Grant usually has some complete setups in stock for the CDL. Abran may also, not sure.

 

The heat in the seat mysteriously began working while I was driving last night. Typical. On the CDL, I pulled the housing from the donor, along with switches/sensors but the main shaft with gears would not come out. Maybe if I pulled the rear output flange it will slide out forwards. In the RaVE the gear sets and output shaft look identical. Is it possible to use the modified housing with my current transfer case output shaft and diff component? I read somewhere that josh salas said it was better to do it this way rather than swap the whole shaft because of the trouble re-setting the detent ball/spring.