For those of you who bypassed the interior fuse panel by using an inline fuse for the A/C blower, did you use the same power supply wire (brown w/ pink) to supply BOTH the front and rear A/C inline fuses that you added? (so this question only applies to Discos with rear air)

Thanks,
Bryan

 

Update.... I studied this more and decided the answer to my question is yes. I tried the bypass last night, and nada. Fans still don't work. Then I checked the power wire coming from the underhood fuse box, and guess what, it has no voltage. Fuselink 4 is good, but the connector directly next to it with the power supply wire (brown/pink) running to the interior fuse block is dead. Guess I'll figure a way to jumper the cold side of Fuselink 4 to the brown/pink wire in the connector and see if that works (or just fix the bad connection if I can find where it's happening).

So, my bypass probably wasn't needed, but at least that will eliminate a potential problem in the future.

 

Im having same a/c blower problem ... I changed out fuse panel even and tested both my oldone and new one andthey are good afterall, fuse in engine good too but havent chelced connector yet.. Its been pissing rain here in south florida for 2 blankety blank blank weeks and mostly on days im off so its hot and steamy going to work lol anyway, i have another funny issue... My a/c climate control of course shows celcius as i unplugged battery when changing fuse panel and when i went to change it the F by holding power and recirculation button for 3 seconds til it beeps ll it stays on celcius and does not change... Also when i turn on a/c climate controls i see what looks like PC or most likley 0C for celcius but not sure... Im wondering if my CC head is bad? Im hoping for no rain in am so i can test the blower itself by jumping it to battery... I was fiddling down by the blower last week for a minute tapping on it and just fiddling around with my fingers trying to see if i could feel something loose then the blower started working! For a week then stopped agian ... Could have been coincidence...hmmm this is a PITA deal when A/c or lack of is guaranteed! Hahaha

 

I have been dealing with this issue along with chasing a cooling leak around the engine bay. I had just decided to run a wire with inline fuse from FL4 to the under-dash fuse panel when it started working again. When it stops again, that's what I'll do. I plan to run a heavier gauge wire into the under-dash area and split it off to two inline fuses, then to spade connectors to plug into the front and rear fan fuse positions. I had tested this temporarily with a jumper with a spring clip to the positive terminal on the battery, inline 30A fuse to the under-dash fuse panel and had the fan running. I took it apart and buttoned everything up until I could do the fix and it started working by itself.

 

Im wondering if there is any way to know its not the head unit? mine turns on but having that issue that it will not allow me to change to F is making me wonder... plus there is no reference anyplace here or on RAVe that I have found addressing this... mostly its just the fuse block or some relay... I do have to rule out the motor but if the motor starts running occassionally.. then Id guess its ok... im not sure if it is a brushless or not but my old Sterling 825SL had brushes and it was easier to just replace motor and it started working again...

 

I have one more question... I hear that the Brown/pink wire is for the front blower but is the brown/pink going in to fuse block from engine Fusable link 4 and that going into battery? or is the brown/pink going to the motor itself? I may have misread but I see many references to this wire B/P but not the wire that goes over to the motor... unless that is the wire.. and if so.. what is the wire coming to the fuse block and then to the fan motor? maybe its on the front? Im not sure which way the juice flows! lol

 

Okay, here goes:

Flow is from battery to engine fuse box, through box to fuselink 4, through fuselink 4, back through engine fuse box to connectors feeding out of box, then from the connector with the brown with pink wire through that wire, then wire splits into two runs with second run feeding the rear air if equipped, both runs go to the rear of the interior fuse box, the respective connectors feed through the box to the respective fuses, go back through the box to connectors on the back, then go straight to their respective blowers(if rear equipped).

Problem is usually the feed through the box internally.

 

Ok thats what i thought... Only problem is... What wire colors goto blower? Lol thats the hidden secret i cant seem to find here haahha .... I see at the blower itself the are blue wires , are they in that same connector the brown /pink one is?

 

From my fix it post a few years ago:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...m-fixed-22524/

 

great! very informative but I still dont know what wire that 30amp bypass connects too?? in instructions you said to pull 584 and put a bypass on it.. but where too? form how I understand it, I pulled connector... put a 30amp fuse connector... one wire to the brown/red and the other just floating around... what color wire does this connect too? Or do I fish a wire back up to Fuseable link 4 through firewall?