I bought my first disco with 90K miles several months ago, much like yourself thinking that it is a super tough, stout *** truck, it's high-end, trail-tested reliable beast...without doing much research. A few days later the engine was ticking and check engine light saying "hey, nice to meet you sucka!" Then a week later the water pump blew up, had a collision and destroyed half the front clip seeing as how it's ALL plastic and aluminum!!! Then it was one thing after another every week for a couple of months. I couldn't help but think "WHA THE F?!? F'N PIECE OF F'N S! GD S FOR LUCK, CANT F'N TAKE THIS S ANYMORE!!! I just replaced everything but the block, basically, and refreshed all of the fluids and got it where it's supposed to be. I actually have a lot of confidence in my ride, now and feel proud for what that is worth. Everyone I know thought (still think) I was/ am nuts doing nothing but turning wrenches on a newly purchased vehicle everyday. Believe it or not you can make that truck sturdy if you want to put the time and money into it. And know this if you haven't read up on it already, absolutely get the diagnostics on your Discos vitals before you do anything. If I were you I would not even drive it around until you find out exactly what your oil pressure is and the coolant temperature at full operation. Your temp gauge does not work, the truck probably runs hotter than it should, and the oil pump gears tend to crack or break altogether. Your temp shouldn't be over 200 F and you can search threads to see what oil pressure needs to be. If you don't investigate this now and update what you need to then, well, you will really see a piece of junk. Quick! Heed my words, friend. Good luck with your new purchase and read every thread on here and absolutely do the high mileage service that is posted at the top of the threads board

 

I stand corrected.

Hey if you require assistance, there are a lot of guys on here that would help.

If not, I'm not gonna be the one to stop you. All I ask is, what conditionr is your instrument cluster shroud in and before you choose to blow this truck up, would you consider selling me said shroud?

 

Am I to take it you're not a happy bunny with LR today

 

Ok, gents. The transfer gear box is no longer stuck in neutral. The engine turns over but it still will not start and yes, the battery is good and brand new. I swear that the fuel system is not delivering fuel. But, where in the hell are the fuel lines? Do I have to take off all kinds of apparatus to get to where I can disconnect a fuel intake to see if gasoline is being pumped? I feel like a monkey that's trying to f*&K a football.

 

There is a fuel pressure port to the driver side of the engine. Tough to get to,but it's there.

 

There is a Schrader Valve behind the upper intake (by the coil) if you are looking to check fuel pressure. It's circled in the picture below.


It sound like you may have a dead CPS (crankshaft position sensor). It's a common part to fail and yes it will keep your truck from starting. When mine failed I was driving 60mph and it just cut out. It sounds a lot like your issue. The good news- It a cheap part (by land rover standards) and the sensor is easy to get to. The bad news- The plug for the sensor is very difficult to get unplugged and plugged back in.

Here is the part # ERR7354G
Autozone has an aftermarket one-Duralast/Crankshaft Position Sensor SU5570 at AutoZone.com - 1 reviews
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Definitely worth hooking up a scan tool with live data and make sure you've got an RPM reading. If not, your crank position sensor is probably no good.
If you turn the key to the ON position, you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds, then shut off.

 

Ok. I'm thinking here (smoke signals). I am NOT receiving an RPM reading. With all things possible, could I have a bad fuel pump AND a bad CPS? OR, by the CPS not picking up the position of the crankshaft, a power signal is not being sent back to the fuel delivery system and thus, energizing the fuel pump?

 

It is possible that both the pump and the CPS are bad, but I would replace the CPS first, then see what happens. The CPS tells the ECU when to fire the plugs and fuel injectors. The fuel pump should run either way when the key is put in the ON position for a second or two and then should turn back on when the engine is cranking and/or running. You should be able to hear it prime when you turn the key on.
If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, you can push in the schrader valve and see if fuel sprays out of it. That won't tell you how much pressure you have, but will indicate whether there's fuel pressure at all. If you're going to try this, prime it up a few times by turning the key on and back off a few times, or cranking the engine for a few seconds just before checking.
Good Luck!

 

Found were the CPS is located. Took the Exhaust off and hell, my hands are still too big to work in that tiny space. Been trying for a few hours now. I've already got to experience the process of replacing the ignition coils and the old ones are still behind the engine block. I built the plug wires myself and the ignition coils were relocated on a bracket that a made myself. I'll try a new fuel pump first and if that does not solve the issue, perhaps I can find a way to bypass the CPS.