How to Prevent Rust on Disco 2?
Eastwood has an internal frame coating. It comes with a long plastic tube, with a brass tip that has holes around the sides. The result is that when you fish the tube into frame and spray, it sprays 360 degrees sideways inside the frame pulled along slowly, you can get good coverage. Holes in bottom of frame will drip too.
I’ve ordered extra tubes and nozzles, and I’ve swapped the spray head on the can into some regular rust covert or also. It works great. I’ve used the stuff for years. With regular application, it will eventually turn the rust black, and you’ll have a plastic coating. I saved my old Land Cruiser this way.
Starting on a rust free frame like mine, I still sprayed it with rust converter. Then I sprayed the outside with rust converter, a couple different times, front to back. Then I sprayed inside. Then I painted everything I could reach on the outside with Eastwood external frame coating.
Later this summer, I’ll spray the inside with at least two more coats of rust converter, just in case. Then I’ll finish up with the internal frame coating.
From there, just treat any spots that you see each summer. The converter only works above about 70 degrees.
I’ve ordered extra tubes and nozzles, and I’ve swapped the spray head on the can into some regular rust covert or also. It works great. I’ve used the stuff for years. With regular application, it will eventually turn the rust black, and you’ll have a plastic coating. I saved my old Land Cruiser this way.
Starting on a rust free frame like mine, I still sprayed it with rust converter. Then I sprayed the outside with rust converter, a couple different times, front to back. Then I sprayed inside. Then I painted everything I could reach on the outside with Eastwood external frame coating.
Later this summer, I’ll spray the inside with at least two more coats of rust converter, just in case. Then I’ll finish up with the internal frame coating.
From there, just treat any spots that you see each summer. The converter only works above about 70 degrees.
Eastwood has an internal frame coating. It comes with a long plastic tube, with a brass tip that has holes around the sides. The result is that when you fish the tube into frame and spray, it sprays 360 degrees sideways inside the frame pulled along slowly, you can get good coverage. Holes in bottom of frame will drip too.
I’ve ordered extra tubes and nozzles, and I’ve swapped the spray head on the can into some regular rust covert or also. It works great. I’ve used the stuff for years. With regular application, it will eventually turn the rust black, and you’ll have a plastic coating. I saved my old Land Cruiser this way.
Starting on a rust free frame like mine, I still sprayed it with rust converter. Then I sprayed the outside with rust converter, a couple different times, front to back. Then I sprayed inside. Then I painted everything I could reach on the outside with Eastwood external frame coating.
Later this summer, I’ll spray the inside with at least two more coats of rust converter, just in case. Then I’ll finish up with the internal frame coating.
From there, just treat any spots that you see each summer. The converter only works above about 70 degrees.
I’ve ordered extra tubes and nozzles, and I’ve swapped the spray head on the can into some regular rust covert or also. It works great. I’ve used the stuff for years. With regular application, it will eventually turn the rust black, and you’ll have a plastic coating. I saved my old Land Cruiser this way.
Starting on a rust free frame like mine, I still sprayed it with rust converter. Then I sprayed the outside with rust converter, a couple different times, front to back. Then I sprayed inside. Then I painted everything I could reach on the outside with Eastwood external frame coating.
Later this summer, I’ll spray the inside with at least two more coats of rust converter, just in case. Then I’ll finish up with the internal frame coating.
From there, just treat any spots that you see each summer. The converter only works above about 70 degrees.
You can use POR-15 or an equivalent. I turned 59 today, and if I recall the late 70s and early 80s correctly, POR-15 originated this chemical rust conversion product. Lots of other with similar stuff. I've used the NAPA brand, and today I have Permatex product (when Napa quit carrying it, I read the can, and it was made my Permatex).
There is a key difference between the various products. There are chemicals that will dissolve rust (I keep a can of this in the garage for small parts, it has a basket and you dip them overnight). The second category is more of a rust "encapsulator" (word used on one of the Eastwood products) - these cover the rust, and theoretically deny them the air and moisture they need to grow more rust. Finally, there are the rust convertors - these convert the rust chemically, stopping the rust, and leaving behind a black surface.
The rust convertors like heat - warmth helps them to complete the chemical reaction. Humidity does not hurt them. So this week is a great time to spray them.
To recap my process, I use a rust CONVERTOR on everything, even if there's no surface rust. I coat generously, hoping for it to drip into cracks and seams. Of course, I'm talking about the underside of the truck - frame and floors - where no one sees it. Then I cover the whole thing with a rust ENCAPSULATOR. In some cases this is the Eastwood frame exterior coating, or the interior fram coating from Eastwood, or just plain old Rustoleum in matte black.
I hope that helps. No worries about questions. At my age, I lived thru the years of crappy steel and lots of rust repairs.
