2003 D2: Thinking that when I last looked into this a Magnaflow was suggested,....but I see they are now $200 each on ebay. Anyone found a more reasonably priced cat.

Brian in Cedar Park

 

Rockauto has a Walker Y-pipe assembly that's 49 state legal for $430, and some slightly cheaper 48 state legal one's ($300 range). I used the walker 49 state one on my Blue '04 before I got rid of it. Fit was was good and overall construction was decent. The only issue was passenger side cat heat-shield was very close to the front shaft on the truck that had a 2" TF lift. The front shaft balance weight would hit the heat-shield if the the wheel was turned a lot at a dead stop and then you took off. There was enough suspension bind that it would just nick it. BUT the truck did not have a adjustable panhard bar so the axle was not perfectly centered. It really was nothing a slight tap of a hammer would take care of. It happened so infrequently I never did anything with it. I never clock the wheel before accelerating from a stop - it really only happened to my fiance'.

 

BC,
How do you know you need a replacement cat, do you have fault codes, if so what are they.
If you have a bad cat, what caused it, should fix the problem before replacing anything.

 

Hey Mike, I've been getting a CEL and "Catalytic efficiency below threshold bank 2" message for well over a year. I managed to sneak it through my last state inspection after I reset the code and drove it long enough for everything to be ready. Also occasionally get a message regarding one of my O2 sensors. Going out to check current codes.

OK, todays codes are:
PO134-O2S CKT NO ACTIVITY DETECTED 1/1
PO430-CATALYTIC EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD BANK 2
P1450-MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC DTC
PO133-O2S SLOW RESPONSED 1/1

The PO430 has come back every time after probably a dozen resets over the last year and a half. Sometimes takes a few hundred miles for it to come back on. All the other codes are recent,....in the last two months

 

So, how many miles on it and have you ever replace both front 02 sensors?

 

It shows 165K now, but the odometer has been flashing since I bought it 2 years ago. Im told that means someone may have either replaced part of the odometer or attempted to somehow change the miles indicated. The title showed that the owner prior to me bought it with something like 170 or 180K indicated,....so my best guess is 200K now.

I considered having the Odo reset with the Test Book procedure, but,....why bother. I plan on keeping this truck indefinitely.

I replaced both the front O2 sensors with correct Bosch sensors 2 years ago. Curiously the new driver's side O2 sensor did not work,....so I put the old one back in and I had no codes for about a year of driving with a daily commute of about 60 miles.

 

I have the Y-pipe I took off my 2000 D2 last month taking up space in my garage. 140K miles and no converter codes from it ever.

PM me if interested.

 

For what it is worth, the reason they call the cluster light, idiot light, is self explanatory.
You never disregard a flash check engine light, had you felt with it back then, you wouldn't be needing to make some costly repairs.

 

He answered your question, man. Why this BS? I noticed that your more recent posts after your absence were tempered a bit. But slowly your stripes are beginning to show. I am not really sure why you take all of this so seriously. These are $1k to $5k toys.

I am constantly impressed by the OP's and their restraint after you hit post reply with a condescending/snide/rude/ assholey responses.

 

Frank,
Do you even know the reasons for a good forum, it is to learn and for you to say that my reply was BS is not right.
You have to admit that driving for a year plus on a flashing CEL is stupid and now he has to pay the a lot more in repair then if he just took care of the original issue when warned by the CEL.