not all scanners read trans codes. it could go up to 30 a few weeks ago, has it gotten worse? when it wont let you go over 10 or so, does the engine rev up or bog out? if the new maf is good, youre either looking tranny or cam.

 

Am I correct in assuming that TPS has already been ruled out?

 

ok, so tranny is ruled out (mostly...) what is TPS?
verdict on cam position sensor before i go spend the $250 to pick it up today?
i have NOT found anyone out here to swap out MAFs with to cross check mine with yet.
today i have the money in hand to either replace the cam position sensor OR go get a new MAF with.
im still baffled by the fact that i am NOT getting error codes or a check engine light coming on...

btw what tools do i need to change out the cam sensor? difficulty?


thnks again guys!

 

TPS is your Throttle Position Sensor. Basically it's a potentiometer which tells the computer what position you're throttle body butterfly is at - so it can send either more or less fuel. If it goes bad, you won't get the necessary increase fuel flow when you step on the gas. The computer takes the readings from your TPS, and compares it with input from your Cam & Crank sensors to measure speed and load so it can adjust fuel and spark to match the current needs. When one of these sensors is out of kilter - then the computer has an incomplete set of information for comparison. Since you're not having problems with the engine stalling and refusing to start back up - then I'd rule out the speed/crank sensor. One of the typical symptoms of cam sensors is that the vehicle will often stall when the engine state changes from loaded to unloaded (like when you slow down for a stoplight). And a typical bad TPS symptom is that the motor will only rev to a certain point before bogging. Then it'll bog and refuse to increase until you back off the throttle to a certain point. But usually the motor will sit perfectly at idle all day. That sounds a lot like what you've described. Hopefully Mike can share some additional insight - but that was my first guess upon reading the symptoms you described.

 

with the price of the parts and repairs taht you may or may not be looking at, you need to get it actually checked out. it could be many different things. how did you rule out trans? has it gotten worse, or was it just this bad all of a sudden? if you use low range, do you get up to the same speed or the same rpm before it dies out? how is it actually running, do a vacuum test, probably where i would start with this and no codes in the system. get it checked out, anything you get from here is nothing more then an edjucated guess... if youre willing to pay a 300 or so for a new sensor, go spend the 100 to make sure that youre right on what it needs. take it to someone that knows what theyre doing, i wouldnt use a gas station, but thats a personal opinion

 

the problem is that the nearest rover dealership is a half hour away and the vehicle barely makes it to the autozone a block away...

 

Tow truck.
Use your towing rider on your insurance policy to pay for the tow.
Thats what I did when the fuel pump went out on my wifes car.

 

This may be off base however since you do enjoy wheelin' check your exhaust pipe, make sure its not crimped anywhere or bent over.


Robert

 

not off base at all. in fact discomike suggested this earlier in the week. exhaust is clear of obstruction.
thank you though.
i have placed my order for a OBDII scanner with laptop hookup so when it arrives i will promptly put the info i gleam from it the forum. hopefully with the new information we shall have enough info to sort this mess out.

jaynes