This is cheep option on how to fix ignition switch lock. Other option is scrapyard piece or your friendly dealership new piece.
Ever since I bought her , to start I had to jiggle key in the ignition.It come to the point I had to jiggle for 5 minutes sometimes , so before winter starts I had to fix this.I will not explain how to take three Philips screw off of the plastic guard.After that there are two screws that had to be unscrewed with sharp chisel and hammer .



...when this is done you push steering ignition assembly down ...you can see steering lock pin...




...on the left side you will see black ignition switch secured with two philips screws on each side...take those screws off...slide ignition switch out...at this point you can start your truck with flat screwdriver and drive it ...only thing you will not have is steering lock , which you don't need it for driving...so in case your steering repair take more time , your truck is in driving condition...




...unplug rest of the plugs and take ignition assembly in your house or garage...you don't want to do rest in your truck...my steering ignition was worn out by 3 mm as you can see by the pic...



...on the side of the assembly you will see riveted safety pin...you will have to drill it out ...you can see how it look like removed...



..now you can slide barrel out ... slowly ...first thing that will fall off is spring for the ignition buzzer ...don't lose it...that black thing is micro-switch for the ignition buzzer , you don't have to remove it...



Once barrel is out , inside you will see spinner.Part that turns inside the barrel when you put key in to ignition.There are bras segments spring loaded , different for each lock combination.



I had two keys with my truck . One was opening door and starting the truck and other one was only opening the door.This is how it look like one that was opening only the door .No good.



And this is how it suppose to look like when inserted inside the ignition.After I fixed it.Procedure is you insert each key inside the spinner , and while key is inside all the way, you grind down all sticking out bras segments .You have to do this for each key in order to work. You can file it down or use bench grinder . I used bench grinder.My fob is ok so I didn't mess with that , I just cut out rest of the broken key.
However there is a option , instead of grinding bras segments , you can just remove sticking ones and it will work also.
For those unlucky ones who broke key inside the ignition , broken part will be find inside the spinner . Very easy removal.
For those who lost or broke all keys and now are faced with ordering new ignition assembly from your friendly neighborhood dealership (800$+).Just go to nearest locksmith and buy few blank keys and make your own. Total cost few bucks.



Installation is reverse of removal.I even used same safety pin to lock barrel back in to assembly.One who want to be really fancy , can retread it and use screw instead of the safety pin.

 

Bump any question .I have one , how come this is not sticky yet ?

 

yeah right.write ups like these makes rover life great.

 

Because some of us have to work.

 

Hey Arm and Hammer- I tried your method and it worked like a charm. Well actually I've only taken it to the starting with a screwdriver point, but I can probably live with that until I 1) find $600 laying around somewhere 2) I win the lottery... thanks Carl

 

So I did this fix over the weekend, took some pics, and thought I'd give a "boots on the ground" report. Overall I'm pleased with the results. My ignition had been sticking badly for at least a year, and after two days of driving the action is very smooth with no more sticking. The instructions above are good, so I'll just give my take on potential trouble spots.

1) Use a chisel meant for metal unless you don't mind destroying a wood one. I used for wood that already had a chip in it, but after this job it was trashed/broken. Once I had the rivet head screws out, I used a dremel and cutting wheel to make flat blade slots for reinstallation (and hopefully not removal again).

2) Drilling the retaining pin out is a bit tricky. Mine refused to come out until I was down to just a nub - not enough to reinstall. Perhaps there's a trick/technique to this, or a special bit to use that would work better. I'd love to see it if there is. I improvised and used a screw for reinstallation - I didn't properly thread the hole, but the screw went in tightly none the less. Hopefully it stays there!

3) As the instructions say, the little ignition switch spring will pop out when you pull the barrel out. Keep an eye out for it. What the guide doesn't say is where it goes once you reinstall. It pops out so fast I had no idea where it came from. I figured it out and included a pic to show where it goes (the little arm it sits on will come off too, but only goes on one way).

4) CAREFULLY insert your key(s) into the slot while gripping the barrel (holding the brass teeth down). I stuck mine in initially and a pair of the brass teeth and springs popped out of the barrel. I found them, but when hobbit-size parts start flying around the garage I get nervous. I initially tried to reinsert them, but again the hobbit thing. I figured since the guide said you could remove the offending ones it was OK to leave them out, but I didn't want ALL of them coming out. Everything seems to be working OK, just be cautious when inserting the key and grinding the teeth.

Final thoughts: It was definitely a success, and helped to demystifiy another part of the Disco. Pay attention to what plugs go where (they only go one way, but a little forethought helps reassembly). Hopefully this fix lasts a while as the next stop would be new ignition since this one is worn pretty good.

 

Sorry, forgot one pic. This is the barrel after grinding. You can see the missing set of teeth.

 

Great writeup....

Question..... My daughter complains that when she uses her key, it wont turn sometimes and she cant start it. Is this the fix for that particular problem?

 

Yes, that was the issue I was having. I would put the key in and it wouldn't turn. I would have to jiggle it, take it out, put it back in, turn the steering wheel, etc. to finally get it to release and turn. I once spent about 10 minutes in my truck doing this. This fix has definitely helped. Of course after posting my writeup my key decided to stick a little - nothing major - a quick jiggle got past it. I suspect that these key/ignition sets get worn and there's only so much that can be done. That said, the problem is many times less than before and well worth the minimal time invested.

 

Question for you guys...are the key's you're using "new", or at least somewhat newer than you D2's original keys?

While going this route to address a sticking key is certainly an option, I ask because what I've found is that most of the problem you've described above (sticking key, having to 'jiggle' the ignition) is more a problem of the key not being properly cut. I had exactly the problems you've described, but having more than a passing familiarity with locks, I found a good locksmith and he was able to cut 3 perfect keys me. All for less than $10 including the blanks (which he actually had in stock).

This is still a great write-up...