How to Remove Engine Block?
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 1
How to Remove Engine Block?
so apparently I might have a cracked block 
I have already torn down the engine when I was just planning on replacing the head gaskets, but now I'm not sure what to do
I would prefer to find the actual failure....at least as a learning experience
is there a way to remove just the actual engine block so I can do a more thourough visual inspection and then do a pressure test?
thoughts? ideas?
I have already torn down the engine when I was just planning on replacing the head gaskets, but now I'm not sure what to do
I would prefer to find the actual failure....at least as a learning experience
is there a way to remove just the actual engine block so I can do a more thourough visual inspection and then do a pressure test?
thoughts? ideas?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 211
From: dallas texas
heads are off, so you have removed a large portion of its roots already. still have the bottom/back side to go. almost there. tranny, mounts,starter, etc.
cheap azz hoist at hf, if you don't have one
cheap azz hoist at hf, if you don't have one
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 1
will i need to remove the crankshaft? or can that just rest in there?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 16
From: San Antonio,Tx
If you already have the heads off then is will be really easy to pull the rest of it out. Thread a few of the head bolts back into the block with a large washer and chain for the engine hoist. Quick version: Unhook everything, support transmission, unbolt the block from the bell housing, and lift out.
Full Version: Engine Assembly removal.pdf
Full Version: Engine Assembly removal.pdf
Last edited by Jared9220; Jul 25, 2014 at 08:46 AM.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 82
Likes: 1
From: Thornton, CO
The crankshaft is attached to the block if that is what you are asking.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
If you plan to just do a cold pressure test, you can make block off plates and test it in the truck. unless the machine shop you are carrying it to can do a hot pressure test, then just make the plates or buy a kit to test it yourself. The kit is pricey but I think you can rent it. Can't remember the name of the company.
And be aware, cold tests are not always 100% accurate, with a good chance of a false negative since it sometimes takes heat to open up any cracks in the block..
If you are taking the block out, you can get to some of the bellhousing bolts from underneath, then after you raise it and take out the motor mounts you can lower it to get the 4 top bolts out.
Then there are two bolts, one on each side half way up the bellhousing that are the hardest to get to and you will need like a 20" or 24" extension and a universal joint swivel for your socket. Those two bolts a kind of hard to get to but not real hard. just hard to see and to get the socket to stay on. be sure you have the transmission supported good before you separate it.
Look at the top of you sleeves and see if any have any hammering compared to the other ones. the bevel area around the top edge, like it has been banging up against the head. also if you have the oil pan off turn the crank and see if all of the sleeves are seated all the way down like the rest. you can turn the crank with a ratchet and socket on your balancer pulley bolt to move each piston up out of the way so you can see the bottom of the sleeves/liners. alot depends on where you head gasket gave out at, near the end cylinders may be a head gasket, water in any of the center cylinders better chance you have bigger problems. Only way to test that is with a pressure test. Sleeves can be slipping and the block still not cracked behind the sleeve they just bounce up and down and tic, tic ,tic. You can also have a cracked block and not have a slipped sleeve.
The number# 7 sleeve in my daily driver moved up and down and ticked for 30K miles before I started using a 180 thermostat the tick stopped or hasn't ticked for a long, long time. could start back tomorrow. The head gasket finally went at almost 150 K on that cylinder probably from being hammered all that time by the sleeve or just from old age. it started ticking right after 100K and ticked until about 130K or so and I started using the 180 thermostat and it stopped ticking and then went another 15K or so before the head gasket went.
If you do pull the engine and you haven't removed your radiater, I would do that since if the engine swings forward when you break it loose from the trans or lifting it out it may wreck you radiator. It can be done without removing it but makes everything much easier to get to.
Be careful with everything, make sure you truck is supported safely on stands if you have it jacked up while removing the bellhousing bolts and watch your fingers while fooling around with the motor mounts. and if you have never did this type of work or even if you have, I would advise not doing any of this while home alone. Have your wife or somebody around to check on you. Accidents can happen and it's always best to have someone around.
and finally, expect to bust your knuckles and leave plenty of skin all under the truck. I personally can't wear gloves and do mechanic work.... unless it freezing outside and I have to. If you can, then it may be a good idea.
good luck with your truck!
