As I posted earlier I have a slow leak draining my battery if I leave it sitting overnight. It was suggested to me that it could be my suspension because of my change to coils but I can't find any other examples of this and a service tech at LR knoxville says hes never heard of it, so I'm back to square one. How do I test it? I can borrow a voltometer from work but I do not know what settings to put it on or what to look for. Could someone please walk me through this process? I will go get a pic of the voltometer and post it so you can see what I am working with. Thanks, Jay

 

You'll need a voltmeter that reads amps.
Some only go to milliamps, which might be enough for the drain you have, but personally I'd use one that read 5 or 10amps or so, especially if it's not protected by a fuse.
Then connect it between your battery and the positive lead, read the amp (or milliamp) draw and start removing fuses until the draw drops to what ever is "normal" for your year/model. If it's below an amp draw, you may have to adjust the range to read it.

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place a small vice grip onto the negative post. Hook a jumper wire fromt he negative battery cable to the vice grip. Wait 1/2 hour to an hour for all the elctronics to go to "sleep". Set your voltmeter to DC amps. Hook up your test leads to the negative battery cable and the vice grip. Disconnect your jumper wire. The reading you get will be your amperage draw. Should be 15-20 milliamps (.015-.020). If it is above that, start pulling fuses and relays until that reading goes down. Do this one by one to pinpoint what circuit is causing your draw. Once you find the circuit(s), start chasing your wires down looking for chafed and damaged wires. Good luck and have fun!

 

Ok sounds like a lot of fun. I am unsure about what you are talking about in regards to the vicegrips and jumper wire however... Everything else makes sense though.

 

Does the truck make any sounds after you shut it off? Any clicking? Any humming? Anything?

 

"Ok sounds like a lot of fun. I am unsure about what you are talking about in regards to the vicegrips and jumper wire however... Everything else makes sense though."


A jumper wire is just a small gauge wire with alligator clips on both ends. The vice grip on the battery post just makes it easier to get the little alligator and test lead clips to stay put. (connect the jumper wire and test lead to the vice grip)

 

Spike: No I can't hear anything with the truck off and it just started after I replaced my CKPS and relay so I will start there first.
Britishracinggreen: Thanks for the clarification. I will try this as soon as I have free time.

 

I would find a different dealer or maybe an independent shop. I had the exact same problem and it had to do with switching the air bags to coils. I know that they have to program your truck to read that it has coils and not SLS. I also noticed that the button that normally would raise the rear end doesn't even click anymore. I had my truck dying for a couple of months before I got it fixed. Since then I haven't even worried if it would start. Or if you are really wanting to track down the leak with a multimeter, I would start with the SLS system. Good Luck

 

Malmberg: Was that you that told me this originally? I couldn't remember which forum I had it posted when I got that answer. I am really hoping that you are correct but I really don't want to pay $90 bucks to clear a light I could give two ***** about and still have to pay to fix the issue... Did the dealer say what was draining it? I assumed that when I disconnected the relay and fuse that no power was reaching the system and I removed the height position sensors as well. Thanks again for your response and I will def be leaning towards that approach.

 

well when did the drain begin? was it after your switch to springs? you know i can probably take that old 2a off your hands so you can concentrate on this electrical gremlin in your D2....