My wife andI are happy (relatively) owners of a 2003 discovery se for about 3 montsh. My wife loves the thing, loves how big the windshield is compared to modern cars, I love how it's got some modern amenities but still is made like they used to. We put a pioneer radio in it with Android Auto and kept the old under seat amplifier, and even with the issues it has we are pleased. I have had to do plugs and wires and a nice mechanic shop took over after I gave up for less than $500 usd, and after 2 days of struggling, it was a good deal. If I ever have to touch ignition again, I'll get the coil relocator kit though. We also had the throttle body heater leak, but being in Phoenix I just bypassed it with a copper tubing 'U' and everything was fine again. Now the steering gear is leaking, but only in one direction. When I turn the wheel right, everything is tight. But when I go left I make a puddle that makes it to the end of the driveway. Narrowed it down to the pitman arm shaft or output shaft using a $40 boroscope, https://youtu.be/Mmdxk1Bhm0k, https://youtu.be/poNcM_CNSRs So now, it's just one seal. I've verified the pump is fine, the hoses are great, and the input shaft is dry. Does anyone know where to get the output shaft seal or a good substitute that fits? Or should I bite it and get a remanufactured steering box.

 

Get a reman steering box!!!!

 

Been there, done that.
I have been working on cars and bikes many years, proffesionally for a while, blah, blah, etc.
I have rebuilt steering boxes before, and tried to do the D2 as well. It was a huge pain in the ***.
All seemed well, I was putting the worm gear back in, very gently, and it slipped right into place, flip the box over, and find a sheared piece of one of the 3 plastic bushings/seals on it...and they are only available in a $125+ kit.
The seal you see leaking, behind the pitman arm, is just a dust seal. There is another seal behind it, and the box must be dissambled to install it.
There is also a large, round spring clip, which is simple in theory to remove, and a nightmare in reality to remove.
After wasting about $150 in a rebuild kit(which does not include bearinhs) learing the hard way, I spent $276 on a reman box with a year warranty.
I would highly recommend the reman box over a rebuild.

 

Ok, pretty quickly 2 votes for reman. Rockauto has the cheapest reman at $327. Is there a better place to go?

 

Remove the fluid lines from the top of the box.
Loosen the u-joint bolt on the box's end.
Flatten washer and remove pitman arm nut.
Hit pitman arm hard with big ball peen hammer, towards the passenger side, right above where nut threads on, and the arm with drop off the shaft.
4 screws hold splash guard in driver fender well.
4 bolts hold box to frame.
Pull unbolted box forward off steering shaft.
Reverse for install.
There is a threaded hole and groove on the box to align the pitman arm, and have the steering wheel centered and locked.
This will ensure correct wheel and steering wheel alignment when you push the box shaft back into the u-joint.
If the lower u-joint has any slack/play, a reman shaft is $100, and nows the time to change it.
That would be any left/right slack before the steering actually moves the wheels.
One visible bolt holds the top u-joint as well.
You may need some penatrating oil and/or heat from a small propane torch to persuade them off, but otherwise a very straight forward job.

 

Yes, I paid $276 somewhere else, hold on and I'll find it

 

www.buyautoparts.com

 

$349. I guess if the rock auto one doesn't have a warrantee then i'll do BAP. I appreciate all the replies. I'll update the post when i get it changed out.

 

Not as complicated as it looks, but one slip and you're out $$
The 3 blue rings on the worm gear, or the white ring on the rack are most likely the cause of your leak.

 

Wow, I bought one last september for $276 shipped, $75 is a huge increase in 9 months time!