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Help me butcher a D2 - LS Swapped RWD IFS Conversion

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  #11  
Old 03-06-2017 | 08:59 AM
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Just adding to the list of reasons I might move to TX after school.

No doubt. There's a ton of companies that tune them. I get what you're saying ab it t the 4 speed though. My Silverado has the 4 speed also. I've heard a tune helps a lot. I also put the corvette servo in and that helps firm up the shifts. Still jumps out of overdrive a lot even with the 3.73 gears. It doesn't help that I put 275/70r18s on it, but it had the same issue before hand too.

I was unaware of the ability to just slap on 35s. That's amazing. My D2 is lifted 3.5" and it's getting 35s next time I buy tires. I'm not looking to the trimming and beating that has to happen. Then gears and axles. The plans on have for it are huge, and eventually its going to be a beast. Coilovers, caged, Bob the tail 4-5",make the top and back bolt on/bolt off like an old Blazer, hopefully beadlocks. I'd love to turn the stock rims into beadlock. I'd have to fina a machine shop to mill out the inner rim from aluminum and have it tig welded to the rim and then do the outer ring from steel. Probably have to use more bolts to account for the aluminum, too.
 

Last edited by Alex_M; 03-06-2017 at 09:01 AM.
  #12  
Old 03-06-2017 | 09:25 AM
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Ok, so here's the current thinking. Two options.

First: take the whole front suspension from the donor truck and swap it over. Its a 99-06 Platform Silverado, so torsion bars. Probably will have to modify the k-member somehow whether it be lengthen or shorten. I'm guessing shorten. Same for the steering components. Then one day maybe upgrade it to a long arm kit.

Option #2 is to just buy a long arm kit like this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/121860089879 ) and the fab the k-member and mounting. I'm almost leaning this way. I feel like it will come out nicer and be easier than cutting everything off the frame of the donor truck and re-welding it to the LR frame. This route, I'm guessing ~6k just in front suspension and steering.

Another idea popped into my head also. The rear would definitely get switched to a panhard bar. I'd probably use the one off the front which is what I'm doing on my current D2. Its getting stock front pets off my old donor truck. Then I'm thinking also take the front control arms and put them on the rear. They're something like 10cm longer. I'd have to move the mounts forward on the frame, but that's no big deal.
 
  #13  
Old 03-06-2017 | 09:28 AM
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Oh, I also believe I can retain the factory sway bar setup on the front without too much trouble. I'm thinking shorter links and connect them to the upper control arms. Again, thoughts?
 
  #14  
Old 03-07-2017 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Probably wouldn't do much good. I'd say it would rarely see any traffic and engine swaps would get posted here anyway. Plus, its not like engine swap questions are daily or even weekly events anyway. I'd also argue that this thread is a little more than an engine swap thread.
No I mean so those that want to avoid even seeing another non LR engine swap thread can do so. And this is coming from a guy that has been guilty of posting a motor swap thread. And yes yours is more rediculous than a straight non LR thread. IFS on a Discovery? Just get a 4Runner
 
  #15  
Old 03-07-2017 | 11:25 AM
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Meh, 4 runners are everywhere and I don't like the aesthetics nearly as much. And I'm just saying that for those looking for help not as many members who could give help would traffic that section. I mean, go look at the exhaust section, and exhaust is a way more common mod than an engine swap.

Anyway, I priced out trucks today. Sounding like I could get one with a solid body/frame/interior and already stripped down for around $500. That would save me a lot of work and I'll have a few trucks to choose from, with titles.

I'm going to have to invest in a gas tank for my welder. Tank plus gas, there goes another, what, $200? Probably buy a 10lb spool of flux core also, so another $50.

$200 for rear springs and shocks. $75 for brake lines. Keep the rear drums that are on the Chevy Axle and change out the proportioning valve or swap to disc brakes? Can I leave the ABS in place and just unhooked or will I have to either run new lines or get some kind of system to connect them together?

I'm guessing $6k in front suspension and steering.

$300 for wiring. Truck already has steel rims, but they look pretty bad. Lets estimate $1300 for steel rims and tires. These rims and
these tires these tires
. Add mount and balance. Spare mount adapter made from 1/2" plate, regular old lugs, and I'll weld it onto the factory bracket after cutting off the lugs that are in the factory spare mount. That's all parts that I have access to for free.

$220 for a tune from BlackBear tuning.

I don't know if the truck is 2wd or 4wd. I think its 4wd. $500 for driveshaft. I'll try to trade the 4wd trans and xfer case for a 2wd trans.