And be aware, cold tests are not always 100% accurate, with a good chance of a false negative since it sometimes takes heat to open up any cracks in the block..
If you are taking the block out, you can get to some of the bellhousing bolts from underneath, then after you raise it and take out the motor mounts you can lower it to get the 4 top bolts out.
Then there are two bolts, one on each side half way up the bellhousing that are the hardest to get to and you will need like a 20" or 24" extension and a universal joint swivel for your socket. Those two bolts a kind of hard to get to but not real hard. just hard to see and to get the socket to stay on. be sure you have the transmission supported good before you separate it.
Look at the top of you sleeves and see if any have any hammering compared to the other ones. the bevel area around the top edge, like it has been banging up against the head. also if you have the oil pan off turn the crank and see if all of the sleeves are seated all the way down like the rest. you can turn the crank with a ratchet and socket on your balancer pulley bolt to move each piston up out of the way so you can see the bottom of the sleeves/liners. alot depends on where you head gasket gave out at, near the end cylinders may be a head gasket, water in any of the center cylinders better chance you have bigger problems. Only way to test that is with a pressure test. Sleeves can be slipping and the block still not cracked behind the sleeve they just bounce up and down and tic, tic ,tic. You can also have a cracked block and not have a slipped sleeve.
The number# 7 sleeve in my daily driver moved up and down and ticked for 30K miles before I started using a 180 thermostat the tick stopped or hasn't ticked for a long, long time. could start back tomorrow. The head gasket finally went at almost 150 K on that cylinder probably from being hammered all that time by the sleeve or just from old age. it started ticking right after 100K and ticked until about 130K or so and I started using the 180 thermostat and it stopped ticking and then went another 15K or so before the head gasket went.
If you do pull the engine and you haven't removed your radiater, I would do that since if the engine swings forward when you break it loose from the trans or lifting it out it may wreck you radiator. It can be done without removing it but makes everything much easier to get to.
Be careful with everything, make sure you truck is supported safely on stands if you have it jacked up while removing the bellhousing bolts and watch your fingers while fooling around with the motor mounts. and if you have never did this type of work or even if you have, I would advise not doing any of this while home alone. Have your wife or somebody around to check on you. Accidents can happen and it's always best to have someone around.
and finally, expect to bust your knuckles and leave plenty of skin all under the truck. I personally can't wear gloves and do mechanic work.... unless it freezing outside and I have to. If you can, then it may be a good idea.
good luck with your truck!
Last edited by RicketyTick; Jul 25, 2014 at 05:58 PM.
The crankshaft is inside the engine, I'm not sure why the crankshaft would even be an issue with removal
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 1
If you plan to just do a cold pressure test, you can make block off plates and test it in the truck. unless the machine shop you are carrying it to can do a hot pressure test, then just make the plates or buy a kit to test it yourself. The kit is pricey but I think you can rent it. Can't remember the name of the company.
And be aware, cold tests are not always 100% accurate, with a good chance of a false negative since it sometimes takes heat to open up any cracks in the block..
If you are taking the block out, you can get to some of the bellhousing bolts from underneath, then after you raise it and take out the motor mounts you can lower it to get the 4 top bolts out.
Then there are two bolts, one on each side half way up the bellhousing that are the hardest to get to and you will need like a 20" or 24" extension and a universal joint swivel for your socket. Those two bolts a kind of hard to get to but not real hard. just hard to see and to get the socket to stay on. be sure you have the transmission supported good before you separate it.
