I was concerned about the flagging, that's why I asked about what happens with a retest.

I will say that it took forever for the evap code to clear on my old Cabrio. What's the specific code that is getting hung up. I wonder if dropping a different evap valve in might help?

 

No code, it's the readiness monitor. I called Autologic again and they said that it's being "stubborn", but 100% sure it will clear, but not sure when.

Other option is swap in new ECU, sync with the car, then drive around until all the codes clear. But no guarantee on how long that will take.

In at the 1000 mile mark now.

 

I just went through this here in mass and it took about week of driving and only about 200 miles to get all the monitors to register "ok" after a code resest, the evap monitor was the last holdout, I had read that the evap test only happens when the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full so keep it there and it should clear faster. Here in mass you can have 2 incomplete monitors and still pass emissions if its a certain age, mine is a 2000.

 

Sold the car, got the DMV to give him a month pass to drive in order to clear it.

He read an article in DiscoWeb the night before about a guy that took 2000 miles to get ready.

I will keep this thread posted once it clears for him.

 

Good deal!

1000 miles driving and 24 hours later... you gotta be wired.

Glad it had a good ending I was expecting "sleep deprived man crashes truck into DMV and urinates on test equipment!"

 

I don't want my urine anywhere near test equipment!

Yeah, it's all good,but I have slept like s**t. Built another 03 with a 2001 RR 4.6 for my dad who is picking up Sunday(flying in from NM and driving home), started making a ticking noise on Tuesday! This was after an almost grenaded diff. Was told by a mechanic it was a slipped liner.

I'll start another thread,but don't EVER use aftermarket rocker arms!

Stressful week.

 

When it rains it pours!

Did you put a grey 180 thermostat in? My old 03 had a tick and the grey thermostat cured it completely. I'm sure it was a sleeve but, running a little cooler must have been just enough to stop it.

And about your rockers...I was just about to order new rockers and shafts from turner for an engine I'm building for another 03. They sell cheaper even after shipping than anything I see in the states. All they have though is steel rockers so I was going to use those even though some people say steel rockers wear quicker than aluminum. I'll have to read up some more on that.
I kinda doubt my truck will be around long enough to wear steel rockers out.
Besides, turner is an engine builder and they say it's what they use on their new engines.

Which did you use? and what's the problem? I'll look for your other thread.
I need to be well informed before I start down that road with the rockers.

 

Cheap rocker arms and shafts in the states:

http://www.rovahfarm.com/DiscoIEnginePage2.htm

Even cheaper in the UK:

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced...&x=-160&y=-219

I've ordered from them quite a bit. Sometimes they are a little slow processing a shipping quote, but their shipping has always been FAST and reasonably priced.

 

I've bought some parts from rovahfarm, their's are $260 + shipping for rockers and arms and I'm not sure who made the parts. I hate it when sellers don't say who makes the parts.

Island 4x4 is only $105 + shipping for the same parts but they sell alot of britparts so, I try to stay away from that stuff.

Turner is $192 + shipping for the same parts and I'm not sure who makes theirs either, but they said it is what they use in their engines.
I didn't ask the brand but will.

I know turners conrod bearings are trimetals from king isreal. I asked about those and I like bearings from king. It's what they use.

I've looked around at other sellers... wondering if the federal mogul rod bearings are made by king.

alot of the bearings are coming from india now and they are crap.. I don't want those for any price.

 

I'm just making assumptions, but here goes: It looks to me like the steel arms are britpart. I'm guessing that whoever sells steel arms are selling the same ones. The alloy arms don't list the brand, but I'm guessing that means they AREN'T britpart, because they don't seem to be scared of saying so when they are. I'd guess allmakes or similar. Idk.