$100 for diy intake and filter like I made for my D2.

$200 for a good battery.

$300 in gauges and accessories.

$200 in fluids, though I think I have most of them.

$250 for 4.10 gears in the back.

$150 for fuel pump.

$100 for fuel pressure regulator.

$200 for all fuel lines.

$300 for all new brakes.

$170 for shorty headers. Hopefully the factory y-pipe is usable and will fit. If not it may get long tubes which are like $270 if they'll fit. Again, if not, swap headers are also $170. I'm going to assume factory y-pipe fits until I measure frame rails. Custom 3" catback will be dumped before the rear wheel, so exhaust will only run about $300 plus headers.

Needs an alternator. Guessing $150.

Serpentine belt will be about $25.

I'm going to guess $1200 for the donor truck.

It's pretty trashed outside but runs and drives. That brings the total to $12,990 estimated total. I am sure there are things I'm overlooking that will have to be addressed, but this is preliminary. If anyone sees anything I'm missing then please throw it in. I'm adding $3000 for unaccounted costs for now. That's actually only a couple grand more than my rough head guess, so I'm pretty happy so far.

Edit: Ok, since the front suspension will be last, I've devised a plan to have matching wheels. I'm thinking I'll get some 3/4" steel plate. I'll make a set of adapter plates that will bolt up to the factory spindle, then I'll have the center hole milled and bolt holes drilled and tapped to accept the Chevy front hub. That way it will already be set up for the Chevy brakes and wheels up front and I'll be able to drive it as well as rotate the tires like normal. Thoughts?

Edit 2: I'm going to need a way to shift the transmission, now that I think about it. Debating whether I can modify the stock D2 shifter to shift the 4l60e or if I will have to go aftermarket. Definitely want the center shifter instead of a column shifter which the Silverado had stock.

Edit 3: I'm looking at Shade Tree's LS swap thread right now. Looks like the LR shifter can be used with a little help. I'm assuming the same will be true for the hand brake. He also seems to have used the stock LR gauges. I'll be doing more reading in that thread to see what my options are on some different stuff. Especially things like having blinkers, climate control, and windows work. I will be researching his thread very closely. For anyone curious, you can find his thread here.

Also looks like I'll be able to use the LR fuel system, so that's a cost removed. That said, looks like that cost will be eaten back up by exhaust. Going to have to do the engine swap headers and a custom y-pipe. Not too upset. That will give me more control over final product I suppose.

Edit 4: I'm adding this edit solely to save links to specific posts for myself.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e4/#post433916

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e7/#post440189

Edit 5: Looking at electrical right now. Debating between three options.

1.) Leave all the LR electrical and just work around it, hating myself when it's done and not as clean as I'd like.
2.) Hate myself while I carefully pick through ALL of the LR electrical and remove everything not required.
3.) Remove all of the LR electrical and then hate myself when I have to re-wire everything from scratch and make everything work. I'd probably remove all of the LR climate control equip and switch to manual seats so that I only had to worry about windows and lights if that were the case, and the LR gauge cluster would definitely get tossed.

Throw me some opinions on these options.
 

Last edited by Alex_M; 03-07-2017 at 02:30 PM.
  #16  
Old 03-07-2017 | 04:49 PM
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look at offer up in the VB area, 2 discos for $500. bodies looked good.
 
  #17  
Old 03-07-2017 | 05:38 PM
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I helped a friend do a 5.3 swap on a 2WD Jeep XJ. It was a total cakewalk. We even used an OEM oil pan and exhaust manifolds. I haven't taken a close look at the Discovery chassis, but I'm not sure why you couldn't just keep the front end stock like we did on the Jeep. The engine bay seems bigger. If you want it 2WD, just pull the front propshaft.
 
  #18  
Old 03-07-2017 | 05:49 PM
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Sounds like a cool project, one thing I'd do different is go with the 4L80E instead of the 4L60E. I used to have a 4th gen F-body with a 6 speed and the other people in the club that had the 4L60E auto's started to have torque converter and other internal trans problems with almost no mods and just harder use. Once they upgraded to the 4L80E their trans issues went away.
 
  #19  
Old 03-07-2017 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Meh, 4 runners are everywhere and I don't like the aesthetics nearly as much. And I'm just saying that for those looking for help not as many members who could give help would traffic that section. I mean, go look at the exhaust section, and exhaust is a way more common mod than an engine swap.

