:) I'm back in work, but still having brake issues
#1
12-28-2012, 04:56 PM
:) I'm back in work, but still having brake issues
Hope everyone had a wonderful yet safe Christmas! Just got a call today and I start work next week. But my brake situation has not improved much despite all the $$$ and effort. Any inputs suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always.
Disco 2 Brake Failure Troubleshooting - YouTube
Disco 2 Brake Failure Troubleshooting - YouTube
#4
12-28-2012, 05:35 PM
Sounds like air. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? There will be an amazing amount of air in it if you didn't. You can disconnect the lines at the MC and then plug the holes with your fingers to get some more air out but it sounds like you just need to keep bleeding. From what everyone else has posted about brake flushes, it will take 2 quarts.
#6
12-28-2012, 06:38 PM
Sounds like air. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? There will be an amazing amount of air in it if you didn't. You can disconnect the lines at the MC and then plug the holes with your fingers to get some more air out but it sounds like you just need to keep bleeding. From what everyone else has posted about brake flushes, it will take 2 quarts.
#7
12-28-2012, 09:46 PM
Try this approach: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...trouble-23573/
You can also use the plastic caps that came with the master cylinder to plug the holes.
You can also use the plastic caps that came with the master cylinder to plug the holes.
#8
12-28-2012, 11:52 PM
That is a good comprehensive video.
Just watched it.
Brakes hard to press - vacuum servo sounds bad.
Hopefully the vacuum line is hooked to the manifold and not leaking.
If your brakes are really full of air and the engine is running
and there is good vacuum to the servo - then I would think that noise is normal
as you are using the power assist heavily of the unit and a lot of vacuum is getting used up which is stored in the unit.
Just watched it.
Brakes hard to press - vacuum servo sounds bad.
Hopefully the vacuum line is hooked to the manifold and not leaking.
If your brakes are really full of air and the engine is running
and there is good vacuum to the servo - then I would think that noise is normal
as you are using the power assist heavily of the unit and a lot of vacuum is getting used up which is stored in the unit.
#9
12-29-2012, 02:19 AM
That is a good comprehensive video.
Just watched it.
Brakes hard to press - vacuum servo sounds bad.
Hopefully the vacuum line is hooked to the manifold and not leaking.
If your brakes are really full of air and the engine is running
and there is good vacuum to the servo - then I would think that noise is normal
as you are using the power assist heavily of the unit and a lot of vacuum is getting used up which is stored in the unit.
Just watched it.
Brakes hard to press - vacuum servo sounds bad.
Hopefully the vacuum line is hooked to the manifold and not leaking.
If your brakes are really full of air and the engine is running
and there is good vacuum to the servo - then I would think that noise is normal
as you are using the power assist heavily of the unit and a lot of vacuum is getting used up which is stored in the unit.
So how to i determine for sure if the servo is in fact bad? In the video the engine was on so is there still hope for it? I will try to push out the remaining air from the master cylinder tomorrow. I suppose its worth noting that the entire bleeding process probably only took an hour or less. Maybe 10 minutes per wheel (most of the time was spent loosening tight bleed screws on the rear calipers). I've bleed a brake system before so my cousin and I were not fully sure how long we should bleed each caliper or the master cylinder.... Not gonna have any help tomorrow so hopefully I can find a way to flush out the air from the MC alone...
#10
12-29-2012, 10:49 AM
You need to totally bleed it first so that there are only a few inches of pedal travel ever.
I have used a hose on each fitting into a jar of brake fluid.
Then you pump the pedal 10 times or so for each wheel
and keep the nut open.
The idea here is that when it does suck a little back up the linke - it is sucking on brake fluid which is sucking up hill and therefore will effectively block air and speed up the bleeding process.
I have used a hose on each fitting into a jar of brake fluid.
Then you pump the pedal 10 times or so for each wheel
and keep the nut open.
The idea here is that when it does suck a little back up the linke - it is sucking on brake fluid which is sucking up hill and therefore will effectively block air and speed up the bleeding process.