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How often do you change out your brake pads and rotors?

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  #11  
Old 11-02-2017, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
Since I switched over to slotted/cross drilled rotors I've been getting much better life out of the front rotors without any of them being warped like the OEM rotors would get over time and hard braking. Pad life has been about 40K front/60K Rear. I also strictly only use ceramic brake pads. All brake pads will produce dust, but ceramic puts out the lowest amount. If you leave that thick brake dust on eventually it is extremely hard to get off, can take the paint with it, and in the worse case situation hot brake material can fly off, land on the rim, burn thru the paint and pit the aluminum rim.

I did the same by paying more money and switched to EBC GD Sport slotted rotors and Akebono ceramic brake pads. I'm so glad I did it for better braking power.
Never skimp/go cheap on safety.
 
  #12  
Old 11-03-2017, 06:48 PM
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Saves you a fortune KD and is relatively easy to do. You need a pair of axle stands to do each end or 4# to do both ends simultaneously. Don't forget to tighten/torque the wheel nuts afterwards.

How To Replace The Brakes On A Discovery II

And there ya go, it takes about 1-2 hours for each end of the truck on ya first time around. Be careful of the Philips screw in the rotor not to round out the centre. I've replaced all of mine with stainless steel M8x10mm as they don't need to be really tight as they do nothing.
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; 11-03-2017 at 07:01 PM.
  #13  
Old 11-05-2017, 11:02 AM
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KD, I misread your post. IMO I reckon you should get circa 40K from the brake pads with maybe more on the rear pads and 70K-100K out of the rotors. This can vary depending on the make and/or types used but it's a good launch point.
 
  #14  
Old 11-22-2017, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mln01
The rear pads now have over 60,000 miles on them and are admittedly getting thin. I plan to change them Thanksgiving weekend.
Well, I was wrong.

My son got back to Charlotte with the truck last night. This morning I pulled the right rear wheel to check the brake pads. I was surprised to find the pad I could see is still ~3/16" thick, about the same thickness as the backing plate. That's after 9½ years and a little over 62,000 miles. Amazing.

I'd ordered new pads and rotors from Advance expecting to replace the brakes this weekend but I'll instead be returning them to Advance and enjoying more free time.
 
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Last edited by mln01; 11-22-2017 at 08:42 AM.
  #15  
Old 11-22-2017, 10:13 AM
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well who knows what my problem is then.. I'm definitely not getting the mileage that you guys are reporting. Perhaps I should change pad type. I have had repeated issues with my back right rotor since day one with Bertha. I'm going on 10 years of battling braking issues and it's driving me insane. To make matters more interesting, I now have a clunking sensation in the rear of the Rover that has developed SINCE I got the truck back from the garage. It almost feels like my shocks are shot to hell (20 months after they were replaced?) and the back end rocks like a boat when turning into a parking lot. I'm assuming it's suspension related. I pushed on the back quarter panel of the truck and it rocks back and forth for about 3 seconds by itself. Bushings? Sway bar? Any thoughts? Is there something the garage could have disconnected while replacing the brakes?

I think I bought slotted rotors for the front end 4 years ago as I remember reading that on the forum somewhere, thanks. I still need to check the pads to see if they are as worn as the garage stated they are. This back end business is my main priority right now as I don't feel like I have as much stability with the road.

Happy Turkey Day everyone
 
  #16  
Old 11-22-2017, 01:47 PM
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Check your Watts link bushings. They will make a clunking noise when bad.

Brian.
 
  #17  
Old 11-22-2017, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
Check your Watts link bushings. They will make a clunking noise when bad.

Brian.
Wow.. it is AMAZING how much info one can learn on this forum - thanks Brian! It sounds so much like the video here:


You guys are so clever and full of Insight - I will crawl around and see what I see on Friday. Supposed to warm(er) in our part of the voods as I assume you'll see the same.

Hmm.. on second thought, having watched this I don't know if I want to tackle this myself


If you're not 100% confident in your mechanical ability.. 'do not get under the car'.. haha.. this guy cracks me up.

Ahh.. I love my Rover.

$2000 a year in maintenance? Hm.... who came up with that fallacy?!?
 
  #18  
Old 11-22-2017, 03:36 PM
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Replacing Watts Links/Bushings can be a real PITA. The trick is to start drinking early (like the day before) and often.
Oh, and a lot of swearing also helps!
 
  #19  
Old 11-22-2017, 04:03 PM
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If it is the watts bushings, I'd buy the whole unit that mounts to the axle housing. There are two more bushings, on each end of the control arms, but mine were good. I pressed in the bushings at work, with a 20 ton press, and I was very unhappy with the quality of the bushings I got from Atlantic British. The center bushing pressed in easily, but one of the smaller ones cracked (plastic outer shell) while installing...the other small one went in easily.

Whole assembly on ebay. There are a couple more, ranging in price, this one was the closest.

https://www.ebay.com/i/111506571147?...D1372039321655

Brian.
 
  #20  
Old 11-22-2017, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by OverRover
Replacing Watts Links/Bushings can be a real PITA. The trick is to start drinking early (like the day before) and often.
Oh, and a lot of swearing also helps!
Knew I quit drinking to early in life...if I'd have only knew that I'd own 2 discovery's someday...I'd have bought a brewery.

Brian.
 


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