Help with 1138 code
Since you have no misfire or codes, that might indicate a plug wire issue, I would suggest you lean more towards replacing both your 02 sensors because of your mileage, then clear the code and see what happens.
Hi Spike555. It is kind of cool here in Chicago.
I changed the spark plugs wire for the Magnecors ones and the car feels with more power to drive.
The car still displays "Check engine" I took the car to the emision test and it fail for these reasons 1." catalytic Converter Eff : not ready"
2.Evaporative control system : not ready.
3. Heated Oxigen sensor : not ready
Oxigen Sensor : READY.
The store diagnostic Trouble code is P1138 that means: Oxigen sensor
Engine rich"codes" AD
If you have an idea what is next to do please let me know.
I changed the spark plugs wire for the Magnecors ones and the car feels with more power to drive.
The car still displays "Check engine" I took the car to the emision test and it fail for these reasons 1." catalytic Converter Eff : not ready"
2.Evaporative control system : not ready.
3. Heated Oxigen sensor : not ready
Oxigen Sensor : READY.
The store diagnostic Trouble code is P1138 that means: Oxigen sensor
Engine rich"codes" AD
If you have an idea what is next to do please let me know.
Well you will need to get the codes cleared and then go from there.
If the check engine light comes back on then you will need to get the codes read again and then figure out what to do next. You will never pass inspection if the light it on, dont even waste your time going if the check engine light is on.
Make sure that your gas cap is on tight, I think that is your EVAP code.
A poor running engine will put the cats out of range as well as the O2's.
Those things could be bad, but the plug wires were the cheapest place to start and will fix 95% of the O2 and cat codes.
So you need to find a shop that will turn off your check engine light for you, AutoZone used to do it but they wont anymore. The other option is to buy a OBDII scanner at the store to check and clear your own codes.
You can buy a cheap scanner for $30.
Let us know how you make out.
If the check engine light comes back on then you will need to get the codes read again and then figure out what to do next. You will never pass inspection if the light it on, dont even waste your time going if the check engine light is on.
Make sure that your gas cap is on tight, I think that is your EVAP code.
A poor running engine will put the cats out of range as well as the O2's.
Those things could be bad, but the plug wires were the cheapest place to start and will fix 95% of the O2 and cat codes.
So you need to find a shop that will turn off your check engine light for you, AutoZone used to do it but they wont anymore. The other option is to buy a OBDII scanner at the store to check and clear your own codes.
You can buy a cheap scanner for $30.
Let us know how you make out.
I do have a 1138. I purchased the 98 Discovery with a blown head gasket and fixed it. It has 96,000 miles on it.
I have:
- replaced the O2's
- changed the plugs
- Cleaned the IAC and TB
- Swapped the MAF with one from another good functioning Discovery
Not sure what to try next.
The 1138 code takes about 150 miles to show up after a reset.
Mike
I have:
- replaced the O2's
- changed the plugs
- Cleaned the IAC and TB
- Swapped the MAF with one from another good functioning Discovery
Not sure what to try next.
The 1138 code takes about 150 miles to show up after a reset.
Mike
just because you didnt see a leak, doesnt mean it wasnt leaking internally. did you do the head gaskets yourself? how clean were your bank 1 pistons when the heads came off... anyway, the code means that the o2 sensor voltage doesnt drop as low as it should when switching, so, you either have a bad sensor or youre not flowing enough air into your cylinders


