What I did when I ran my test jumper wire was to pull the blower fuse from the under-dash fuse block, put a spade connector on the jumper with the in-line 30A fuse and plug the spade into to left side of the blower fuse holder.

 

ahhh ok I see... that was what I kind of thought... so there would be a wire going around the outside of the under dash fusebox ... and which ever wire takes the current back out to blower is from another connector.... nice! and I guess if we knew that exact wire we could just jump to that one and leave the fuse box alone on front... but that would be more testing.... Im going to try this as SOON as this dang rain stops... Ironically at 90degF and raining... its pretty crappy driving to work with windows up and no fan lol

 

Just to be completely clear, if and when my blower stops working again and I have to do this fix, I'll be running a wire from the engine bay fuse block from FL4 around the engine bay, through the firewall, in-line fuse holder to spade connector into the left side of the blower fuse position.

 

nice! well my dang volt gauge ( cheap one) fizzled out so as free as this modification is... Im still out 160 bucks! hahaha ( FLUKE 117 ) I think I will get instead of the epay clone FLIKE version... lol

 

If you have power on the brown with pink wire where it connects to the rear of the interior fuse block (both wires, if rear air) then remove wire(s) from connector(s) and attach to inline fuse of appropriate size (30amp front blower, 25amp rear air).

If you do not have power on the brown with pink wire(s) then run a new wire(s) of sufficient gauge from fuselink 4 (cold side) to area behind interior fuse block and attach respective inline fuses

Either option above, you now have fused power supply from the blower power circuit. You are now ready to attach wires from respective blowers to this inline fused power supply.

Below is a cut and paste from my fixed blower post. The connector(s) on the back of the interior fuse block are described as well as the color of the wire to pull out of the connector. Connect the wire(s) to the other end of the respective inline fuse(s).


I pulled the fuseblock and attached directly to the wires out (cold side) on the back. For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor, of which I attached my 25 amp bypass wire. Put clip back(without y/g wire) and replace connector. The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. Pull it out the same way. I connected it to the 30 amp bypass wire. Fix clip (without b/r wire) and replace the connector. Button everything up.

 

Press Recirculate FIRST, then press Power and hold till beep. If you press both at the same time, it does what yours is doing.

 

Hahaha thanks! I figured that ut by accident lol im at the moment bypassing the fusebox under dash... Everything else works but im gettting 3v st the motor, i jumped it to 12v and it worked perfectly... Im wondering... Do i actually have to plug that brown/red wire back into the fuse box? Im thinking no. Just bypass and run to front left side of fuse with an inoine 30amp... I drove home with it B/R completly removed and capped off... Truck ran grreat and all lights and everything worked... Mayter of fact i think its driven better than it has ever driven! Hmmmm lol (no ac though) lol

 

How do you like the Grom? Is it clear with Bluetooth Phone Calls? Can you answer calls on the steering wheel or Radio? Thanks.

 

Ok here we go! Its working with bypass! I pulled the brown/red (front a/c on middle plug on back of fuseblock) from the plug, cut off end ( just the end so in case i ever put new fuseblock back in disco, i could put it back stock... I added an inline circuit directly to the dangling brown/red wire and ran it directly with spade tip into the right side of original F7 front of fuse panel that housed the 30amp fuse... Works great! THANKS Palmetodisco and everyone else here! here is pic of my adaptation! No need to actually plug the brown/red back into back of fuseblock! Therre is an inline 30amp on that yellow wire if you look close

 

I like the grom allot and really clear sound... the bluetooth is a little more complicated and I dont use it allot so haven't really worked it out... mostly routing the speaker that comes with it... Im now more familiar with disco so not as hesitant to remove things but when I bought the GROM i didn't know what I was getting into.. its a little tight fit behind the radio but it does fit

the infall sound is fantastic and their may be an upgrade for it ( firmware or hardware ) but I haven't checked... all the iTunes ( iPhone ) works great and with steering wheel controls including volume... just plug in device... and if you have a dedicated iPod or something youll have all that at your fingertips.... I listen to internet radio so I need internet so I use my iPhone for this... I like the solution... of course of you want to spend $3000 you can have a complete new system installed from a radio shop but it wont sound that much better lol