Help... oil pressure topic
#1
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Got coolant flushed yesterday... left about a few hours later and oil pressure gauge is blinking 16 PSI as I was driving down the road. Parked it. Checked oil level and engine bay. Restarted it and it went back to normal at 21-24 PSI. Paranoid now as I'm in the Vin range.
I have oil around pump and have for the last few months but oil pressure has been:
- 20-24 hot idle
- 51-56 2K cold idle
- 30-mid 40's on the road driving
Recommendations?
How do I know if if the pump has to be replaced vs. gear? I know the dowels don't align w/new design.
Any success w/just gear replaced?
Thanks-
I have oil around pump and have for the last few months but oil pressure has been:
- 20-24 hot idle
- 51-56 2K cold idle
- 30-mid 40's on the road driving
Recommendations?
How do I know if if the pump has to be replaced vs. gear? I know the dowels don't align w/new design.
Any success w/just gear replaced?
Thanks-
Last edited by Zonk872; 12-14-2011 at 06:30 AM. Reason: more info.
#2
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IMHO you are low on PSI when at speed, 30 seems low. But this could also be your oil PSI sensor is off by some pounds.
Pix of cracked pump, would think both parts should change to keep from having increased wear on one new / one old piece meshing together.
Here is spec from the RAVE shop manual, general data section.
Before opening front cover, might want to do a mechanical gauge test to verify your sender. Oil viscosity? Could also be crap being sucked up on the the intake screen in the oil pan.
Not sure if your truck has one, all D1 and some D2 have oil cooler, but D2 after a certain VIN number don't. An oil cooler can plug up and restrict flow.
Pix of cracked pump, would think both parts should change to keep from having increased wear on one new / one old piece meshing together.
Here is spec from the RAVE shop manual, general data section.
Lubrication
Type Wet sump, pressure fed
Pump type Crankshaft driven eccentric rotor
Oil filter Disposable canister with full flow by-pass
Pressure at idle - minimum 0.7 bar (10 lbf.in2)
Pressure at 2000 rev/min (hot) 3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Relief valve opening pressure 3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Low oil pressure switch opening pressure 0.24-0.41 bar (3.5-6.0 lbf.in2)Type Wet sump, pressure fed
Pump type Crankshaft driven eccentric rotor
Oil filter Disposable canister with full flow by-pass
Pressure at idle - minimum 0.7 bar (10 lbf.in2)
Pressure at 2000 rev/min (hot) 3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Relief valve opening pressure 3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Before opening front cover, might want to do a mechanical gauge test to verify your sender. Oil viscosity? Could also be crap being sucked up on the the intake screen in the oil pan.
Not sure if your truck has one, all D1 and some D2 have oil cooler, but D2 after a certain VIN number don't. An oil cooler can plug up and restrict flow.
#3
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Those numbers look pretty strong to me.
You may have had your lights on while you started your car. That will put your digital guage in setting mode. The display will flash with the last number that was on it when you turned off the car. When you turn off and on the car again it will act normal. Or just turn your lights on and off.
I would not be worried.
You may have had your lights on while you started your car. That will put your digital guage in setting mode. The display will flash with the last number that was on it when you turned off the car. When you turn off and on the car again it will act normal. Or just turn your lights on and off.
I would not be worried.
#4
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Note- I will take more readings as I get up to speed to document the psi ratings as it climbs from 10 mph to 50 mph. The rating I mentioned was off the top of my head not noted in increments on paper. Hopefully the 30 psi setting will be corrected in my test drive today.
I did forget to mention that the blinking rating did happen at night as I left the parking lot and drove down the road. I had driven about a block with kids in back seat not paying attention to the gauge. It was blinking at 16 psi and did not change even as I was up to speed at 45 mph. There was nothing different in terms of driveability:
- no shaking
- no loud noise
- no loss of power
- no red oil light on dash
I have seen 'setting mode' which brings some comfort. I rechecked the oil (dip stick) and did a one over of the oil pump and engine bay this morning. I started it up and here are the settings:
Cold Start 57psi
Idle 29psi Intake Air temp 64.4F Engine temp 197.2F
Last Idle 22psi Intake Air temp 91.4F Engine temp 208.4F
Note- I sat in the Disco and noted these readings for about 15- 20 minutes until the last Idle rating stayed consistent. The Last Idle ratings stayed the same for about 5 minutes and then I shut it down. This was done in the park position.
I also drove it around the parking lot 10 mph studying the oil pressure. I will take it on a test drive 1-3 miles to see if anything changes.
I did forget to mention that the blinking rating did happen at night as I left the parking lot and drove down the road. I had driven about a block with kids in back seat not paying attention to the gauge. It was blinking at 16 psi and did not change even as I was up to speed at 45 mph. There was nothing different in terms of driveability:
- no shaking
- no loud noise
- no loss of power
- no red oil light on dash
I have seen 'setting mode' which brings some comfort. I rechecked the oil (dip stick) and did a one over of the oil pump and engine bay this morning. I started it up and here are the settings:
Cold Start 57psi
Idle 29psi Intake Air temp 64.4F Engine temp 197.2F
Last Idle 22psi Intake Air temp 91.4F Engine temp 208.4F
Note- I sat in the Disco and noted these readings for about 15- 20 minutes until the last Idle rating stayed consistent. The Last Idle ratings stayed the same for about 5 minutes and then I shut it down. This was done in the park position.
I also drove it around the parking lot 10 mph studying the oil pressure. I will take it on a test drive 1-3 miles to see if anything changes.
Last edited by Zonk872; 12-14-2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: more notes
#7
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I'm with Mike, but I have always wanted to ask why the spec for a D1 hot at speed is 30 - 40 PSI , and the D2 (from general data above ) is 50 PSI?
From RAVE on D1 4.0:
From RAVE on D1 4.0:
Oil pressure .11 to 2.81 kg/cm
2 (30 to 40 psi) at 2400 rev/min with engine warm
I thought the short blocks were pretty close....
Now back to the OP, if sensor is off, that might show up with mechanical gauge test. There have been posts about these electric add on sensors being off more than a few PSI. Also, wiring is part of the picture, if DIY cable had an issue, would after market gauge show "0" or "last good reading"?
Certainly if you are driving down the road and oil PSI drops to 50% of what it was, no matter calibration of gauge, you'ld want to know why, even if it returns to normal. Buit what would make oil PSI spike "low" ? Filter problem? RTV floating around? Gunk on oil pickup strainer?
I thought the short blocks were pretty close....
Now back to the OP, if sensor is off, that might show up with mechanical gauge test. There have been posts about these electric add on sensors being off more than a few PSI. Also, wiring is part of the picture, if DIY cable had an issue, would after market gauge show "0" or "last good reading"?
Certainly if you are driving down the road and oil PSI drops to 50% of what it was, no matter calibration of gauge, you'ld want to know why, even if it returns to normal. Buit what would make oil PSI spike "low" ? Filter problem? RTV floating around? Gunk on oil pickup strainer?
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