Can anyone give some input on this?

Is it best to remove the spark plugs before or after removing the crank/cam bolts if I’ll be using the wood block method to hold the engine? I’m thinking that the engine might turn too easily without the spark plugs, which would make getting the block of wood held in there enough to loosen the bolts difficult - I’ve already removed the bolts, but out them back on (not torqued, just pretty lightly) to inspect the cam.

I don’t understand exactly how to hold the flywheel and I couldn’t find the rubber inspection port anywhere on the bell housing, but anyway I think it’s more important that I hear back about the spark plugs/crank bolts rather than learning another method to loosen the bolts unless that will help and won’t be too difficult.

 

Take the spark plugs out. The engine won’t turn too easily.
I think the difficulty removing the plugs and wires is because they have been in there too long. The next time your plug is difficult to remove, spray some kind of penetrating oil at the threads, then turn the plug back in a bit, then out but stop before there is too much resistance, then in and out, maybe adding some oil from time to time. Slowly work it back and forth until it’s out.

 

The rubber inspection plugs are in actually in the oil pan and seen from the front of the engine looking backwards. Here's a picture of what to look for, one plug is missing in this photo. I find this easier to do on the driver's side due to the rotation of the bolt you're trying to loosen, and on the passenger side when tightening. You will need new rubber plugs since the exposure to oil makes them twice their normal size and they won't go back in (easily) once removed.

It's also WAY easier with a helper to steady the socket on the torque converter bolt as you crack the cam bolt free but with the right combination of extensions you can hold the socket steady by wedging it amongst the trans cooler plumbing. If you don't understand this then either get a helper or use the block of wood technique. It's completely ok if the engine rotates when you crack the bolts using the block of wood. Just leave the chain on until the bolts are partially loose and then rotate the engine back the few degrees back to TDC before you remove the chain and gears. A few things already pointed out, you can rotate the engine small amounts (a very few degrees) without the chain in place in order to more closely align the marks when fitting the gears and chain. Don't go nuts though or you will bend stuff. My advice is don't rotate it without the chain and gears installed and you'll have nothing to worry about. You can install the chain and gears 25°, 82°, 168° (pick your number) away from TDC, it doesn't matter. As long as the cam and crank remain in the exact same position when the gears and chain were removed then everything will go back together correctly. The gears are keyed so as long as neither shaft moves (at all) while chain is off it really doesn't matter what position they were in when removed. It's their position relative to each that you're concerned with. That said, it's sound engine building practice to dis and reassemble at TDC whenever possible..

And, once everything is back together you can get the cam gear hand tight (with chain in place) and you need to rotate the engine twice as a double check that everything is copacetic. With the spark plugs installed you will not be able to tell of the engine is binding against a valve or compression is preventing you from rotating it further and you can bend stuff.

This is not a difficult or particularly tricky job, just picture the engine internals and what they do when the engine turns while running and don't violate that harmony while you have parts off of it.

 

Thanks guys, I managed to pull all the ignition wire with the ring nose pliers - some got pierced a bit, but the rubber closed back up - will they be alright?

I pulled all the spark plugs, but I broke one. They’re Bosch Double Platinum plugs that were put in with some kind of grey ignition wire about 4-5 years ago. I’m not really sure how many miles it’s been, but I guess I could replace them. Even though I can’t really afford to keep spending on parts, it would be worth it so I don’t have to do that again for a while. I bought a replacement Bosch plug just in case, though.

The engine had a misfire before that wouldn’t go away and I didn’t try different plugs, wires, new coil packs, etc. That’s not really an issue for now though since I’m far from starting the engine again.

I plugged the spark plug holes with blue shop towels but didn’t pack them in that tightly - they’re secure though. Before I removed the plugs, I used the wood block to loosen the crank and cam bolts, so I’m no longer at TDC. I couldn’t turn the engine by hand after removing them plugs. Is it supposed to turn easily? It was turning fine with the wrench when I loosened the bolt, but should I remove the shop towels from the plug holes and try? I hope nothing is seizing… I’m just wondering how I’m going to tell if the engine is turning properly with the new timing chain and gears if I can’t turn the engine without the same amount of force (or a lot of force) that it took using the wrench on the crank bolt. Should I spray anything into the engine to lubricate it? Should I drip anything down the spark plug holes to lubricate from the top? A while ago I was told to use marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes when starting an engine that hasn’t run in a long time (this one has been sitting for about 8 months and hasn’t had oil for about 3 months).

Please advise me - totally lost and I’m way in here.

I think I need to learn another trick for loosening the crank and cam bolts - another way to hold the engine exactly where I need it at TDC, so I can loosen the bolts there without moving anything. I’ll try to figure out the flywheel method, but I have the sump removed, so I’m not sure if that’s possible now.

Thank you

 

Well, you picked the right username. Turning by hand means with a wrench. You refit the crank bolt (with some spacers) and tighten it by hand until the engine starts to turn. However, as I said above it doesn't matter where you are in relation to TDC if you want to swap the gears and chain. Just make sure you don't rotate anything when the chain is off and it will all go right back together. It will take a few guesses at which teeth you should be on but as long as you don't turn the cam or the crank (which you've already said you can't do "by hand") with the timing kit off you'll be fine. When both gears slide onto the keyways with the chain on them, you're good. You're in time. The answer to most of your other questions is no, spraying, removing shop towels, dripping, all no.

If you want to get to TDC for piece of mind just stack some washers on the crank bolt so it doesn't bottom out and then tighten it until the engine turns. When you get to TDC give the wrench a sharp crack in the other direction and the crank bolt will loosen without disturbing the gears position (much). But, for the third time, it doesn't matter if it does.

You will need new spark plug wires, holes in the boots is no good.

 

At this point, if it was me, I’d be buying a $500 beater car so I could work on the Disco at my leisure. You said you’re not doing this for fun. These jobs need to be fun. Rushing a fairly in depth job like this can easily lead to mistakes.

 

Thanks, I’m not rushing though and I’ve been happy working on this for years, but got into something gnarly (for me). I’m asking a ton of questions and taking time to be sure I’m doing everything properly.

I misunderstood about turning the engine by hand, so I’ll put the crank bolt back and see if I can knock it loose with a hammer after getting to TDC. I’m trying to do everything super carefully, so I don’t screw anything up, but it looks like the engine is impossible to turn without a wrench anyway, so I don’t think I’ll have to worry about the shafts turning independently.

I appreciate all the help, I’m just struggling with a lot beyond this vehicle right now. Neuropathy was the name of a metal band I played in but yeah I’m not very good with this stuff, so I’m trying to be really careful and would probably take things literally. I’d thought that it would be easy to turn the engine without a wrench with the spark plugs removed, but didn’t realize the idea was still to use a wrench on the crank bolt.