Actually if you don't want to bother with ****ing up the ignition switch you can just bang out the shear bolts and take it to a locksmith and get rebuilt. At my former dealer we stopped wasting the time getting a lock for it cause it took six weeks. Not smart if the key is broken or frozen up. Takes ten minutes to get out, time for the locksmith to rebuilt it and then ten minutes to put back in. Best part is you can get new keys and be all set.

No fear of vehicle getting stolen.

 

I just did this..... What a pain in the private parts...

This is delicate work! Take your time. Be careful and pay attention. Definitely take apart the core at the kitchen table. All kind of little parts fall out.

I basically did this entire job 3 times. After I put it all back together again, the key wouldnt turn. I ground them done on the power grinder.... No turn. Finally I figured it was a couple of the lock sets. I took out two pair and it was much improved.

Keeping my fingers crossed

 

When I got my Disco, the ONLY key that the OP had was one that was twisted and had a fracture. I tried to get it traced, but it was too far gone. I spent the $35 at the dealer to get a NEW CUT key (not traced). I still had problems.

 

Wanted to say thanks for the write up. Did this to our D1 after the key broke off in the ignition due to everything inside being worn out. Had a new key made for $7, filed down all of the tumblers that were causing the issue, put it back together and it works perfect!

 

Can the electrical contacts be replaced without having to buy the tumbler and all? If so, anyone know where one can buy these contacts?

 

First post here, but had to join after finding this answer!

Found the forum searching for this problem on my Disco I. Worked as Advertised, but I'll add my experience:

1) I was able to use my dremel to cut slots into the screws without having to chisel. made screw removal/re-install pretty easy.

2) I decided to remove most of the tumblers (and their springs) in the middle and just leave some in the front and back. (less grinding) seems to work fine and still guides the key in very easily.

3) I used the dremel for grinding the tumblers as well.

4) I ran the truck using the "screwdriver" method for a few days. As there are some exposed electrical contacts, I chose to cover them with electrical tape.

5) I only hooked up the larger white connector (for a key light) and not the small black connector - (I thought the black connector was for the key buzzer) This way I did not have to re-install the spring and arm for the key buzzer. I'm not sure this is correct, but everything seems to work, and there is no buzzer sound. (of course my buzzer may be broken as well)

Only 1 time did the key "stick" at all and that was because there was pressure on the steering wheel lock, moving the wheel to relieve the pressure instantly fixed the issue. (had to wiggle key, wheel, and everything else in the past to get the key to move)


That's about it - I'll write back if I experience any issues.

Thanks again to everyone for their help!!

 

I have a couple of notes to add based on my experience:

1) I removed the binnacle trim as well and used a pair of Vise-Grips to get the screws out by clamping down vertically and turning like a screw driver. Worked well, seems like less hassle than using a chisel punch or dremel to slot them.

2) In the process of grinding the cylinder and tumblers got all seized up, so I had to remove each one individually and de-burr everything. If I were to do this again I'd use a sharpie marker to highlight the high spots, remove the tumblers carefully keeping track of their station, grind away the highlighted area, then reinstall.

3) If you're simply adding a newly cut key to the quiver (P.O. only furnished one) and are doing this to have a usable back-up, be sure to test the original key. I reassembled the lock only to discover only my new key worked, so I had to remove and repeat the process on a couple of tumblers.

As an added bonus, if I ever wanted to steal a Disco, I now know how easy it is! However, I can barely afford the one I've got.

 

On the 3rd picture down it show the black housing with wires on it. Anyone know how to take it a part to get to contacts. I need to clean them so ignition mechanism makes good contacts

I know the two phillips screws on each side take the housing out I need to get to contacts inside.

 

I removed all the plastic and started to follow the steps, but the entire barrel assembly came out without any further removal of anything else?? I am assuming this is not good, as the key would just spin around in the ignition just prior to me finding this post, so am I able to just grind down the barrel & reassemble it, or do I have more of a problem than the original post here covered? I have not removed the ignition switch from the left side yet and before I get any further I would appreciate any insight from the experts please. I can't post pics yet, but as soon as I'm able to I've already taken some of what I'm working with thus far.

 

It sounds like the rivet pin (picture 5 of the original post) has broken or departed the assembly somehow. As a result the cylinder wasn't all the way home and did not engage with the mechanism in the ignition housing that unlocks the column and actually turns the plastic ignition switch.

If you continue removing the ignition housing and remove the plastic ignition switch you'll see what I'm talking about. I would caution you to take the cylinder inside or put it in a ziplock bag or something before the tumblers and springs start disappearing.