Sorry, here in the states ##K means thousand.
It cannot be towed with just the front off the ground becasue it is full-time-four-wheel-drive. So when they try to move it the rear wheels are going to try to turn the front wheels, and something is going to give, and it will be expensive.
Personally, if it is a short drive, I would drive it straight there keeping a eye on the temp gauge. I dont know how far 16km is, but I do know that one km is shorter than one mile.
And make sure that the coolant level is full before you leave.
Do NOT overheat the engine, it will be toast if you do.

 

Also don't rule out the idler/tensioner pulley either. Try turning them by hand they should operate in a fluid motion. if they turn and it feels bumpy or has resistance replace them.

 

Took my lr2 in for road noise. Rear diff pinions and bearings need to be changed. Costing me 1500. Apparently lr2's are famous for this. Few days before taking it in I noticed noise in the front engine. When you step on the gas and brake give it a little gas it starts knocking. Mechanic says its timing chain and 3500 to fix. This is crazy.

 

Check idler and tensioner pulleys too.

 

Did you ever find out what the problem was?

 

I did. It was 2 little seals in the rear diff. Which Landrover is famous for. The parts are 5 dollars a piece, but the mechanic had to drop the rear diff and open it replace the seals and put new oil. Which is so expensive. But he only charged me 1,400.
The last mechanic also left something loose inside as well. He tightened it up.
Since then i have to to replace 2 rear wheel bearings. Shocks and struts too.
This truck is a money pit. I think brand new is the way to go. At least with a warranty i dont get stuck with tons of bills.

 

Exactly why these trucks are cheap to buy...

 

Just goes to show how noises can travel & bounce far from where you initially think to start tracking.. Such as under the hood of a d2 to the rear diff of an Lr2