I doubt you'll need a crank gear.
Personal preference on head bolts or head studs.
I did bolts last time, but have studs for this engine.
I'm not confident in stretch/torque to yeild bolts vs studs with nuts that have an actual torque value.
Even using an angle gage on stretch bolts, I have no personal confidence that they are all torqued the same...especially on an engine where head gasket failures are common.

And
If I were you, I'de start cleaning Now.
I'de also start spraying penatrating oil on the exhaust manifold bolts. Worst case, you can remove the heads with the manifolds on, and it'll be much easier to remove any broken studs on the pipe side.
It will also be easier going back if you replace the 3 studs on the bottom of the timing cover with bolts.

 

I would also replace the waterpump and thermostat.
As well as Best4x4's pcv valve mod in the stickie section.

 

Removed the crank sprocket from the list, and will start the cleaning and penetrating fluids tonight!

I added the waterpump, the Airtex one from AB seems well enough, and I recently replaced the t/stat.
Thanks for your suggestions

 

Atlantic British has a fairly long, very detailed video on how to replace a head gasket. I would recommend watching it.

In general, it's a fairly easy task, but it always has the potential to get complicated. The worst problem you might run into is if the coolant from the head gasket leak corroded one or more of the head bolts, which weakens them and introduces the possibility of snapping a head bolt. Take things slow and don't try to force anything.


Also, while you're in there, I would take the opportunity to change your valve stem seals. They can be a major source of oil consumption as oil leaks from the top of the heads into the combustion chamber. And get a new set of valve cover gaskets while you're at it!

 

And now you know the origin of this

 

Hang on.

I strongly recommend not trying to do the oil pump and timing chain set at the same time you're tackling the head gaskets. STRONGLY recommend. As a newbie you'll have your hands full with the headgaskets. Get that job done successfully, pat yourself on the back, and then tackle the front cover and the things that go with it.

I grew up in a farm community working on all kinds of engines, so I knew more than a little about tearing them down and putting them back together. I was then away from that for 30 years before I got into wrenching on the Rover. I took one weekend to remove the heads, working steadily but not every waking hour and being careful along the way. I took the next weekend to put it back together after sending the heads out for service. In between I was in New York on a business trip. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to be tearing into the front end at the same time the top end was apart.

I wish there was a way to link the locations of forum members to Google Maps so we could see where we all are. That way you could perhaps ID another more experienced member in or near Colorado Springs to help you out.

Good luck to you whatever you decide to do.

 

It is sound advice to do one job at a time.
I would do the oil pan first.
You can drop the pan with the engine in( you have to jack the truck up with the front suspension fully extended to have room to get the pan down, turn it, and bring it out the rear, driver's side).
Makes it easier to get the front cover off with the pan completely off.
Oil is going to drip around the inner edges of the block for a lonnnng time, so the time it takes to swap the oil pump and gasket makes for less oil to wipe out of the block before putting the new pan gasket on.
Put some oil on the pump o-ring, and be very careful not to tear it. Oil on the crank/cover seal also.
Use a small amount of rtv silicone on both sides of the gaskets.
I would spend $60 on a new fan and clutch too, as it's cheap insurance, and the old one will be off anyway.
After the pan and timing cover are back on, then do the head gaskets.

 

Finally someone sees it my way!

 

I've started and I'm stuck. One last bolt on the oil sump that just won't budge. I'm afraid I've rounded it too. Got some cheap extractors from harbor freight and they wouldn't even get her off. I realised I went out of sequence with removing the sump and is that the issue now? Should I reinstall the bolts and then remove them in the correct order? The only bolt remaining is the one on the driver side up top behind the exhaust pipe and transmission lines. Photo evidence coming


It's shifted but just tilt your head. That bolt is behind that damn exhaust pipe

 

Give yourself some room and remove the exhaust, the 3 nuts/studs on each manifold, and 2 holding the pipe to the muffler.
The front cross member needs dropped too.
If crossmember bolts won't come out, sawzall the cross member out, one cut per side, straight through, flush with the inner frame rail.
The front crossmember is not needed, and many of us removed it.
For the one bolt that won't come out, with the pipe removed, you have more room to work and more leverage.
Put a couple bolts back in the pan, one in front, one in rear, snug, but no need to tighten. They will take pressure off the one you're struggling with.