Help troubleshooting engine ECU
Hello Guys!
As always your help will be appreciated.
I have a 2003 D2 but did an engine swap. Installed a 300tdi on it and was able to continue using the original auto box.
A couple of days ago the engine suddenly started stalling, tach stopped working and I noticed that the ligths in the dash and other instruments started ticking.
Since the 300tdi only requires one wire to keep running, I disconected the fuel pump wire and connected directly to the battery and drove home. The auto box entered in to limp mode . I assume this was caused by the lack of Tachometer signal sent from the ECU and I think this willl be fixed in the same time I fix the main problem.
Today I tested some relays and circuits and the conclusion I have is that the ecu is not properly grounding several circuits and this causes the erratic behavior. For example the engine roughness was caused because the fuel pump relay is constantly energized and de energized ( 2 or 3 times per second) and this does not allow the diesel to flow freely.
Since the tach signal does not work, and since the tach works using a signal from the ecu I assume that the ecu is the one causing all thw problems.
Checked the fuse boxes, and found that the fuse of the coils was burned. Replaced it and the problem was still there. Anyway I removed the coils during the engine swap, so... I am not sure if this has any relation with the problem.
Tomorrow I will check the ecu for grounding and 12V power inputs but have no idea if I can check something more than that.
It looks like the ECU is trying to boot but it does not have enough time to boot and keep working. I think this because the tach tries to start working every 15 to 20 seconds but then the signal is lost about half second later.
Anyone has had a similar problem? Any suggestion? Please remember that this is a Discovery 2 with 300tdi engine swap. I need to fix the issue so the auto box works properly and the engine does not run rough.
Thanks in advance for your help!
As always your help will be appreciated.
I have a 2003 D2 but did an engine swap. Installed a 300tdi on it and was able to continue using the original auto box.
A couple of days ago the engine suddenly started stalling, tach stopped working and I noticed that the ligths in the dash and other instruments started ticking.
Since the 300tdi only requires one wire to keep running, I disconected the fuel pump wire and connected directly to the battery and drove home. The auto box entered in to limp mode . I assume this was caused by the lack of Tachometer signal sent from the ECU and I think this willl be fixed in the same time I fix the main problem.
Today I tested some relays and circuits and the conclusion I have is that the ecu is not properly grounding several circuits and this causes the erratic behavior. For example the engine roughness was caused because the fuel pump relay is constantly energized and de energized ( 2 or 3 times per second) and this does not allow the diesel to flow freely.
Since the tach signal does not work, and since the tach works using a signal from the ecu I assume that the ecu is the one causing all thw problems.
Checked the fuse boxes, and found that the fuse of the coils was burned. Replaced it and the problem was still there. Anyway I removed the coils during the engine swap, so... I am not sure if this has any relation with the problem.
Tomorrow I will check the ecu for grounding and 12V power inputs but have no idea if I can check something more than that.
It looks like the ECU is trying to boot but it does not have enough time to boot and keep working. I think this because the tach tries to start working every 15 to 20 seconds but then the signal is lost about half second later.
Anyone has had a similar problem? Any suggestion? Please remember that this is a Discovery 2 with 300tdi engine swap. I need to fix the issue so the auto box works properly and the engine does not run rough.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Well... checked grounds (connector in the inner side of the right fender, near the engine compartment fuse box and it seems to be fine). Checked Ohms in the connector in the side of the ecu and measurement is 0 Ohms between chassis and each one of the three black wires.
White wire which is supposed to feed the power to the ecu has 15Volts , which is the voltage of the charger I have connected.
I am getting short of things to check now. I am thinking in opening the ecu and check for any visible damage like defective solder or something similar.
Any other idea? Disco Mike?
Thanks!
White wire which is supposed to feed the power to the ecu has 15Volts , which is the voltage of the charger I have connected.
I am getting short of things to check now. I am thinking in opening the ecu and check for any visible damage like defective solder or something similar.
Any other idea? Disco Mike?
Thanks!
Today I found somwething loose in the ckp sensor I adapted to the 300tdi.
It was a temporary adaption I did that I ever fixed and it failed as expected. I am fixing it today as a final solution. Wilm have to send some pieces to the machine shop to have them welded and rectified so I can install again and consider it as a final solution to the issue.
No one answered to my help request but I am pretty sure that a lot of guys at least tried to think in a possible solution. Thanks!!!!
It was a temporary adaption I did that I ever fixed and it failed as expected. I am fixing it today as a final solution. Wilm have to send some pieces to the machine shop to have them welded and rectified so I can install again and consider it as a final solution to the issue.
No one answered to my help request but I am pretty sure that a lot of guys at least tried to think in a possible solution. Thanks!!!!
Yes... I understand but my car was a V8 and I swapped the engine. The ecu is the V8 original. Then maybe someone could give me some light on this. Do not worry I am not blaming anyone. Have been member of the forum for more than 10 years and always have found help here.
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