Hello all im new here and need some help,

ok so lets start at the beginning i just purchased a 2003 Land Rover Discovery SE7, and it has some problems. I have the Codes so here they are

1. P0102
2. P0135
3. P0141
4. P0161
5. P0340
6. P0414
7. P0445
8. P0448
9. P1451
10. P1482
11. P1590
12. P1884

So i am very handy with mechanics and am looking forward to fixing all of the problems both cosmetic and mechanical but i need some help to point myself in the correct direction due to a small lack of funds and because i would prefer not to just throw parts at the problems.

Also thank you for any and all help, from what i have seen so far it wont be long before i have a good idea where to start

Thank You,
Matt Wilson

P.S. also the exhaust also smells like gas so the truck is obviously using more gas then it needs to

 

Welcome to the forum Matt, wow you have quite the list there. Up at the top of this page is a search bar type in code list and then search it you will find out all the possible codes and what they are for. I would go get your codes cleared and then come back to us and let us know which ones come back. Sometimes one problem can generate and code and then the snowball effect and tons more codes pop up so start this way and we can address the codes as they come back! Good luck and glad to have you here!!!

 

thank you for the quick response that is exactly what i have done and these are the codes that come back every time, but i have only cleared them 3 times and driven the truck till they come back.

here is what i have decoded

1. P0102 = Mass Air Flow sensor fault
2. P0135 = o2 sensor heater upstream
3. P0141 = o2 sensor heater upstream
4. P0161 = o2 heater downstream
5. P0340 = cam position sensor fault /valve timing fault
6. P0414 = secondary air valve power stage fault
7. P0445 = canister purge valve
8. P0448 = canister vent valve power stage fault
9. P1451 = Leakage Detection Module Motor power stage errorDrive cycle A:Signal out of range - above maximum
10. P1482 = DMTL Heater power stageDrive cycle A:Signal out of range - below minimum
11. P1590 = Rough road signal implausible Drive cycle A:Signal implausible.
12. P1884 = CAN message WFPDK (DKI) invalid (FFh)

there they are decoded hopefully most of them will be connected to one problem

Hope this helps everyone figure it out and help me to get this done love this truck already and i haven't even been driving it legally yet..... lol but this will change monday morning :-)

Thanks
Matt Wilson

 

Hello again change your mass air flow sensor and reset codes and go from there! May take a few drive cycles to get things to clear up depends how long is has been running like this? May want to try to unplug the oxygen sensors and clean the oil out of the then let the dry and fill them with dielectric grease before re- plugging them back in. Try this before replacing them but that may be what needs to happen again depends on how long it has been running with a bad mass air flow sensor?

 

ok will do, and thank you for the help

by the way my truck falls into the "death oil pump" thingy as it is 3A788191 but the truck has 101300 miles and it does have some lifter tick ( my other vehicle is a 98 jeep cherokee that a lifter has been going out in for years) should this at all be of any worry to me, the truck sat for about 8 months "security locked" ( the person was an idiot and didnt know how to work the security in these things ) but i put in a new battery and disarmed the security and the truck started fine ....now it needs a oil change but im rambling

Since it is in the range for the bad oil pumps and there is some ticking should this be of great worry to me ?

thanks
Matt Wilson

 

Do a mechanical oil PSI test with a gauge attached where oil switch mates to block. Measure idle and 2500 rpm, both at cold start and fully warmed up. Post back all four numbers.

 

Whenever some one gets that many codes, the first thing I have them do is go have a free charging test performed at the local parts store. If your voltage is below 13.6 to 14.4 volts, fix that problem, then clear your codes and see what comes back.

 

Disco mike I assume that the charging factor would be the alternator that kinda makes sense as the tach does not work as well.

Savannah I will be adding a oil pressure gauge to the truck either under the hood or in cabin but it will take a week or so to do... In the mean time I'm gonna do a oil change and add lucid oil stabilizer to it with some good ol' 10-30 and keep an Eyre on the oil light .
Anything else of immediate import come to mind that I need to do to drive it for a few weeks other then the mag sensor and a load test on the charging system ...

Thanks
Matt Wilson

 

What part of the country are you located? Most of us run rotella 15w 40 in our trucks vs 10w 30 and you need to inspect your front drive shaft to see if it has been rebuilt or replaced. The stock drive shaft has a high failure rate and will cause significant damage when it breaks loose. And what mag sensor are you referring to?

 

Im located in Monroe Louisiana so we usually use 10-30 in almost everything..... and the front driveshaft is not a serviceable one and i meant to type MAF sensor my phone auto corrected it sorry ......

but it is making no noise and at the moment i need to do anything at all to make sure it will last a few weeks without breaking so i can get the money saved to do a few things at once and without making more problems for myself right away.... but i know it needs a oil change and the maf sensor immediately and to load check the charging system to make sure it is up to par

by the way lr2001silver how much are your replacement driveshafts for the front ?? cause i do want to do that after the oil pressure gauge

Thanks
Matt Wilson