Anyway, I priced out trucks today. Sounding like I could get one with a solid body/frame/interior and already stripped down for around $500. That would save me a lot of work and I'll have a few trucks to choose from, with titles.

I'm going to have to invest in a gas tank for my welder. Tank plus gas, there goes another, what, $200? Probably buy a 10lb spool of flux core also, so another $50.

$200 for rear springs and shocks. $75 for brake lines. Keep the rear drums that are on the Chevy Axle and change out the proportioning valve or swap to disc brakes? Can I leave the ABS in place and just unhooked or will I have to either run new lines or get some kind of system to connect them together?

I'm guessing $6k in front suspension and steering.

$300 for wiring. Truck already has steel rims, but they look pretty bad. Lets estimate $1300 for steel rims and tires. These rims and these tires. Add mount and balance. Spare mount adapter made from 1/2" plate, regular old lugs, and I'll weld it onto the factory bracket after cutting off the lugs that are in the factory spare mount. That's all parts that I have access to for free.

$220 for a tune from BlackBear tuning.

I don't know if the truck is 2wd or 4wd. I think its 4wd. $500 for driveshaft. I'll try to trade the 4wd trans and xfer case for a 2wd trans.

$100 for diy intake and filter like I made for my D2.

$200 for a good battery.

$300 in gauges and accessories.

$200 in fluids, though I think I have most of them.

$250 for 4.10 gears in the back.

$150 for fuel pump.

$100 for fuel pressure regulator.

$200 for all fuel lines.

$300 for all new brakes.

$170 for shorty headers. Hopefully the factory y-pipe is usable and will fit. If not it may get long tubes which are like $270 if they'll fit. Again, if not, swap headers are also $170. I'm going to assume factory y-pipe fits until I measure frame rails. Custom 3" catback will be dumped before the rear wheel, so exhaust will only run about $300 plus headers.

Needs an alternator. Guessing $150.

Serpentine belt will be about $25.

I'm going to guess $1200 for the donor truck.

It's pretty trashed outside but runs and drives. That brings the total to $12,990 estimated total. I am sure there are things I'm overlooking that will have to be addressed, but this is preliminary. If anyone sees anything I'm missing then please throw it in. I'm adding $3000 for unaccounted costs for now. That's actually only a couple grand more than my rough head guess, so I'm pretty happy so far.

Edit: Ok, since the front suspension will be last, I've devised a plan to have matching wheels. I'm thinking I'll get some 3/4" steel plate. I'll make a set of adapter plates that will bolt up to the factory spindle, then I'll have the center hole milled and bolt holes drilled and tapped to accept the Chevy front hub. That way it will already be set up for the Chevy brakes and wheels up front and I'll be able to drive it as well as rotate the tires like normal. Thoughts?

Edit 2: I'm going to need a way to shift the transmission, now that I think about it. Debating whether I can modify the stock D2 shifter to shift the 4l60e or if I will have to go aftermarket. Definitely want the center shifter instead of a column shifter which the Silverado had stock.

Edit 3: I'm looking at Shade Tree's LS swap thread right now. Looks like the LR shifter can be used with a little help. I'm assuming the same will be true for the hand brake. He also seems to have used the stock LR gauges. I'll be doing more reading in that thread to see what my options are on some different stuff. Especially things like having blinkers, climate control, and windows work. I will be researching his thread very closely. For anyone curious, you can find his thread here.

Also looks like I'll be able to use the LR fuel system, so that's a cost removed. That said, looks like that cost will be eaten back up by exhaust. Going to have to do the engine swap headers and a custom y-pipe. Not too upset. That will give me more control over final product I suppose.

Edit 4: I'm adding this edit solely to save links to specific posts for myself.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e4/#post433916

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e7/#post440189

Edit 5: Looking at electrical right now. Debating between three options.

1.) Leave all the LR electrical and just work around it, hating myself when it's done and not as clean as I'd like.
2.) Hate myself while I carefully pick through ALL of the LR electrical and remove everything not required.
3.) Remove all of the LR electrical and then hate myself when I have to re-wire everything from scratch and make everything work. I'd probably remove all of the LR climate control equip and switch to manual seats so that I only had to worry about windows and lights if that were the case, and the LR gauge cluster would definitely get tossed.

Throw me some opinions on these options.

I mean this in the best possible way.


You need to get laid .
 
  #20  
Old 03-07-2017 | 08:45 PM
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From: Bham, Alabama
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Originally Posted by Frank4
I mean this in the best possible way.


You need to get laid .
LMFAO
 


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