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How to Bypass immobiliser?

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  #11  
Old 08-28-2011, 07:56 PM
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Yeah, batteries are a good starting point usually. I had a guy I work with ask me to check out his truck one day when it wouldn't start so, I went out with a multi meter and checked the voltage. It showed over 12 volts but, would not crank the engine over. He even said that he had just drove it about 5 1/2 hours the day before with no problems and the voltage guage was reading normal. The way I knew it was the battery and most likely not the starter was the fact that the solenoid would click when the key was turned but wouldn't crank over. A bad starter may click once or whatever without cranking over but, this truck had a distinct "dead battery" click to it.
I gave him a jump start and sure enough, it fired up right away. He then said that the voltage appeared slightly higher than normal, I don't know why but I'm thinking maybe it was energy that was not being absorbed by the battery??? He went home and tried another battery and all was well. Good Luck with your truck man!
 
  #12  
Old 08-30-2011, 12:13 AM
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Update - It was the starter. I went to get a load test at the auto shop and they said they could not do it. When I went to leave it did it again and would not start. I took the tire iron and tapped the starter and then it fired right up. I was able to get a starter today and it starts perfectly now. Also I saw I had a idler pulley that had cracked and shredded part of my serpentine belt. I found a 70mm universal pulley at O'Reilly's for $23 and it is perfect too. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
  #13  
Old 08-30-2011, 04:41 AM
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Nice catch on the pulley, and THANKS! for the resolution. Banging on starters is a common practice, a little more challenging with the heat shield, but even tapping that might make the difference if you are stuck with a Disco full of offsprings and under the steeling glance of she-who-must-be-obeyed....
 
  #14  
Old 08-17-2012, 11:51 PM
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Av bin trying to fix a 2006 landrover V6, i cant realy say wat the problem is buh the car wont start,the immobiliser light wont go off when the key is inserted into the ignition,it has become a headache, i would like to know if the EKA code method could help and if not,wat would,and how can i get the code? Thanks anybody.
 
  #15  
Old 08-18-2012, 05:25 AM
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The generic code is 1515. But since you said V6, is that a Discovery? Codes and techniques might vary for something else if a lot newer.

Dealer might be able to provide "real" code from VIN if your can jump through a lot of hoops.
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-18-2012 at 05:28 AM.
  #16  
Old 08-18-2012, 02:22 PM
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A bad ground connection from the starter to the frame can also give yu a starter that works fine at times and then gives absolutely nothing. That was the case on my DI.

I would check that before buying a new starter.
 
  #17  
Old 08-18-2012, 07:01 PM
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You may have a ground joint to the frame acting up.
There is a high current ground wire to the frame.
You need to take it off, clean it up and put it back on.
You'll probably be better off then.
Also - remove your battery terminals and clean them up.
If your battery is older than three years old, then go to Wallace Mart and get a new battery for about $110.

I thought this was wrong with our D1 - but it was a bad frame ground
165,000 miles on the D1 -same starter.

Symptom is - it cranks really slow and then as you hold the key on - it speeds up and starts.

If your starter is running fast and fine and you are saying that the engine simply will not start - then it is your crank sensor.

Savannah taught me that!!!!
 
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