I AM NEW! Looking for a D2, what do I need to know?
1. buy a 2004. don't settle for anything older, they are less equipped and uglier.
The only advantage of an 04 D2 is the CDL being fitted from the factory. That's it IMHO. Even then if you have a 99-02 chances are pretty good you have the CDL nipple and just need the linkage and SLABS unit. I consider the plastic headlights, SAI, egg shell front bumper, 4.6L all disadvantages vs a 99-02.
I've owned 99 to 04 D2's and I've come to prefer the 4.0L and earlier model years. In 99-02 LR was trying to push the D2 so they had a lot more options at the time. 03-04 LR didn't seem to care as much since the LR3 was just about to be released and the D2 and it's 40 year old V8 were going into the history books.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6061625455.html
This is about twice the price I'd like to see but sure looks to be in nice shape. I like the newer year lights a lot more but if they're plastic, as mentioned I'll have to do some work to make them clear again and freshen them up. I do hear better things about the EMS running a richer AFR during cruise helping them to run safer. Whatever that is worth if even true. Honestly, I just care more about it's condition and reliability more than the rest of the things.
This is about twice the price I'd like to see but sure looks to be in nice shape. I like the newer year lights a lot more but if they're plastic, as mentioned I'll have to do some work to make them clear again and freshen them up. I do hear better things about the EMS running a richer AFR during cruise helping them to run safer. Whatever that is worth if even true. Honestly, I just care more about it's condition and reliability more than the rest of the things.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6061625455.html
This is about twice the price I'd like to see but sure looks to be in nice shape. I like the newer year lights a lot more but if they're plastic, as mentioned I'll have to do some work to make them clear again and freshen them up. I do hear better things about the EMS running a richer AFR during cruise helping them to run safer. Whatever that is worth if even true. Honestly, I just care more about it's condition and reliability more than the rest of the things.
This is about twice the price I'd like to see but sure looks to be in nice shape. I like the newer year lights a lot more but if they're plastic, as mentioned I'll have to do some work to make them clear again and freshen them up. I do hear better things about the EMS running a richer AFR during cruise helping them to run safer. Whatever that is worth if even true. Honestly, I just care more about it's condition and reliability more than the rest of the things.
-Greg
I have bought 5. This is what I look for:
1. 2002 or earlier with 4.0 and no SAI
2. White with tan or grey interior. White paint holds up better - I hate black interiors.
3. Regular (not rebuilt title) No history of major collision. (bent frame)
4. Buy from area that doesn't salt the roads. (look underneath)
5. I look for ones in nice shape but with blown HG. $600-$1000
1. 2002 or earlier with 4.0 and no SAI
2. White with tan or grey interior. White paint holds up better - I hate black interiors.
3. Regular (not rebuilt title) No history of major collision. (bent frame)
4. Buy from area that doesn't salt the roads. (look underneath)
5. I look for ones in nice shape but with blown HG. $600-$1000
I have bought 5. This is what I look for:
1. 2002 or earlier with 4.0 and no SAI
2. White with tan or grey interior. White paint holds up better - I hate black interiors.
3. Regular (not rebuilt title) No history of major collision. (bent frame)
4. Buy from area that doesn't salt the roads. (look underneath)
5. I look for ones in nice shape but with blown HG. $600-$1000
1. 2002 or earlier with 4.0 and no SAI
2. White with tan or grey interior. White paint holds up better - I hate black interiors.
3. Regular (not rebuilt title) No history of major collision. (bent frame)
4. Buy from area that doesn't salt the roads. (look underneath)
5. I look for ones in nice shape but with blown HG. $600-$1000
-Greg
What do you need to know about Discos?!
The Good:
FANTASTIC off-road 4x4. Hill Descent is gold. Water fording up to mid-way on the transmission is no problem. Limited slip and traction control work ok.
Fantastic AC. Nice seats and decent interiors. Lots of cup-holders!
Everything bolts/unbolts simply. Plus there is plenty of room to maneuver tools, e.g. I just replaced all of the roller bearings in the bottom end of my 4.6 Disco motor without even lifting the truck (just dropped the oil pan and unbolted the rod caps).
The 4.0 and 4.6 motors are not Interference motors so a broken timing chain won't blow the rest of your motor.
The Land Rover 5.0 motor is a bolt-in replacement (about $6,400 new/rebuilt online).
The different:
Discos with navigation need a code for the radio or else they can go into anti-theft mode if your battery dies.
Discos with a dead battery may not be able to naturally shift out of Park (there's a workaround underneath the shift lever, though).
Disco fanatics call the Neutral Safety Switch their xyz switch. This is one of the few parts that isn't always available on the cheap, even used (you can open it up and repair it, though).
There's only 1 key-entry location on Discos...your driver door.
You have to press in your ignition key for it to turn to remove it while in Park.
FM antenna is on the driver-side back window.
AM antenna is on the passenger-side back passenger window.
Air intake for the motor is through the driver's front upper fender-well.
Oddball OEM coolant sucks, but is easily replaced.
