Hey Guys,
Got the motor back in and ready for startup and engine break in.

Problem: Key is stuck in the ignition, transmission stuck in park (sorta, because I can roll the vehicle backwards, but not forwards??), and the transfer case selector is stuck in what looks like HI.
Brake lights work.
I removed the key lock solenoid but the key is still stuck.
Key turns both ways as it should, but will NOT come out.
The light for the transfer case in on (large/small gear with a slash through it?) and blinking/beeping.

I don't want to start the motor if there's an issue with the trans.

Any help?

 

Ok... partially fixed....
Got the key out! Turned out to be a bent key! I have a spare that works just fine.
Still will not come out of park unless the lock is pushed in under the lever.
Even in Neutral, the transfer case shifter wont budge.
Appears to be in the lower right quadrant (H) but still getting an amber Two gears meshing warning light on the upper left of the instrument panel.

 

Hows the battery voltage? Brake light switch ?

 

Battery voltage is 12.85v (newish battery)
610CCA out of 700CC
Cranks the motor over very quickly and easily.
The brake lights activate when I press the brake pedal, but I ordered a switch in case it's a dual purpose switch (I'm now at home and the Disco's my shop).

 

Low voltage was also my first thought because I got those symptoms when my truck was in the garage for one month while I worked on the t-case, and charging the battery got rid of that gear icon and everything went back to normal.

 

For those who haven't been following, I bought this vehicle with a frozen motor.
I've since fixed that and I'm about to break in the rebuilt motor, which I've never heard run and also that I've never driven this one either.
I'm not sure what were existing issues as there were no mention of any issues other than an overheat issues then stuck motor (turned out to be a failed oil pump that spun a bearing AND a failed coolant reservoir and head gasket leak.)

 

A bad battery can hold a charge but the CCA can still be not enough for the truck. I just went through this with my wife's truck.

 

Would a bad solenoid in the HI/LO shifter cause it to be stuck? Frozen cable? Can you lock the diff or is that cable froze too?

 

The HI/LO shifter does NOT move in any direction.

The light on the dash indicates its in Neutral.

 

True, but at 87% of original CCA the battery tests out. I'm using my Snap-On D-TAC Elite which is pretty reliable and not one of those chrome toaster battery testers your FLAPS uses.