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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 05:05 PM
  #11  
Paul Grant's Avatar
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To remove the engine in the state you currently have it, all you need to do is remove the 8 13mm bolts along the top of the bellhousing, the 4 13mm bolts (2 per side) on the two lower sides of the motor (below where the starter was and behind the transmission cooler lines on the left side), remove the 2 13mm bolts that go through the bellhousing at the very bottom of the engine and then remove the two 18mm nuts on the engine mounts.

Attach a chain to the engine using a pair of head bolts with large washers. Lift the engine out with an inexpensive engine lift. From where you're at, it shouldn't take more than an hour or two.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 07:51 PM
  #12  
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Well, just my opinion but, by looking at the pics in your other threads and the symptoms leading up till now, I would have to agree, you probably do have a cracked block, slipped sleeve or pinhole or (not so pin) hole in your sleeve on #5. May be a tiny hole right near the clean spot at the top of that sleeve? The top beveled area of that sleeve doesn't look bad like it's been hammering the head but, something's definitely going on to let water in that cylinder and since that cylinder is not next to a water passage in the gasket area, only a couple of ways it could get in there....and none of them are good. I see you do have water in #7 and if that were all it may have been just a head gasket, but with the steam cleaned piston in #5 it's probably more.

But.... don't give up on your truck, even it if does have a cracked block. You can always get another block. You are now down to where you only have a hand full of moving parts left in the engine. And those are parts big enough that you can actually see what you're working on, much easier than some of the small finicky parts scattered all around these trucks.

I'm thinking since you were able take your engine down this far you will be able finish the job! I'm sure you have the rave manual and overhaul section and you have the forums and youtube and all the other resources available. Overhauling an engine is really not as hard as you would think. My first overhaul I didn't have any help, just books and followed step by step until it was done. Just take it slow, double check everything and then check it again and you'll be fine.

I would carry the heads and block to have tested for cracks. May cost you a little to have it all tested out, but then it will be settled and you'll know what you have. By looking at your old threads, you have been having overheating and cooling system problems for awhile . The sludge in your throttle body awhile back was probably from water in the cylinder. All of those problems finally led up to this or were a result of this.

You may try what Chris RoverMasterTech suggested with the blue devil. I think pinkytoe69 did something like that and had good results. Go check his threads. Or if you like your truck and feel up to the task, source a good used block with a 30 day warranty. Then when you get the block carry it straight to a good machine shop and have it hot pressure tested and checked out so you will have that out of the way. Then if it doesn't pass the test you will still be inside of your warranty period.

Then just take all of the parts from your block and move over to the good block. Crank, rods, pistons, and everything with all new bearings and seals. I have seen bare blocks on ebay with a 30 day guarantee in the past for around $300 or $350 from good sellers. Prices vary and buyer beware when it comes to ebay.

So, if you do need a replacement block be sure to check out the seller. There are good sellers and there are bad sellers. And you have to ask the questions, why is this block for sale? why is it not still together with it's other parts, etc.? No reputable seller would sell a block that he knows will come back on him. They are not in the business of shipping bad parts back and forth. If they know a part is no good they will scrap it, while an individual seller (not all but some) with little to no reputation may sell anything, so it's better to pay a little more to buy from someone that is in the business of selling parts and looks after their customers by standing behind what they sell. Or from one of the forum members that's been around for awhile and is known to be a straight up honest person.

Then with the good block, pressure tested at the machine shop, decks checked, new cam bearings, etc., you could from there do a complete overhaul while going back up. You are already way ahead of the game by doing the work yourself and not spending $3K or more plus parts to have it done.

Or you could source a used engine from a reputable seller with a 30 or 60 day guarantee for $1500 to $2,000 or more depending on mileage and drop it in and hope for the best after your warranty. Drop in used engines are for people who are in a hurry or people who can't do the mechanic work on their engine. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drop in used engine if you need to be back up and running in the least amount of time but, If you can do the work, you can get much more bang for the buck by building an engine.... especially so since you have most all of the main components for the build already.

If you buy just the bare block, and doing all the mechanic work yourself, you could do an overhaul with machine work including have the crank polished, align bored, block decked if needed, cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs, rebuilt heads, all new bearings, new timing set, new cam, lifters, new oil pump gears, and the whole nine yards for about the price of a good used engine and when finished you would know what you have.

Anyway it all really depends on the overall condition of your truck and if you want to spend the time and money on it. If you like your truck, go for it. If you don't really feel like doing all of the work, then just part it out or sell it as is and move on. Or buy another and drive it, until somewhere down the road you get to make all of these decisions again!

If I remember your truck only had like 112K or something so after you get your engine problems sorted out, you should have plenty of miles left so, unless it has been really neglected or abused really bad it should be worth fixing.

I know you didn't ask for all this drivel but, I could see you are kind of to a point where you are trying to figure out what to do and how to do it so, just thought I would put my .02 out there to help you think it all through a little.

also FYI..If you do end up needing a used block or engine, Paul Grant above is a good source for parts and he would be my first choice since he's right here trying to help you with your problem. Then if he doesn't have what you need there are other forum members that sell used parts as well.