Rear driveshaft uses a rubber gasket to dampen vibrations...that wears fairly rapidly. Some Disco owners carry a spare in the vehicle as it is easily replaced on the fly.
AC head unit is just held in by press-release side-tabs.
28mm (1 1/16") Lug bolts on wheels don't match spare tire lug bolts.
Oil on your crank position sensor, water in your xyz switch, a low battery voltage, or a failed transmission ecu (cheap to replace with used units) can all cause your Disco to go into 3rd-gear-only limp-home mode (noted on your dash by the M and S lights illuminated).
Radically higher air pressure for your rear two tires. Also, 16" tires are cheap; 18" tires are expensive.
The Bad:
Weak engine blocks. Overheating can easily crack a 4.6 or even 4.0 block.
Cylinder sleeves can slip.
Front driveshaft tends to fail only a few hundred miles after lifting an otherwise stock Disco 2" or more (aftermarket workarounds).
Neutral Safety Switch (oops, xyz switch) wiring can move, breaking the watertight seal...best to not let water into there.
Heater core tends to clog or fail.
Coolant thermostat opens too hot (aftermarket versions open at 82C instead of 88C). Most older Discos run hot, but you don't want these motors to overheat.
Low oil pressure tends to wear motor bearings (and vice versa).
You have to crawl underneath, open bolts, and poke a straw into your front axle differential, center transfer case, automatic transmission, and rear axle differential to check/fill their fluid levels (often neglected by prior owners).
The Good:
FANTASTIC off-road 4x4. Hill Descent is gold. Water fording up to mid-way on the transmission is no problem. Limited slip and traction control work ok.
Fantastic AC. Nice seats and decent interiors. Lots of cup-holders!
Everything bolts/unbolts simply. Plus there is plenty of room to maneuver tools, e.g. I just replaced all of the roller bearings in the bottom end of my 4.6 Disco motor without even lifting the truck (just dropped the oil pan and unbolted the rod caps).
The 4.0 and 4.6 motors are not Interference motors so a broken timing chain won't blow the rest of your motor.
The Land Rover 5.0 motor is a bolt-in replacement (about $6,400 new/rebuilt online).
The different:
Discos with navigation need a code for the radio or else they can go into anti-theft mode if your battery dies.
Discos with a dead battery may not be able to naturally shift out of Park (there's a workaround underneath the shift lever, though).
Disco fanatics call the Neutral Safety Switch their xyz switch. This is one of the few parts that isn't always available on the cheap, even used (you can open it up and repair it, though).
There's only 1 key-entry location on Discos...your driver door.
You have to press in your ignition key for it to turn to remove it while in Park.
FM antenna is on the driver-side back window.
AM antenna is on the passenger-side back passenger window.
Air intake for the motor is through the driver's front upper fender-well.
Oddball OEM coolant sucks, but is easily replaced.
Rear driveshaft uses a rubber gasket to dampen vibrations...that wears fairly rapidly. Some Disco owners carry a spare in the vehicle as it is easily replaced on the fly.
AC head unit is just held in by press-release side-tabs.
28mm (1 1/16") Lug bolts on wheels don't match spare tire lug bolts.
Oil on your crank position sensor, water in your xyz switch, a low battery voltage, or a failed transmission ecu (cheap to replace with used units) can all cause your Disco to go into 3rd-gear-only limp-home mode (noted on your dash by the M and S lights illuminated).
Radically higher air pressure for your rear two tires. Also, 16" tires are cheap; 18" tires are expensive.
The Bad:
Weak engine blocks. Overheating can easily crack a 4.6 or even 4.0 block.
Cylinder sleeves can slip.
Front driveshaft tends to fail only a few hundred miles after lifting an otherwise stock Disco 2" or more (aftermarket workarounds).
Neutral Safety Switch (oops, xyz switch) wiring can move, breaking the watertight seal...best to not let water into there.
Heater core tends to clog or fail.
Coolant thermostat opens too hot (aftermarket versions open at 82C instead of 88C). Most older Discos run hot, but you don't want these motors to overheat.
Low oil pressure tends to wear motor bearings (and vice versa).
You have to crawl underneath, open bolts, and poke a straw into your front axle differential, center transfer case, automatic transmission, and rear axle differential to check/fill their fluid levels (often neglected by prior owners).
Last edited by No Doubt; Jul 21, 2017 at 07:31 PM.
Wow, fantastic info! Noted and memorized!
What do you need to know about Discos?!
The Good:
FANTASTIC off-road 4x4. Hill Descent is gold. Water fording up to mid-way on the transmission is no problem. Limited slip and traction control work ok.
Fantastic AC. Nice seats and decent interiors. Lots of cup-holders!
Everything bolts/unbolts simply. Plus there is plenty of room to maneuver tools, e.g. I just replaced all of the roller bearings in the bottom end of my 4.6 Disco motor without even lifting the truck (just dropped the oil pan and unbolted the rod caps).
The 4.0 and 4.6 motors are not Interference motors so a broken timing chain won't blow the rest of your motor.
