Ok, Hope everyone had a merry christmas! So far so good on my T-case....I think I did dodge a bullet on this one. It seems to be leaking a drop overnight, but I'll be checking/flushing it again to look for metal, but I might be okay still. I also want to have the transmission fluid, powersteering and brake fluids flush.Brakes Plus, a local chain repair shopwill do all three for $170 which in my opinion is hard to beat! My question is this...I've read different opinions on whether or not a trans flush is smart to do. They have portable machines that vaccuum out all the fluid instead of just draining 45% of it and refilling it. I guess thats what they mean by flush(?) I've read that the tranmission filter on the Disco II is only a one-time 30K replacement and never again. I assume thats because the transmission is a sealed unit. I checked the fluid and it is full and it is red, not burned or anything.That being said, what do you recommend on the transmission service? And I'm wondering if they can fully flush the brake lines without a TestBook to actuate the ABS solenoids etc. The powersteering box shouldn't be an issue and I assume it takes ATF Dex 3?After what happened with the T-case, I'm anxious to thoroughly take care of every other fluid issue I can! Thanks again for any feedback on this. As always, its greatly appreciated! Happy Holidays!

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If you are up around the 80,000 plus mile mark, don't flush the tranny, it won't take it well, also do just a fluid change and no filter is need on a D2 after the 30K has been done.
Don't worry about bleeding the ABS unit, just the regular brake lines which will take about 2 quarts of fluid.
Be carefull with assumptions, the p/s needs to be flushed, use Vavolines synthetic and at least 1/2 bottl of Lucas power steering additive.
Make sure to do both diffs, using a synthetic 80/90 W fluid, same with the t/case, that is what it came with.

 

Thanks for all the info Mike. Just a drain and fill on the trans then? Maybe 2 or 3 more drain/fills over the next 10K to change it all out slowly versus a total flush. I wasn't sure about the ABS unit as part of the brake flush or not. Any recommendation on the brake fluid? The PS system I figured would be fairly straightforward (versus the others) and I will use Valvoline synthetic w/ good ol Lucas. I'll try to find synthetic 80/90 for the t-case/axles today...and hopefully no metal chunks in the t-case!

 

I just drained the T-case out again...at a different quick lube shop. Last weeks new gear oil came out this week as dirty black slime and sludge but miraculously no obvious metal pieces or shards. I told the dry t-case story to the lube techs and they were kind enough to flush out the box a bit extra until only clean oil flowed out and I had them fill with Valvoline Synthetic Blend 80-90W. Then I had them do all the other flushes...engine oil / coolant/ powersteering/ brakes / except for the transmission ATF drain/fill. They were a bit hesitant on the transmission service due to the procedure required so I may be doing that one myself. I'm happy so far that the grinding in low range is gone! I still do hear the t-case whining sound that builds with speed. Its more pronounced stepping light on the gas and dissapates when coasting. Any ideas there?

 

Tony, you might call me when you get a chance.
303-862-7680
Colorado between 7 am and 8 pm

 

Mike, Thanks for the follow up info on the phone. I appreciate your sharing your wisdom! I haven't gotten around to refilling the T-case with the heavier 175W gear oil yet. To date, the whine hasn't gotten any worse. THe T-case is leaking but it doesn't leave a drip or puddle when parked. The case is wet and seems to be leaking mainly while driving as evidenced by the oil spray all over the rear of the chassis underneath. I can't tell where/which seal would cause this type of spray leak. Knowing this, does it still make sense to go to the thicker grade oil/ Lucas? I'm thinking that the T-case needs to come out sooner than later and swapped out with a good unit. Although, the thicker oil might just be the fix. Any idea? THanks again

 

Getting at the plug to check level(at least on a D1)is not as easy as most 4x4's.

FWIW, rebuilding a transfer case is about as easy as it gets. Not that many parts inside.