Help needed badly
#11
RE: Help needed badly
Nothing is redundant at this moment. I am beginning to suspect the T-stat myself. Talked to a guy about the sleevs dropping. This was according to him a problem on old D1:s but not D2:s. Tomorrow I will flush the system and try to bypass the T-stat with somthing home made and see what happens. Tips are still most appreciated.
///P
///P
#13
RE: Help needed badly
Gents,
Now I think I have tried everything and the bl-y thing keeps building up over pressure in the cooling system and overheats. I simply have no more ideas. To recap: Rebuilt clinder heads, pressure tested inlet manifold, new gaskets, spark plugs ok, no water in oil, compression test ok, fushed the cooling system, tried Holts Wondarweld. Did bypass the T-stat.......
HELP!
///Peter
Now I think I have tried everything and the bl-y thing keeps building up over pressure in the cooling system and overheats. I simply have no more ideas. To recap: Rebuilt clinder heads, pressure tested inlet manifold, new gaskets, spark plugs ok, no water in oil, compression test ok, fushed the cooling system, tried Holts Wondarweld. Did bypass the T-stat.......
HELP!
///Peter
#15
RE: Help needed badly
If every part of the cooling system works then its possible you have an air pocket trapped in the system. How are you filling/bleeding it?
Taken from the manual...
- Release top hose from retaining lugs on the fan cowl, leaving the hose to rest on the lugs.
- Remove bleed screw from top hose.
- Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
- Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres.
- Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cmvertically, coolant will drain into the system.
- Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
- Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
- Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
- Refit the top hose into its lugs on the fan cowl.
- Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
- Switch off engine and allow to cool.
- Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level mark on expansion tank
Taken from the manual...
- Release top hose from retaining lugs on the fan cowl, leaving the hose to rest on the lugs.
- Remove bleed screw from top hose.
- Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
- Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres.
- Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cmvertically, coolant will drain into the system.
- Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
- Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
- Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
- Refit the top hose into its lugs on the fan cowl.
- Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
- Switch off engine and allow to cool.
- Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level mark on expansion tank
#17
RE: Help needed badly
OK I'm way out of my league here but could there be a problem with the heater core? What happens when you turn on the heater? That's another part of the cooling system so maybe there's something going on there?
Hope that can be of help, otherwise best of luck!
Walter
Hope that can be of help, otherwise best of luck!
Walter
#18
RE: Help needed badly
Walter,
I doubt heater core. Heater works fine as long as there is water in the system. Nobody has mentionned water pump, could this be the failing part, I fitted a new gasket but could ther be a leak in the punp shaft that allows air to be sucked into the system?
///P
I doubt heater core. Heater works fine as long as there is water in the system. Nobody has mentionned water pump, could this be the failing part, I fitted a new gasket but could ther be a leak in the punp shaft that allows air to be sucked into the system?
///P
#19
RE: Help needed badly
Epeteha,
That makes sense about the heater core so you're probably right. One other thought; when I had my old Mercedes W124 it was notorious for the vanes on the water pump to pretty much wear off over time, I know it was replaced once before I bought it with 114k and also I had to replace one @ 220k so maybe the pump's just not circulating? I don't know what's involved in replacing a pump on a rover but I know it was relatively painless on an old '68 Chevy pickup inline 6 that I drove in high school. Man I should still be driving that thing!
Also did you put permatex on the gasket to make sure it was sealed? I know I've done that in the past when replacing gaskets in various locations....
Best of luck,
Walter
That makes sense about the heater core so you're probably right. One other thought; when I had my old Mercedes W124 it was notorious for the vanes on the water pump to pretty much wear off over time, I know it was replaced once before I bought it with 114k and also I had to replace one @ 220k so maybe the pump's just not circulating? I don't know what's involved in replacing a pump on a rover but I know it was relatively painless on an old '68 Chevy pickup inline 6 that I drove in high school. Man I should still be driving that thing!
Also did you put permatex on the gasket to make sure it was sealed? I know I've done that in the past when replacing gaskets in various locations....
Best of luck,
Walter
#20
RE: Help needed badly
Ok, it might be the pump. You only have about 59K miles, for the standards folks on here, and that isn't much. I hate to just throw parts at a truck, but I think after all the avenues you have been down, this might be the next step. I would recommend replacing the T-stat when you do this, and maybe also the idler pulley.
First thing, you may want to pull the bleeder screw from the top of the radiator (with the engine cold), if yours is there, and start it. Just run it at little to see if your coolant is flowing. It seems to me that you either have a restriction, or no flow at all.
I was curious earlier as to how you "bypassed" the T-stat. I don't know if you have a D1 like me, so I am going to post a pic of my engine. Does yours look like mine?
[IMG]local://upfiles/5440/A67B96CF410C4AD1B5AB60D658FE525D.jpg[/IMG]
First thing, you may want to pull the bleeder screw from the top of the radiator (with the engine cold), if yours is there, and start it. Just run it at little to see if your coolant is flowing. It seems to me that you either have a restriction, or no flow at all.
I was curious earlier as to how you "bypassed" the T-stat. I don't know if you have a D1 like me, so I am going to post a pic of my engine. Does yours look like mine?
[IMG]local://upfiles/5440/A67B96CF410C4AD1B5AB60D658FE525D.jpg[/IMG]