The Land Rover 5.0 motor is a bolt-in replacement (about $6,400 new/rebuilt online).
The different:
Discos with navigation need a code for the radio or else they can go into anti-theft mode if your battery dies.
Discos with a dead battery may not be able to naturally shift out of Park (there's a workaround underneath the shift lever, though).
Disco fanatics call the Neutral Safety Switch their xyz switch. This is one of the few parts that isn't always available on the cheap, even used (you can open it up and repair it, though).
There's only 1 key-entry location on Discos...your driver door.
You have to press in your ignition key for it to turn to remove it while in Park.
FM antenna is on the driver-side back window.
AM antenna is on the passenger-side back passenger window.
Air intake for the motor is through the driver's front upper fender-well.
Oddball OEM coolant sucks, but is easily replaced.
Rear driveshaft uses a rubber gasket to dampen vibrations...that wears fairly rapidly. Some Disco owners carry a spare in the vehicle as it is easily replaced on the fly.
AC head unit is just held in by press-release side-tabs.
28mm (1 1/16") Lug bolts on wheels don't match spare tire lug bolts.
Oil on your crank position sensor, water in your xyz switch, a low battery voltage, or a failed transmission ecu (cheap to replace with used units) can all cause your Disco to go into 3rd-gear-only limp-home mode (noted on your dash by the M and S lights illuminated).
Radically higher air pressure for your rear two tires. Also, 16" tires are cheap; 18" tires are expensive.
The Bad:
Weak engine blocks. Overheating can easily crack a 4.6 or even 4.0 block.
Cylinder sleeves can slip.
Front driveshaft tends to fail only a few hundred miles after lifting an otherwise stock Disco 2" or more (aftermarket workarounds).
Neutral Safety Switch (oops, xyz switch) wiring can move, breaking the watertight seal...best to not let water into there.
Heater core tends to clog or fail.
Coolant thermostat opens too hot (aftermarket versions open at 82C instead of 88C). Most older Discos run hot, but you don't want these motors to overheat.
Low oil pressure tends to wear motor bearings (and vice versa).
You have to crawl underneath, open bolts, and poke a straw into your front axle differential, center transfer case, automatic transmission, and rear axle differential to check/fill their fluid levels (often neglected by prior owners).
The Good:
FANTASTIC off-road 4x4. Hill Descent is gold. Water fording up to mid-way on the transmission is no problem. Limited slip and traction control work ok.
Fantastic AC. Nice seats and decent interiors. Lots of cup-holders!
Everything bolts/unbolts simply. Plus there is plenty of room to maneuver tools, e.g. I just replaced all of the roller bearings in the bottom end of my 4.6 Disco motor without even lifting the truck (just dropped the oil pan and unbolted the rod caps).
The 4.0 and 4.6 motors are not Interference motors so a broken timing chain won't blow the rest of your motor.
The Land Rover 5.0 motor is a bolt-in replacement (about $6,400 new/rebuilt online).
The different:
Discos with navigation need a code for the radio or else they can go into anti-theft mode if your battery dies.
Discos with a dead battery may not be able to naturally shift out of Park (there's a workaround underneath the shift lever, though).
Disco fanatics call the Neutral Safety Switch their xyz switch. This is one of the few parts that isn't always available on the cheap, even used (you can open it up and repair it, though).
There's only 1 key-entry location on Discos...your driver door.
You have to press in your ignition key for it to turn to remove it while in Park.
FM antenna is on the driver-side back window.
AM antenna is on the passenger-side back passenger window.
Air intake for the motor is through the driver's front upper fender-well.
Oddball OEM coolant sucks, but is easily replaced.
Rear driveshaft uses a rubber gasket to dampen vibrations...that wears fairly rapidly. Some Disco owners carry a spare in the vehicle as it is easily replaced on the fly.
AC head unit is just held in by press-release side-tabs.
28mm (1 1/16") Lug bolts on wheels don't match spare tire lug bolts.
Oil on your crank position sensor, water in your xyz switch, a low battery voltage, or a failed transmission ecu (cheap to replace with used units) can all cause your Disco to go into 3rd-gear-only limp-home mode (noted on your dash by the M and S lights illuminated).
Radically higher air pressure for your rear two tires. Also, 16" tires are cheap; 18" tires are expensive.
The Bad:
Weak engine blocks. Overheating can easily crack a 4.6 or even 4.0 block.
Cylinder sleeves can slip.
Front driveshaft tends to fail only a few hundred miles after lifting an otherwise stock Disco 2" or more (aftermarket workarounds).
Neutral Safety Switch (oops, xyz switch) wiring can move, breaking the watertight seal...best to not let water into there.
Heater core tends to clog or fail.
Coolant thermostat opens too hot (aftermarket versions open at 82C instead of 88C). Most older Discos run hot, but you don't want these motors to overheat.
Low oil pressure tends to wear motor bearings (and vice versa).
You have to crawl underneath, open bolts, and poke a straw into your front axle differential, center transfer case, automatic transmission, and rear axle differential to check/fill their fluid levels (often neglected by prior owners).


