The leak looks like the water pump and it hasn't over heated with it has never got much above normal.
Well that sucks if traction control does fail you lose power to the rear and all you have is the one front that is spinning.
Here are the codes i have. P1590. P0420. P0307. P0441. P0455. P0300. P0307.
I just order new cats. and the other day it started to miss but then it quit in like 2to mins.

 

Without a locked Center Diff you always and only have 1 wheel with power...so you could end up without power to the front OR rear depending on the situation...if the TC notices a wheel that is spinning faster than the other wheels it pulses the brakes on that wheel...it will NOT completely lock the tire forcing all the power to another wheel, it will just 'pulse power' to the other wheel as the brake grabs the one spinning.

TC is a big help but it will leave you stuck if it is all you are relying on.

 

"it has never got much above normal" if it go above normal it's already too late.

 

What can i do about locking the center diff buy one out of a 04area model

 

And why do you say if it runs a little hot its too late.

 

Because you can warp the aluminum.

 

Does it have steel selves for the pistons?

 

Without electronic traction control, and with center differential Not shifted into locked position, that center differential acts the same as any front or rear differential without locking employed. In other words, that center differential allows spinning of one driveshaft, either front or back with one wheel on that axle spinning free due to insufficient traction, some surfaces, on that wheel. The earliest Jeeps and Land Rovers (series land Rovers) were this way, as they had no center differential lock, and certainly no electronic traction control, both came later. However, moving ahead historically, if you have the center differential shifted into full locked position, it reacts same as would front/rear differential with lockers, that prevents one tire only spinning, but both wheels on that axle are engaged, so both wheels spin, or provide power. With center differential locked, both front and rear drive shafts are engaged together, so one wheel in front AND one in rear must spin free to be stuck, but when your Rover engages, automatically, the Rover developed Electronic Traction Control, those two spinning wheels experience brake pulsing, engaging power to the opposite wheels on both axles, making for a truer four wheel drive system. Theoretically, the only way you could get stuck, is to get high centered. ETC takes place up to around 30 mph and partially, up to around 60 mph, if I recall correctly. In high range, at speeds over 60 mph., you have normal four wheel drive, unlocked center, front, and rear differentials. Remember, though, that with center differential locked, you should avoid driving on firm surfaces, such as pavement, that don't allow for tires to be able to spin freely, front to back axles, as you get "wind up" which can destroy front differential, axles, etc. (trust me, I know all about this aspect, as I have literately torn my front drive train to pieces doing exactly as I am now advising you to avoid). Further, with CDL engaged, you should try to drive only in straight line, with little, or better yet, no turning. The more slippery the surface, i.e. snow/ice, the less critical it is to observe this carefully. REMEMBER, WITH CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK, AND ROVER ELECTRONIC TRACTION CONTROL, YOU ARE ABLE TO GET SERIOUSLY STUCK IN PLACES NOBODY ELSE DARES TO GO!

 

Ok cool thank yall alot. So it is a really good system. I have been reading some that say don't go off road because it doesn't have a center locking diff. But after all of this sounds like i can put some nice A/T tires on it and do some trail riding.

 

And can i run 265/60/18r