Look at the top of you sleeves and see if any have any hammering compared to the other ones. the bevel area around the top edge, like it has been banging up against the head. also if you have the oil pan off turn the crank and see if all of the sleeves are seated all the way down like the rest. you can turn the crank with a ratchet and socket on your balancer pulley bolt to move each piston up out of the way so you can see the bottom of the sleeves/liners. alot depends on where you head gasket gave out at, near the end cylinders may be a head gasket, water in any of the center cylinders better chance you have bigger problems. Only way to test that is with a pressure test. Sleeves can be slipping and the block still not cracked behind the sleeve they just bounce up and down and tic, tic ,tic. You can also have a cracked block and not have a slipped sleeve.
The number# 7 sleeve in my daily driver moved up and down and ticked for 30K miles before I started using a 180 thermostat the tick stopped or hasn't ticked for a long, long time. could start back tomorrow. The head gasket finally went at almost 150 K on that cylinder probably from being hammered all that time by the sleeve or just from old age. it started ticking right after 100K and ticked until about 130K or so and I started using the 180 thermostat and it stopped ticking and then went another 15K or so before the head gasket went.
If you do pull the engine and you haven't removed your radiater, I would do that since if the engine swings forward when you break it loose from the trans or lifting it out it may wreck you radiator. It can be done without removing it but makes everything much easier to get to.
Be careful with everything, make sure you truck is supported safely on stands if you have it jacked up while removing the bellhousing bolts and watch your fingers while fooling around with the motor mounts. and if you have never did this type of work or even if you have, I would advise not doing any of this while home alone. Have your wife or somebody around to check on you. Accidents can happen and it's always best to have someone around.
and finally, expect to bust your knuckles and leave plenty of skin all under the truck. I personally can't wear gloves and do mechanic work.... unless it freezing outside and I have to. If you can, then it may be a good idea.
good luck with your truck!
And be aware, cold tests are not always 100% accurate, with a good chance of a false negative since it sometimes takes heat to open up any cracks in the block..
If you are taking the block out, you can get to some of the bellhousing bolts from underneath, then after you raise it and take out the motor mounts you can lower it to get the 4 top bolts out.
Then there are two bolts, one on each side half way up the bellhousing that are the hardest to get to and you will need like a 20" or 24" extension and a universal joint swivel for your socket. Those two bolts a kind of hard to get to but not real hard. just hard to see and to get the socket to stay on. be sure you have the transmission supported good before you separate it.
Look at the top of you sleeves and see if any have any hammering compared to the other ones. the bevel area around the top edge, like it has been banging up against the head. also if you have the oil pan off turn the crank and see if all of the sleeves are seated all the way down like the rest. you can turn the crank with a ratchet and socket on your balancer pulley bolt to move each piston up out of the way so you can see the bottom of the sleeves/liners. alot depends on where you head gasket gave out at, near the end cylinders may be a head gasket, water in any of the center cylinders better chance you have bigger problems. Only way to test that is with a pressure test. Sleeves can be slipping and the block still not cracked behind the sleeve they just bounce up and down and tic, tic ,tic. You can also have a cracked block and not have a slipped sleeve.
The number# 7 sleeve in my daily driver moved up and down and ticked for 30K miles before I started using a 180 thermostat the tick stopped or hasn't ticked for a long, long time. could start back tomorrow. The head gasket finally went at almost 150 K on that cylinder probably from being hammered all that time by the sleeve or just from old age. it started ticking right after 100K and ticked until about 130K or so and I started using the 180 thermostat and it stopped ticking and then went another 15K or so before the head gasket went.
If you do pull the engine and you haven't removed your radiater, I would do that since if the engine swings forward when you break it loose from the trans or lifting it out it may wreck you radiator. It can be done without removing it but makes everything much easier to get to.
Be careful with everything, make sure you truck is supported safely on stands if you have it jacked up while removing the bellhousing bolts and watch your fingers while fooling around with the motor mounts. and if you have never did this type of work or even if you have, I would advise not doing any of this while home alone. Have your wife or somebody around to check on you. Accidents can happen and it's always best to have someone around.
and finally, expect to bust your knuckles and leave plenty of skin all under the truck. I personally can't wear gloves and do mechanic work.... unless it freezing outside and I have to. If you can, then it may be a good idea.
good luck with your truck!
I'm learning a lot, and every bit of advice helps!