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I plug welded a customers sleeves.

Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #41  
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I believe the reference to o-rings was talking about flanged liners. So if you've got an o-ring at the bottom to hold any possible coolant back, and a flange at the top to seal against the headgasket, sealing back coolant and keeping combustion gasses in the cylinder, I don't see how an o-ring would be an issue. I'd certainly rather have liners that at least have it as an option.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:39 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by cappedup
I'm assuming that when people pin the liners with bolts they use the correct size. To say they might hit the piston as they are too long..... Well.

Yes, the weld will shrink. My bigger concern would be the depth of penetration into the liner. The 'pin' that is created with the slug of weld, is only as good as the point it fixes to the liner. I don't know what the shear forces are between the block and the liner as it moves but it must be considerable.

I've never felt confident using a screw thread in a shear force situation, which is why I brought up threads. The valleys of the threads act as points of weakness where micro cracks can appear and the bolt fails in that allplication.

I would be happier to see a smooth pin which is a great tolerance fit in a hole.

That would be the best of both worlds in my (not a real engineer) eyes.

You have a great way of being negative Drow
I thought about that. That hole is actually 3/8", with 2 holes per sleeve, that's a lot of surface area. As you can see from the pictures, the aluminum also liquefies and sets with the weld, there is no room for the weld to move at all.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:49 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
just with out thread exactly, so when this plug weld cools it is not going to shrink, of course it is. and seeing as it is not fused to the hole (aluminium) that was drilled in the block, it will loosen.

hey why not use brass self tapping screws, screw them right thru the block,
don't worry about the length the piston skirt will brake it off on the down stroke.

fill up you torches and sharpen those drill bit, the cure is here
King hyperbole here cant fathom easy fixes. 7k posts and still clueless. Talking about sleeving a block and don't know where the o-ring is in relation to the combustion chamber. Says getting your motor top hatted is "1500 out the door".

Just stop dude. Guys like you and armyrover are the reason I don't post here anymore. I'm out here helping people and doing writeups and economical fixes and giving people USEFULL advice, and you guys just act like ******. **** off.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:54 PM
  #44  
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alright alright alright.

How about this? We run a bead weld around the top of the liner on the block deck, then grind down the weld until it's flush?! Should be good, right?

 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:54 PM
  #45  
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imo this looks like a great idea for keeping a customer in thier car, if you tell them i can try to fix it for 1500 or you need an engine for 5k ( give or take) which probly means they will junk the truck then that 1500 looks like a viable option to me, if it works for a year or ten it is borrowed time anyhow, plus welding overhead sucks lol

not everyone has the ability to rebuild thier own engine or the funds to pay for a engine job
 

Last edited by TOM R; Jun 9, 2015 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
King hyperbole here cant fathom easy fixes. 7k posts and still clueless. Talking about sleeving a block and don't know where the o-ring is in relation to the combustion chamber. Says getting your motor top hatted is "1500 out the door".

Just stop dude. Guys like you and armyrover are the reason I don't post here anymore. I'm out here helping people and doing writeups and economical fixes and giving people USEFULL advice, and you guys just act like ******. **** off.
With the departure of some of our more sarcastic members I think drowssap has decided to fill the void. I ran into the same thing a few days ago.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #47  
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Keep the repair ideas, advise, and common sence coming RMT.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 01:50 PM
  #48  
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Looks like a viable fix option for me. Hell, I was at a land rover shop the other day and they charged a customer $1100 to change wires, plugs,coils and injector seals.

$1500 to salvage my slipped liner motor would sound amazing if I was that customer.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
the only reason the combustion gases happen inside the bore is if you have a block with flagged liner.
Stock liners are not flanged, the head gasket dont even cover them,so therefore when you have a crack behind the sleeve (like most) the gases go into your cooling system pressurizing it.
that fact that all the sleeve were ticking in the engine says there was a problem at one time or you believe every rover ticks
A few things...

The Darton liners with O-Rings are top hatted (go back and re-read the original comment). Top hatted liners definitely seal against the HG, and the O ring (that won't be seeing combustion gases) is designed to retain hot coolant, so again, what are you talking about?

And a moving, ticking sleeve does not automatically mean a compromise with the block wall. There are literally hundreds of instances where the sleeve moved with no compromise of the wall between the sleeve and water jacket. I thought this was all common knowledge?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 02:15 PM
  #50  
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as tom said IF you told everyone that this could get you a little longer fine.
It is not the CURE and if it doesnt work when the next big CURE comes around you wont be able to do it because your block will be trash.
Hey I gave the guy his props for trying, but "I" dont think tis is it.
And there is no magical O-ring below where he is plugging. Works over
 

Last edited by drowssap; Jun 9, 2015 at 02:20 PM.
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