hi guys, by removing fuzes one at a time and watching a meter connected to the battery...i was able to isolate two circuits draining the battery...the abs system and the body control system (which i am unfamiliar with) . can anyone share their experience with this happening? ive shared earlier that my battery has been dying if left for two-three days without driving the truck...now i know why. but what i need to figure out is 1) if this drain is normal and 2) if i have a bad battery?

 

This is uncanny. The third thread on this topic in the last three days.

A common cause of a phantom battery drain is if the truck originally had SLS (self-leveling suspension), also known as air springs, in the rear and they were replaced with coils. If the ABS computer, which also controls the self leveling system, doesn’t have the setting changed from air springs to coils it can cause a battery drain because the computer from time to time tries to activate the air suspension compressor, even with the truck off.

Was your truck converted from SLS to coils?

 

and this morning after reattaching them it wouldnt crank over...just a click which makes me think the BCU is preventing starter from cranking. is there a way to bypass the BCU? removing the fuze doesnt work.

 

Bump resurrection. I am having these symptoms and am looking for a solution. I just bought the vehicle this summer and can't seem to figure out what the culprit is.

Thanks!
Rick

 

Sounds like a challenge But what I noticed is there is always a noise coming from that area of the abs system under the hood it’s normal so you might be getting small amp draw but probably not the issue

 

It’s normal to have some amp draw. ECU’s and ABS just for starters, radio memory and a few others.

 

Thought I would update this thread to tell everyone how goes it if they have a similar issue ..

Somehow the light issue has corrected itself. Both lights are off and dim and turn on like they are supposed to. This happened after 30 or so miles of driving and locking unlocking the alarm as normal. I think somehow it "learned" ...

 

Following up on this fiasco .. Oh by the way ., I just received a new "revised" quote form the dealership .. yall ready for this??




Date 04/12/2019 01:32 PM
2000 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY

TOTAL REPAIR COST: $3,157.99



Primary: C/S THAT THE ALARM SOUNDS WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOORS AND WHEN TRYING
TO START THE VEHICLE. HAPPENED AFTER THE BATTERY DIED. CHECK AND ADVISE $0.00

DESCRIPTION AND COST:


1) Primary: MPI : PERFORM COMPLIMENTARY MULTI-POINT INSPECTION $0.00
2) Body Control Module / ECU: INTERNAL FAILURE OF BODY CONTROL UNIT $1,676.11
3) Wire Repair: BCU SOUNDING HORN AT WRONG TIMES $450.00
4) Door Latch Assembly: RIGHT FRONT DOOR OPEN/CLOSED SWITCH FAILED $698.38
5) Remote: P & A KEY FOB REMOTE $180.00
Printed on April 12, 2019
Quote expires on May 12, 2019
Jaguar Land Rover

TOTAL $3,157.99

Please sign below

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Keep in mind . this quote is just for the new BCU. It does not include a new ECU.


I fixed this myself.

The cost was $100 for the ECU+BCU + WD-40 spray on the door latch. The passenger side door actuator did not even need to be repaired. If you look at the list .. they quoted $450 for "wire repair" which is I'm assuming is labor? This easy job takes about 5-10 minutes