Oh and BTW, if you haven't drained the coolant out of your oil pan yet you should do that asap and not let it sit on the crank and all.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; Jul 28, 2014 at 09:31 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 09:09 AM
  #13  
walkingzach's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RicketyTick
Well, just my opinion but, by looking at the pics in your other threads and the symptoms leading up till now, I would have to agree, you probably do have a cracked block, slipped sleeve or pinhole or (not so pin) hole in your sleeve on #5. May be a tiny hole right near the clean spot at the top of that sleeve? The top beveled area of that sleeve doesn't look bad like it's been hammering the head but, something's definitely going on to let water in that cylinder and since that cylinder is not next to a water passage in the gasket area, only a couple of ways it could get in there....and none of them are good. I see you do have water in #7 and if that were all it may have been just a head gasket, but with the steam cleaned piston in #5 it's probably more.

But.... don't give up on your truck, even it if does have a cracked block. You can always get another block. You are now down to where you only have a hand full of moving parts left in the engine. And those are parts big enough that you can actually see what you're working on, much easier than some of the small finicky parts scattered all around these trucks.

I'm thinking since you were able take your engine down this far you will be able finish the job! I'm sure you have the rave manual and overhaul section and you have the forums and youtube and all the other resources available. Overhauling an engine is really not as hard as you would think. My first overhaul I didn't have any help, just books and followed step by step until it was done. Just take it slow, double check everything and then check it again and you'll be fine.

I would carry the heads and block to have tested for cracks. May cost you a little to have it all tested out, but then it will be settled and you'll know what you have. By looking at your old threads, you have been having overheating and cooling system problems for awhile . The sludge in your throttle body awhile back was probably from water in the cylinder. All of those problems finally led up to this or were a result of this.

You may try what Chris RoverMasterTech suggested with the blue devil. I think pinkytoe69 did something like that and had good results. Go check his threads. Or if you like your truck and feel up to the task, source a good used block with a 30 day warranty. Then when you get the block carry it straight to a good machine shop and have it hot pressure tested and checked out so you will have that out of the way. Then if it doesn't pass the test you will still be inside of your warranty period.

Then just take all of the parts from your block and move over to the good block. Crank, rods, pistons, and everything with all new bearings and seals. I have seen bare blocks on ebay with a 30 day guarantee in the past for around $300 or $350 from good sellers. Prices vary and buyer beware when it comes to ebay.

So, if you do need a replacement block be sure to check out the seller. There are good sellers and there are bad sellers. And you have to ask the questions, why is this block for sale? why is it not still together with it's other parts, etc.? No reputable seller would sell a block that he knows will come back on him. They are not in the business of shipping bad parts back and forth. If they know a part is no good they will scrap it, while an individual seller (not all but some) with little to no reputation may sell anything, so it's better to pay a little more to buy from someone that is in the business of selling parts and looks after their customers by standing behind what they sell. Or from one of the forum members that's been around for awhile and is known to be a straight up honest person.

Then with the good block, pressure tested at the machine shop, decks checked, new cam bearings, etc., you could from there do a complete overhaul while going back up. You are already way ahead of the game by doing the work yourself and not spending $3K or more plus parts to have it done.

Or you could source a used engine from a reputable seller with a 30 or 60 day guarantee for $1500 to $2,000 or more depending on mileage and drop it in and hope for the best after your warranty. Drop in used engines are for people who are in a hurry or people who can't do the mechanic work on their engine. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drop in used engine if you need to be back up and running in the least amount of time but, If you can do the work, you can get much more bang for the buck by building an engine.... especially so since you have most all of the main components for the build already.

If you buy just the bare block, and doing all the mechanic work yourself, you could do an overhaul with machine work including have the crank polished, align bored, block decked if needed, cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs, rebuilt heads, all new bearings, new timing set, new cam, lifters, new oil pump gears, and the whole nine yards for about the price of a good used engine and when finished you would know what you have.

Anyway it all really depends on the overall condition of your truck and if you want to spend the time and money on it. If you like your truck, go for it. If you don't really feel like doing all of the work, then just part it out or sell it as is and move on. Or buy another and drive it, until somewhere down the road you get to make all of these decisions again!

If I remember your truck only had like 112K or something so after you get your engine problems sorted out, you should have plenty of miles left so, unless it has been really neglected or abused really bad it should be worth fixing.

I know you didn't ask for all this drivel but, I could see you are kind of to a point where you are trying to figure out what to do and how to do it so, just thought I would put my .02 out there to help you think it all through a little.

also FYI..If you do end up needing a used block or engine, Paul Grant above is a good source for parts and he would be my first choice since he's right here trying to help you with your problem. Then if he doesn't have what you need there are other forum members that sell used parts as well.

Oh and BTW, if you haven't drained the coolant out of your oil pan yet you should do that asap and not let it sit on the crank and all.
thank you for all the valuable information...and for your 2 cents
any opinions are much appreciated

so thank you to all that have helped out.

i am working on this regularly and will be providing updates along the way
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 11:00 AM
  #14  
ZGPhoto's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Burlington, VT
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That was closer to a dollar than 2 cents. Well stated!
 
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