Help Diagnosing Stuck Transfer Box
#1
![Question](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Ive done the research and have read what everyone says about spraying penetrating oil all over linkage (AND I HAVE BEEN FOR 3 DAYS).
SO... My next suspicion is a faulty sensor or related wire for the netural safety switch. Are there any suggestions I can do relating to jumpering joints to test or pin outs would be great.
Yes, ive looked at the RAVE, i just want a humans oppinion also![Big Grin](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/lxvR5hR.png)
1998 Discovery I, auto (SE model)
80kmi
SO... My next suspicion is a faulty sensor or related wire for the netural safety switch. Are there any suggestions I can do relating to jumpering joints to test or pin outs would be great.
Yes, ive looked at the RAVE, i just want a humans oppinion also
![Big Grin](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/lxvR5hR.png)
1998 Discovery I, auto (SE model)
80kmi
#2
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd give it alot of oil & time.
The hi/lo function is a rotating motion of the linkage, it probably will work loose if you keep pulling on it. (not too hard)
The difflock function is a sliding side-to-side of the same linkage, IT SUCKS.
The preferred way is to remove console, access is far better, you can even remove top linkage housing. (but it's an all-day job, if you're mechanical)
Then you're done with it.
Do a search, there's a bunch of info about it.
luck,greg
The hi/lo function is a rotating motion of the linkage, it probably will work loose if you keep pulling on it. (not too hard)
The difflock function is a sliding side-to-side of the same linkage, IT SUCKS.
The preferred way is to remove console, access is far better, you can even remove top linkage housing. (but it's an all-day job, if you're mechanical)
Then you're done with it.
Do a search, there's a bunch of info about it.
luck,greg
#4
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
PB Blaster is great!
I make a longer hose and lube the 3 joints.
The rotating selector to lock the diff cannot be seen from under the car but you can reach it.
It is on top of the TC try feeling for it (warning: you need to wrap your arm around the catalitic: make sure they are NOT HOT!) when you have located it, try wiping between the selector and the TC box with a small rag full of PB Blaster, Don't leave it there, it's too close to the cat, it can catch on fire if you forget to remove it.
The real fix is to remove the center console from inside the car and you get a great view of the whole mechanism. I just reach from under but if I were to remove the console, I would insert a fiber washer (like the ones for the battery post anticorrosion) between the actuator and the TC top to keep the grime out and to hold the PB Blaster longer.
SD
I make a longer hose and lube the 3 joints.
The rotating selector to lock the diff cannot be seen from under the car but you can reach it.
It is on top of the TC try feeling for it (warning: you need to wrap your arm around the catalitic: make sure they are NOT HOT!) when you have located it, try wiping between the selector and the TC box with a small rag full of PB Blaster, Don't leave it there, it's too close to the cat, it can catch on fire if you forget to remove it.
The real fix is to remove the center console from inside the car and you get a great view of the whole mechanism. I just reach from under but if I were to remove the console, I would insert a fiber washer (like the ones for the battery post anticorrosion) between the actuator and the TC top to keep the grime out and to hold the PB Blaster longer.
SD
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