On another note, I had a bit of light surface rust on black trim piece on passenger rear door - the piece between roll down glass and fixed quarter glass. I scuffed it with a scotchbrite pad, masked with tape, and sprayed with the Permatex rust convertor. It turned black, didn't even require any additional paint.
There is a key difference between the various products. There are chemicals that will dissolve rust (I keep a can of this in the garage for small parts, it has a basket and you dip them overnight). The second category is more of a rust "encapsulator" (word used on one of the Eastwood products) - these cover the rust, and theoretically deny them the air and moisture they need to grow more rust. Finally, there are the rust convertors - these convert the rust chemically, stopping the rust, and leaving behind a black surface.
The rust convertors like heat - warmth helps them to complete the chemical reaction. Humidity does not hurt them. So this week is a great time to spray them.
To recap my process, I use a rust CONVERTOR on everything, even if there's no surface rust. I coat generously, hoping for it to drip into cracks and seams. Of course, I'm talking about the underside of the truck - frame and floors - where no one sees it. Then I cover the whole thing with a rust ENCAPSULATOR. In some cases this is the Eastwood frame exterior coating, or the interior fram coating from Eastwood, or just plain old Rustoleum in matte black.
I hope that helps. No worries about questions. At my age, I lived thru the years of crappy steel and lots of rust repairs.
On another note, I had a bit of light surface rust on black trim piece on passenger rear door - the piece between roll down glass and fixed quarter glass. I scuffed it with a scotchbrite pad, masked with tape, and sprayed with the Permatex rust convertor. It turned black, didn't even require any additional paint.
Eastwood has an internal frame coating. It comes with a long plastic tube, with a brass tip that has holes around the sides. The result is that when you fish the tube into frame and spray, it sprays 360 degrees sideways inside the frame pulled along slowly, you can get good coverage. Holes in bottom of frame will drip too.
I’ve ordered extra tubes and nozzles, and I’ve swapped the spray head on the can into some regular rust covert or also. It works great. I’ve used the stuff for years. With regular application, it will eventually turn the rust black, and you’ll have a plastic coating. I saved my old Land Cruiser this way.
Starting on a rust free frame like mine, I still sprayed it with rust converter. Then I sprayed the outside with rust converter, a couple different times, front to back. Then I sprayed inside. Then I painted everything I could reach on the outside with Eastwood external frame coating.
Later this summer, I’ll spray the inside with at least two more coats of rust converter, just in case. Then I’ll finish up with the internal frame coating.
From there, just treat any spots that you see each summer. The converter only works above about 70 degrees.
I’ve ordered extra tubes and nozzles, and I’ve swapped the spray head on the can into some regular rust covert or also. It works great. I’ve used the stuff for years. With regular application, it will eventually turn the rust black, and you’ll have a plastic coating. I saved my old Land Cruiser this way.
Starting on a rust free frame like mine, I still sprayed it with rust converter. Then I sprayed the outside with rust converter, a couple different times, front to back. Then I sprayed inside. Then I painted everything I could reach on the outside with Eastwood external frame coating.
Later this summer, I’ll spray the inside with at least two more coats of rust converter, just in case. Then I’ll finish up with the internal frame coating.
From there, just treat any spots that you see each summer. The converter only works above about 70 degrees.
tried getting this stuff seems like Amazon it’s sold out or not available the website is good but they want $40 shipping to Canada. Oh well
I’m sure there is a comparable product in Canada. Until the shut down I was up there almost every month. I bet if you poke around with the auto parts suppliers in the paint suppliers you might find something similar to POR 15 or other rust converters.
I know that it’s common to be able to walk into some of the larger heavy truck dealers in Canada and find brush on cans of a different brand of rust encapsulator for painting frames.
it helps that you guys don’t use as many chemicals on the roads up there. Down here in the states, especially from where I live in Maryland and points north, it has become really common to pre-spray the roads prior to a snow storm. So then even if it just rains all of that gets picked up and sprayed under the bottom of your car.
Good luck! If you keep looking hopefully you can find the right stuff. It’s a pain in the butt to do all of that wire brushing and painting, but it’s worth it in the long run.
I know that it’s common to be able to walk into some of the larger heavy truck dealers in Canada and find brush on cans of a different brand of rust encapsulator for painting frames.
it helps that you guys don’t use as many chemicals on the roads up there. Down here in the states, especially from where I live in Maryland and points north, it has become really common to pre-spray the roads prior to a snow storm. So then even if it just rains all of that gets picked up and sprayed under the bottom of your car.
Good luck! If you keep looking hopefully you can find the right stuff. It’s a pain in the butt to do all of that wire brushing and painting, but it’s worth it in the long run.
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